Welcome to the White Wine Club, where we'll explore great white wines from California and abroad. Our inaugural wine is one of my favorite California Chardonnays - 2007 Hirsch Vineyards Chardonnay, a chardonnay made by a unique method: Barrel Fermentation in Glass, Oak, and Stainless Barrels.
The barrel fermentation allows for extended lees contact, bringing richness to the wine, and the glass and stainless vessels allowing the wine to retain a crisp acidity and bright fruit.
According to David Hirsch
In 2005 we made a minuscule amount of chardonnay in glass containers. The result was startling: a chardonnay that put acids and a mineral mouth feel forward on the palate, with the varietal notes toward the back. Then we decided to make our chardonnay by four methods of fermentation and aging: glass, oak, and stainless steel fermentation and aging; plus aging on oak some of the wine fermented in stainless. We reserved fourteen gallons of each process prior to blending for bottling. The reserved wines were bottled by hand and are available in six packs that contain two bottles of the composite blend plus one bottle of each of the four methods. We found that blending of the four methods deepened the imprint of the site on the final wine."
The 2007 Hirsch Chardonnay is a product of four vinification processes: 1. Glass fermented and aged (138 gallons). 2. French oak fermented and aged (460 gallons). Total new oak comes to 15%. 3. Stainless steel fermented and aged (375 gallons). 4. Stainless steel fermented, aged in French oak (230 gallons)."
Straw colored with a green tinge. Fresh hay/biscuit top note followed by floral and toasty oak aromas. Bright and lively on the palate, in turn showing white stone fruit and an elegant minerality typical of the site. While quite rich in structure, the acid balance keeps this wine where it belongs: on the table with a wide variety of foods from fresh-shucked oysters to richer seafood to pork loin and veal. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Hirsch Vineyards was established in 1980 on a ridge overlooking the ocean at Fort Ross in Sonoma County, and was the first vineyard in the region planted to the production of premium pinot noir. From the start all efforts have been on the growing of fruit that makes wines profoundly characteristic of the site vintage after vintage.
Hirsch Winery was set up in 2002 specifically to learn more about the site. Here winemaking is an extension of viticulture: the link in the chain of winegrowing where grapes, the true wealth of the land, are transformed by native yeasts (the real winemakers!) and heat into wine. Due to the highly variegated soils and exposures of each vineyard and the constantly changing climate, the characteristics of the fruit will vary from vintage to vintage; but the underlying structural complexity is always there. We have learned to pay close attention to the individual sites and to taste the wines from every block (unblended until bottling) to permit the received information to guide us in our winemaking practices. We are constantly on guard that science, consultants, or techniques serve, not co-opt, our intentions.
This complex, unique site produces fruit and wines of unusual acidity and balance with a vintage specific concentration of pinot noir or chardonnay fruit. These are wines to be enjoyed now or laid down for future consumption.
Recipe (from Jeff): Stuffed Veal Breast Makes 10 servings (as part of larger meal)
* 2 cups diced (1/4 inch) marbled rye bread or a combination of rye and pumpernickel bread
* 1/2 cup diced (1/4 inch) celery
* 1/2 cup finely chopped onion
* 1 large garlic clove, chopped
* 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
* 3/4 teaspoon black pepper
* 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter
* 1/2 pound chicken livers, trimmed
* 2 large eggs
* 1/4 cup whole milk
* 1 (3 1/2-pound) piece boneless first- or brisket-cut veal breast (1 1/2 inches thick)
* 2 bacon slices
* 2 tablespoons olive oil
* 1 cup chicken stock or low-sodium broth
Make stuffing:
Toast bread cubes on baking sheet until dry and beginning to brown on edges, about 15 minutes. (Leave oven on.)
Cook celery, onion, garlic, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper in 2 tablespoons butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.
Heat remaining 2 tablespoons butter in cleaned skillet over high heat until foam subsides, then sauté livers with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper until edges are browned but livers are still pink inside, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and cool completely, then cut livers into 1/4-inch dice.
Whisk together eggs and milk in a large bowl, then stir in bread, vegetable mixture, livers, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Let stand at room temperature until bread has absorbed liquid, about 10 minutes.
Prepare veal:
Trim as much excess fat as possible from veal, then lay meat on a work surface. Beginning at center of thickest edge of veal breast, insert a large knife horizontally into center of veal and cut a pocket as evenly as possible, leaving a 1-inch border on 3 sides. Open pocket and sprinkle inside with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Fill pocket with stuffing and cover opening with bacon slices. Rub outside of veal with oil and sprinkle with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
Transfer veal to a small roasting pan. Add stock to pan, then cover pan tightly with foil and roast veal 1 1/2 hours.
Remove foil and baste veal with stock, then roast, uncovered, until well browned and thermometer inserted diagonally 2 inches into stuffing registers 190°F, about 1 hour more.
Transfer veal to a platter and let stand, loosely covered with foil, 20 minutes before slicing. Serve warm or at room temperature.
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