Here in the shops, we refer to the two different styles of Spanish wines as Old School  and New School, with New School being more fruit forward and more appealing to the California palate, wherein the old school wines' flavor profile are more integrated.  Nowhere is this dichotomy more apparent than in Rioja, where many new winemakers are experimenting with longer macerations, more reliance on new French oak and less adherence to the Joven/Crianza/Reserva/Gran Reserva system of classification.

This month, we're goin' Old School with some amazing Rioja's from Bodegas La Tierra Alta, one of the more traditional wineries in Rioja.  Your allocation is for one bottle each of Viña Arana Rioja Reserva 2004 and Viña Ardanza Rioja Reserva Especial 2001 (both are current releases).

La Rioja Alta was founded in 1890 in Haro, the capital of Rioja Alta, in close proximity to Lopez de Heredia and Marques de Riscal. The Bodega’s wines are all blends, there are no single vineyard wines, and all of the wines are produced from estate-grown grapes.

In what La Rioja Alta considers the greatest years (there have been three to date, 2001, 1973, and 1964) the wine is called Reserva Especial.

Viña Arana 2004 95% Tempranillo and 5% Mazuelo (aka Carignan) from the boroughs of Rodezno and
Labastida in Rioja Alta. 

Winery Notes:  Thanks to the good weather, the vines developed well throughout the year: correct setting, abundant vegetation, good health, suitable temperatures... The temperatures were lower than usual during the ripening process, with considerable differences between the daytime and night, so the process was slower. Our vineyards, with moderate production values, well ventilated and with excellent soil.

After fining,  it was transferred to three-year old American oak casks in March 2005, where it remained for 36 months, being racked by hand six times. After a few months in tanks, it was bottled in November
2008.

Cherry red color, clear and bright, with pink tones on the rim of the glass. Intense aromas of ripe berries against a balsamic background of cinnamon, vanilla and coconut. Medium-bodied to the palate, with silky, well integrated tannins in harmony with a tangy but smooth end that is typical of the brand. Elegant and pleasant aftertaste with mentholated and balsamic hints providing an excellent bouquet. A good length.

Viña Ardanza.  This is only the 3rd time that La Rioja Alta has created a Reserva Especial (1964 and 1973 previously), reflecting the high quality of the 2001 harvest in Rioja. 

94+ points Parker:  The current release is the 2001 Reserva Especial, a deeply colored wine with a lovely perfume of cinnamon, lavender, incense, balsamic, and black cherry. Medium-bodied, velvety-textured, and already complex, it will continue to evolve for another 5-10 years and offer a drinking window extending from 2016 to 2036. For those seeking immediate gratification, it has the virtue of being approachable now.

80% Tempranillo and 20% Garnacha  The 30-year old Viña Ardanza vineyard is at Fuenmayor, in Rioja Alta, where the Tempranillo originates. The Garnacha is from Rioja Baja.

Winery notes:  Low in quantity but exceptional in quality. The good temperatures favored the fruit’s development in excellent health. Together with grain size, this enabled us to make wines with intense colouring and complex aromas, ideal for long ageing process. The Garnacha in Rioja Baja was also intense in
color, with typical aromas and a balanced structure, suggesting singular
quality.

Alcoholic fermentation took place for 14 days in stainless steel tanks. The malolactic fermentation process was over in 21 days. After being transferred, the wine went into casks in March 2002. It spent 36 months in American oak an average of 3 years old, and was racked by hand on 6 occasions. Bottling took place in September 2005.

RECIPE: Veal Rib Chops with Roasted Potatoes and Buttermilk Blue Cheese Dressing  Serves 4

2 pounds fingerling potatoes, split in half lengthwise
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup crumbled buttermilk blue cheese
1/2 cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 bunch of fresh chives, minced
4 thick cut veal chops, about 3 pounds of total
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Leaves from 1 bunch  of fresh mint
Lemon wedges, for serving

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

In a large mixing bowl, toss the potatoes with 1/4 cup of oil and season generously with salt and pepper.  Spread the potatoes in a single layer on a baking sheet or in a roasting pan, cut side down, so the cut layer gets super crispy like a French fry.  Roast for 30 minutes, or until crispy.

 Put the cheese, buttermilk, and 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a small bowl and stir together with a fork, mashing a little to break up the cheese.  Season with the lemon juice, salt, pepper, and chives.

When the potatoes have cooked for 20 minutes, season the chops with salt and pepper.  Put a large saute pan over medium heat, add the olive oil, and heat until it begins to smoke.  Add the veal and saute until golden brown on the outside and just barely pink inside, 3 to 4 minutes on each side.

To serve, put a chop on each of 4 plates.  Put the potatoes in a bowl and drizzle with the dressing.  Add the arugula and mint and toss.  Set one portion of the potatoes on top of each chop.  Dust with black pepper and serve with lemon wedges.

• < Prev
• Next >