Sanguis Owner/winemaker Matthias Pippig is restless. Like Manfred Krankl at Sina Qua Non, with whom Pippig worked at LA’s famous La Brea Bakery, Pippig never makes the same wine twice, and each vintage features new wines and his own original artwork. “Our wines attempt to express both the unique characteristics of the sites we farm, as well as our personal stylistic preferences”, he says. “We seek to combine power and richness with balance and finesse, and the inherit beauty that the fruit possesses when harvested at optimal ripeness. There are no formulas and no sequels. Each wine is a unique blend, so made to coax the best out of the ingredients with which the vintage provides us.”

He takes a contrarian view on the au courant concept on non-interventionist winemaking as well, saying, “It is the winemaker‘s job to create beauty through intervention,” and arguing that nearly every decision a winemaker makes - from deciding to harvest to determining the barrel regimen - qualifies as intervening.

Sanguis’ first vintage was 2004, and they produced a scant 275 cases of two Syrah-based wines. They’ve since added Grenache, Cab, Viognier, Roussanne, Malvasia Bianca, and Chardonnay to the mix. The wines are ripe and bold, and often see extended barrel aging. Their fruit is sourced from some of the Central Coast’s best vineyards, including Bien Nacido and Watch Hill, and most are farmed using biodynamic methods.

2005 Kubernetes - $80
Winemaker’s notes: “An experiment, and a long journey toward a predermined goal (great wine), Kubernetes spent 42 months in barrel to resolve its substantial tannin structure into a finely woven, silky tappistry. Somewhat unusual for us, the wine is single varietal, single clone, from a single vineyard that we love: Watch Hill.” 100% Syrah.

Robert Parker: Soft, ripe, and fleshy with tangy acidity as well as complex aromatics of smoke, soy, and game-like characteristics interwoven with scents of black cherries and black currants. The tannins are velvety, and the wine is supple, medium to full-bodied, fleshy, and delicious. 90 points

Stephen Tanzer: Inky ruby. Highly perfumed bouquet of spicy blackberry and blueberry, with smoky herbal and floral notes and a hint of cured meat. Chewy, firmly structured dark berry preserve flavors are supported by chunky tannins that give the wine a slight dry edge. The smoky note resounds on the long, sappy, vaguely sweet finish. 90 points

2006 As The Crow Flies - $77
Winemaker’s notes: “The wine’s character was achieved by taking some of every nook and cranny that we farm here in the Santa Ynez Valley; a true representation of the valley and of the vintage. This wine was made to be a long distance runner and while it is beginning to show some of it’s stuff, much remains hidden – so a long decantation (or extensive cellaring) is highly recommended.”

Robert Parker: Mostly Syrah with about 3% Viognier, the wine has a floral, sexy bouquet, with plenty of sweet cassis, smoked meats, and a little bit of kirsch as well. Lots of baby fat, full body, an expansive, almost decadent mouthfeel, and tremendous persistence characterize this wine. It should drink nicely for a decade or more. 92+ points.

Stephen Tanzer: Classic syrah aromas of dark berries, smoke, cured meat, olive and violet. Deep, succulent blackberry and blueberry flavors are complemented by candied violet and tobacco qualities, with supple tannins gaining strength with air. Finishes with good grip and a whiplash of sweet berry fruit. This should age slowly. 91 points

2006 Novillero - $70
Winemaker’s notes: “Novillero is what the Spaniards call a rookie bullfighter. As the wines of the first two vintages were made entirely from Syrah, this was our first venture into a bit of Grenache – in other words, our rookie year with that varietal. Though the name is Spanish, the blend clearly got its inspiration more from the Rhone Valley – and with small amounts of both, Grenache and Viognier is a bit of a play between north and south….”

Robert Parker: An even more powerful wine at 15.6% alcohol, it is another intriguing blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Viognier, which gives uplift to the spicy, meaty aromatics, which also include creme de cassis, blackberry, licorice, and earth. It is a powerful wine, layered, extravagantly rich, and dark ruby/purple in color, as one might expect. This wine should drink beautifully for 7-10 years. 93 points

Stephen Tanzer: Smoky blackberry and boysenberry aromas are complicated by beef jerky, dried flowers and baking spices. Fleshy and sweet, offering ripe, focused flavors of dark fruit preserves, cherry-cola and Indian spices; a velvety texture; and a late-arriving floral pastille quality. Silky tannins build through the sweet finish, adding structure to this luscious fruit bomb. 90 points

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