This month, we present an iconic California Chardonnay from the Green Valley sub-appellation of the Russian River Valley - Paul Hobbs Walker Station, one that sadly will no longer be produced, as the vines were pulled up in 2008.

Walker Station Vineyard produces a rich, elegant, layered chardonnay with crisp acidity and clean minerality. The wine is pale straw in color and offers luxuriant aromas of fresh orange blossom, stone fruit and custard. On the palate, focused flavors of ripe red apple, toasted brioche and citrus zest unfold in well-delineated layers, joined by subtle notes of tropical fruits, cedar and lemon over the long, refreshing finish.

The 2005 got 94 points from Parker:  "Two thousand-five was a strong vintage for California Chardonnay, and Hobbs’ 2005 Chardonnay Walker Station (33 year old vines) exhibits a light gold color with greenish undertones, followed by caramelized apricot, poached pear, and roasted nut-like aromas.  ....Impressive, pure, rich, medium to full-bodied..."

It offers notes of unbuttered popcorn, white peaches, quince, mango, and brioche in a full-bodied, fresh, lively yet substantial style. With terrific intensity as well as a long (over 35 seconds) finish, this brilliant Chardonnay should evolve for 7-8 years.

Recipe: 
Chicken Kiev

This recipe is adapted from Simon Hopkinson’s "The Prawn Cocktail Years". Make sure your breadcrumbs aren’t too fine; a little texture is what you’re after. Perfect with the Hobbs Chardonnay: low brow meets high brow!

Serves 12

1/2 pound unsalted butter, softened
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/3 cup each of finely chopped curly parsley, French tarragon and chives
1½ lemons, finely grated rind and juice only
3 tablespoons Pernod
12 skinless chicken breasts, wingbones attached
1/2 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
4 eggs, lightly beaten
6 cups fresh sourdough breadcrumbs
2 heads butter lettuce, outer leaves discarded, cut into twelve thin wedges
4 tablespoons lemon oil
1/2 lemon, juiced

* Process butter, garlic, herbs, rind, juice and Pernod in a food processor until smooth and combined (4-5 minutes), season to taste and process to combine, then refrigerate until butter starts to firm (10-15 minutes). Divide into 12 and form each piece into a 6cm-long cylinder, then refrigerate until firm (10-15 minutes).
* Meanwhile, working with one chicken breast at a time, place between two pieces of plastic wrap and pound gently with a meat mallet to flatten slightly. You don’t need to bash the hell out of it, just gently increase its girth by about 30 per cent. Make a small cut in the side of the thickest part of each breast and insert a portion of herb butter into each.
* Place flour, egg and breadcrumbs into separate shallow trays and dip each breast in flour, then egg, then crumbs, shaking off excess between layers. Press crumbs onto breast to help them stick. Layer crumbed breasts between plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes (or up to 2 hours).
* Preheat oven to 325F and preheat canola oil in a deep-fryer or deep-sided saucepan to 375F. Deep-fry chicken in batches until golden and cooked through (8-10 minutes), drain, place on a rack in oven while cooking remaining chicken. This ensures crumbs remain crisp but chicken doesn’t overcook.
* To serve, cut each breast diagonally and serve on a warm plate with a wedge of butter lettuce.  Toss lemon oil and lemon juice together, and dress greens,

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