A new year brings a new varietal - this month, we travel to Valdorreas, in Galicia, Northwestern Spain, home of the fragrant Godello grape, the amazing Sil Valley (click here for some pictures of the incredibly steep vineyards), and this month's selection, As Sortes Godello. 
Valdeorras is located just east of Ribeira Sacra, with 3,700 acres of DO vineyards along the Sil valley, and is showing excellent potential for fine godello-based whites. Valdeorras, which could very well be Spain’s Burgundy, and is attracting more serious winemakers, such as Telmo Rodríguez and Rafael Palacios (brother of Priorat-La Rioja-Bierzo winemaking star, Álvaro Palacios). They have come here to make rich, fruity, but well-balanced wines laced with mineral finishes from old vine godello vineyards terraced on well-drained slopes; the results are reminiscent of the best white wines of France.
After making wines for several years in his family's Palacios Remondo winery in La Rioja Baja, including the very well-regarded Placet, one of the best 100% viura wines ever made in La Rioja, Rafael Palacios burst onto the Galician white wine scene in 2005 with As Sortes Godello white, which was in instant sensation. After a rumored family rift and, perhaps a desire to make his own mark free of the shadow of his superstar brother, Álvaro, Rafael moved to Valdeorras (Palacio's cousins are also making wine there and in neighboring Bierzo) and procured some high altitude, terraced old vines godello from which he crafts his signature.
Rafael Palacios began his wine project in Valdeorras in 2004, purchasing mature vineyards of the indigenous Godello variety from older local growers. His previous experience in the area as a consultant had motivated him to try and recuperate the unique sub-zone of the Bibei Valley in the Municipality of O Bolo.
The extreme topography and the low productivity of the soil had led to the almost complete abandonment of grape production in this tiny but historic county, cultivated traditionally on terraces. The predominance of small plots is the result of inheritances drawn by lot, often out of a hat, called “Sorte” in the Galician language and the inspiration for the name As Sortes.
As Sortes is cask fermented in foudres and the wine is left on the lees for several months in the cask. The resulting wine is Burgundy weight, richly fruity, mineral-laced, leesy and without marked oak characteristics, but early on it exhibits a slightly cloudy, too-deep green-gold color. One hopes that Palacios will master his superb godello raw material, because tastings of his first efforts show the potential to make one of the great white wines of Europe.
92 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "Pale yellow. Spicy citrus, orange and melon aromas are brightened by zesty minerals; smells like Puligny-Montrachet. Suave white peach and pear flavors lead to firm lemon zest, spice and chalky minerality on the back end. Impressively elegant and clean wine with the balance to age for a couple of years."
RECIPE: Pan Roasted Salmon with Savoy Cabbage, Cider and Bacon Serves 4
* 1 pound Savoy cabbage, shredded
* 11/4 cups apple cider
* 1 vanilla bean, split
* 4 slices of bacon, cut into 1/2 -inch dice1 Granny Smith apple, skin left on and cut into 1/2 " dice
* 2 cups dry white wine
* 2 shallots, thinly sliced
* 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
* 8 whole black peppercorns
* 2 small tarragon sprigs, leaves removed, stems reserved
* 1/2 bay leaf
* 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
* 4 salmon fillets with skin (about 6 ounces each)
* Salt and freshly ground pepper
* 4 1/2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
* 1 tablespoon minced chives
In a medium saucepan of boiling salted water, blanch the cabbage until barely tender, about 30 seconds. Plunge the cabbage into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Drain and pat dry.
In a medium saucepan, boil the cider with the vanilla bean until reduced to 1/4 cup, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Preheat the oven to 400°.
Cook the bacon in small saute pan over low heat until crisp and most of the fat has been rendered. Drain the fat, and add the apple to the pan, and cook until the apple is tender. Transfer the bacon and apples to a plate, and keep warm.
Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine the wine with the shallots, vinegar, peppercorns, tarragon stems and bay leaf. Boil until the liquid has reduced to 2 tablespoons, about 12 minutes. Strain the sauce into a small saucepan.
In a large ovenproof skillet, heat the vegetable oil until almost smoking. Season the salmon with salt and pepper and set the fillets in the skillet, skin side up. Cook over moderately high heat until browned on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Turn the fillets and cook for 2 minutes longer, then transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the fish until just cooked through, about 6 minutes.
Bring the wine reduction to a simmer and swirl in 4 tablespoons of the cold butter until smooth. Remove from the heat, add the tarragon leaves and chives and season with salt and pepper. Reheat the reduced cider over moderately high heat; discard the vanilla bean. Add the cabbage, bacon and apple and cook until warmed through. Season with salt and pepper and swirl in the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of butter.
Spoon the cabbage onto 4 large warmed dinner plates. Set the salmon alongside, spoon the herb butter sauce on the fish and serve.
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