White Wine Club
Dec. '09 White Wine
This month, we present a choice of two bottlings from Kistler: 2006 Hudson Vineyards Carneros Chardonnay or the 2007 "Les Noisetiers" Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. Both are great examples of world-class cool climate California Chardonnay.
"The '06 Hudson garnered 93-95 points from Parker, who raved: "An exotic effort, the 2006 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard exhibits a light straw/green hue as well as boisterous, exuberant notes of buttery tropical fruit and smoky nuts. It is the most flamboyant and showy of these Chardonnays. Enjoy it over the next 4-6 years.
Another impressive of Chardonnay from Steve Kistler, whose 2006s are unmistakably Burgundian in their aromatics, textures, and flavor profiles. Kistler has given up on the highly fashionable Dijon clones, relying on old California clones, primarily old Wente selections. "
Les Noisetiers is a special blend of wines from great Sonoma Coast vineyards, 100% whole cluster pressed, 100% malolactic fermentation in 50% new French oak.
Rich, complex smoky aroma of perfect ripe fruit with a delicious noisette (hazelnut) note, in a pleasing, Meursault-like style. In the mouth the wine is very delicious, displaying intense, fruit flavors underpinned with toasty oak and smoky flavors. The crisp acidity in the wine highlights the delicious fruit and makes it an excellent accompaniment to a wide range of foods. It is richly textured with a long, lingering finish.
Recipe: Crumbed Veal with Lemon and Celery Root Salad Serves Four
The Kistler Chardonnays are the perfect match for the tangy, briny, rich and creamy flavors of this dish.
1/2 pound fresh breadcrumbs from sourdough bread
1 cup finely grated Reggiano Parmesan
1/3 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
4 veal medallions, bones removed
1/3 cup all-purpose flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1/3 cup olive oil
4 ounces butter, coarsely chopped
8 lemon wedges
I large celery root, peeled and cut into matchsticks, soaked in acidulated iced water for 5 minutes and drained
4 radishes, cut into matchsticks
2 tablespoons capers
2 tablespoons good-quality mayonnaise
1/3 cup each coarsely chopped chives and flat-leaf parsley
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Preheat oven to 200F.
Mix breadcrumbs, Reggiano and parsley in a bowl, season to taste, set aside.
Pound veal with a meat mallet between 2 sheets of baking paper to 1/4 inch thick. Place flour and eggs in separate bowls and, working with one piece of veal at a time, dip in flour, then egg, then breadcrumb mixture, pressing to coat.
Heat half the olive oil and butter in a non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat until butter foams. Add half the veal and cook, turning once, until golden (5-7 minutes each side for medium to medium-rare). Transfer to a baking paper-lined oven tray and keep warm in oven. Wipe pan with absorbent paper and repeat with remaining oil, butter and veal.
Meanwhile for celery root salad, combine the celery root, radishes, capers, mayonaisse, herbs and mustard in a bowl. Season to taste, and serve immediately with the veal and lemon wedges.