This month, we present another iconic California Chardonnay-  2008 Kistler Chardonnay Durrell Vineyard. 

As Robert Parker once said:  "If the Kistler Winery could be magically transported to the middle of Burgundy's Cote d'Or, it would quickly gain a reputation as glorious as any producer of Burgundy Grand Crus." 

Kistler Vineyards is a small, family established and privately owned and operated winery dedicated to the vinification of world class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir using old world Burgundian techniques applied to new world vineyards.  Both their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are crafted utilizing classic Burgundian techniques.
The wines are produced solely by native yeasts, and barrels are crafted from French oak that is aged to their specifications. All wines are bottled unfiltered and unfined.

Kistler Chardonnay is barrel fermented in subterranean, gravel floor barrel rooms, and is aged sur lie in those same barrels, remaining for eleven to eighteen months until bottling.

Durell Vineyard lies at the southwestern end of Sonoma Valley, near the Carneros appellation. Only 10 miles away, the San Pablo Bay provides reliable cooling breezes most afternoons throughout the growing season. These breezes and the frequent fogs that spill over the hills from the west keep the vineyard cool and allow the slow ripening that results in full yet finely-flavored Chardonnay. The soil is very shallow, which stresses the vines and produces a particularly intensely flavored wine. In 1993 the original owner, Ed Durell and vineyard manager Steve Hill planted some particularly well-sited new vineyard sections especially for Kistler Vineyards in an undeveloped part of the property. These sites consist of well-drained, west facing hillside. Our 1994 planting propagates a shy-bearing California Heritage clone of Chardonnay which we have planted at all of our Chardonnay vineyards. This clone, has done very well in these varied locations, producing its signature small bunches of very flavorful, small berries at production levels of 2½ to 3½ tons per acre. This is the selection of chardonnay that we now use for all our new plantings. In 1998 the property was sold to Bill Price who continues to work closely with us in producing the finest chardonnay possible from this excellent site.

Pale yellow. Tight, sharply focused aromas of crushed rock and roasted grains. Conveys a strong impression of site character. The palate offers outstanding drive and energy, and finishes with a spicy persistence and precision.

Parker 93+:  "Subtle smoke, orange marmalade, quince, white peach and brioche aromas emerge from the light gold-hued 2008 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard. This cuvee is made in a medium to full-bodied, slightly restrained, tighter style than the Dutton Ranch or the McCrea Vineyard, but it reveals considerable potential.

Not only have the 2008s lived up to or exceeded their potential from last year’s barrel tastings, the 2009s appear to be fabulous as well. Of course, 2008 was a much more challenging vintage and 2009 was a cool year, much like 2005, with slightly lower alcohols and higher yields than the short crop of 2008. All of the 2009 Chardonnays finished with around 14+% alcohol levels and had more minerality than usual. Kistler’s bottled 2008s were all concentrated. The 2008 Chardonnays have the potential to last even longer than the 2009s given the fact that they are even more concentrated than those wines."

RECIPE:  Quick Spaghetti Carbonara - serves four

White Burgundy and creamy pasta dishes are a marriage made in heaven. here the pancetta acts as a perfect foil to the Kistler. 

    1 pound Spaghetti
    2 large egg yolks
    1/2 cup heavy cream
    1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
    6 ounces thickly sliced pancetta, cut into 1/8-inch dice
    2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
    1 cup freshly grated Reggiano Parmigiano cheese (3 ounces), plus more for serving
    Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
    Freshly ground pepper

    In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the spaghetti until just al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.
    Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks and cream. In a large, deep skillet, heat the oil. Add the pancetta and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until crisp, 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until golden, 1 minute.
    Add the spaghetti to the skillet. Cook over low heat, tossing, until coated. Slowly add the reserved pasta cooking water and beaten egg yolks. Toss until coated with a creamy sauce, about 1 minute. Add the 1 cup of Parmesan and the nutmeg; season with pepper. Transfer to bowls and serve, passing extra Reggiano.

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