I have been raving for months about the wines of Raul Perez - the wild eyed winemaker from northwestern Spain who makes precise, amazing wines from native varietals.
His wines are made in miniscule quantities and even less makes it to this country. We are fortunate to have a good supply of his wines - beyond even what we are presenting to the club this month (so if you are interested in his other wines, let me know).
You have a choice of one of the following (you can buy more than one if you wish):
Quinta da Muradella Alanda Bianco is a blend of native grapes from Monterrei: Treixadura, Godello, and Dona Blanca. Bright, medium bodied and easy drinking. $34 40 six bottle cases imported..
Raul Perez Muti Albariño 100% Albarino and aged in egg-shaped barrels for eight months. This grape makes excellent wine but in Perez’s hands it is magically transformed into something sublime. Light
gold-colored, it gives up a splendid bouquet of mineral, lemon meringue, peach, and an assortment of tropical scents. On the palate vibrant acidity, intense flavors, and exceptional depth make for something special. Who knows whether it will evolve but drinking it now is a sure thing. 93 points Parker $42
Quinta da Muradella Alanda Tinto The 2006 Alanda is a blend of Mencia, Bastardo, and Tinta Fina
from several different parcels which spent 13 months in French oak. It has a splendid bouquet marked by mineral, chocolate covered cherries, and black raspberry. Ripe, concentrated, long, and pure, this singular expression need to be tasted for its uniqueness alone. Sadly, only 40 six bottle cases will make it to the US market.
Quinta da Muradella is where star vigneron Raul Perez makes his A Trabe wines. Grapes from this vineyard were once used to make Grappa but now serve a more noble purpose. A mere 1.2 hectares in size, the vineyard is now biodynamically farmed.
Raul Perez Ultreia St Jacques The least expensive wine in Raul Perez’s portfolio is the Ultreia St. Jacques, 100% Mencia from the D.O. of Bierzo. It received the same elevage as his more expensive wines - leading to a purple-colored wine with an exotic perfume of cedar, spice box, floral notes, and blueberry. Sweet, complex, and structured, this lengthy Mencia will evolve for 5-7 years and drink well through 2020 in the manner of a high-level red Burgundy. 93 points Parker, $35
For the Whites: Lemon Risotto with Spring Peas and Grilled Prawns Serves 4
Lemon risotto is a classic and versatile recipe. The creamy, lemon scented rice pairs beautifully with the sweet, buttery prawns.
2 quarts chicken stock
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 shallots, peeled and minced
1 pound arborio rice
2 teaspoons minced lemon zest
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups shelled fresh peas
12 large prawns in the shell
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1/4 cup chives, minced
In a large saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Reduce the heat and keep warm over low heat.
In a large pot, combine the butter and olive oil, and heat until the butter melts. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Add the rice, and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, for 7 to 10 minutes, until it turns white and opaque, and begins to stick to the bottom of the pot. Add the lemon zest and thyme leaves amd stir to combine.
Add the wine and stir for about 2 minutes, until nearly absorbed. Ladle about 1 cup of the warm stock into the rice. Cook, stirring often, until the stock is almost completely absorbed. Add more stock, a cup at a time, stirring gently until the broth is absorbed by the rice before adding the next cup. After about 15 minutes taste the rice. The rice should be firm, yet cooked through in about 20 minutes total cooking time. Stir the fresh peas into the rice.
Preheat a grill.
Using a sharp knife, cut through the shells to split the prawns in half lengthwise. Arrange them cut side up, and brush with melted butter and season with salt and pepper. Cook on the grill for about 3 to 4 minutes until lightly charred.
Stir the lemon juice and chives into the risotto. Taste and season the risotto with salt and pepper. Spoon the risotto onto warmed dinner plates and garnish each with the prawns
For the Reds: Duck in Brandy Sauce with Mushrooms and Truffles. Serves 4
I recently came across this recipe and thought it would be a perfect for this months club. The dish goes back to 1960s Spain, where it was served by Swiss chefs Otto and Urs Müller at El Bulli, the beachside shack in the coastal town of Roses they transformed into a legendary Michelin-starred restaurant.
1 1⁄4 cups Spanish brandy
1 can of truffle juice (4 ounces)*
1 2-lb. whole magret duck breast, cut lengthwise into 2 halves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
20 button mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and thinly sliced
1 3⁄4-oz. preserved black truffle, drained and very thinly sliced*
2 1⁄2 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons truffle butter*
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
Put brandy and truffle juice into a deep glass or ceramic dish, add duck, cover, and marinate in the refrigerator for 8 hours.
Preheat oven to 400°.
Heat a large skillet over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Remove duck from marinade, reserving marinade, and pat dry. Using a sharp knife, score duck skin in a crosshatch pattern. Season duck all over with salt and pepper, then cook in hot skillet, skin side down, until skin is golden brown, 8 - 12 minutes. Turn duck and cook for 1 minute more. Transfer duck, skin side up, to a shallow baking dish and set skillet aside. Roast duck for 3–4 minutes for rare. Remove duck from oven, loosely cover with foil, and set aside.
Pour off all but 5 tbsp. of the rendered duck fat from skillet and return skillet to medium-high heat. Add mushrooms to skillet and cook until golden, 8–10 minutes. Stir in reserved marinade and add truffles. Carefully ignite marinade with a kitchen match and allow flame to burn for 1 minute, then add stock. Increase heat to high and cook, stirring often, until sauce thickens, 20–25 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and whisk in truffle butter.
Divide mushrooms and sauce among four warm plates. Slice duck, divide evenly among the plates and garnish with parsley.
* fresh, canned and other specialty truffle products are available at some specialty stores or online at urbanitrufflesonline.com.
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