This month, we're trying two wines I discovered on my recent trip to Spain with Olé Imports, both from Rioja, and both made by superstar winemaker David Sampedro.  David is stand-out among the many young & talented winemakers currently driving the Spanish wine scene.

Ole Imports, run by two young guys, are geniuses at flushing out the next great wines, winemakers and wineries.

The 2007 Traza GRA2 Sin-Ley is 100% Graciano, normally a blending grape occasionally making an appearance in wines from Rioja. Purple-colored, it offers a room-filling nose of spice box, earth notes, black raspberry, and black cherry. This leads to a dense, structured wine with layers of ripe, savory fruit, a lengthy finish, and 2-3 years of aging potential.   Like all of the wines in the Sin-Ley series, it was fermented and aged in stainless steel.  Spicy on the palate with enough structure to evolve for two years, this tasty effort can be enjoyed through 2014.

Calma is a new project for Sampedro, 90% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, all from select vineyards in Rioja Alavesa.   This is one of the finest values I have ever tasted in Rioja! Layers of flavors and an elegant texture lead to a balanced finish that is softened by oak. As you might guess Calma means Calm in English. Calma is produced in and around the town of Hormilla in the La Rioja region of Spain. Bodegas D.S. Londono encompasses 900 acres of vines. The vineyards are spread throughout the sub-regions of Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa. The moderately warm days and cool nights of this Continental Atlantic climate forces the grapes to ripen slowly, resulting in wines that are fresher, more aromatic and with greater fruit flavors. The geographically diverse vineyards contain 3 different types of soil. The first type is thin red clay, providing ripe silky tannins and red berry flavors; the second is mostly sandy limestone with small particles of thin clay, resulting in darker colored wines, with intense aromatics of red berry jam and prunes. Making wines with good fruit density. The third is the least frequent here alluvial sediment, resulting in low yields, giving good flavor concentration and a sensation of freshness. 

Calma is a new wine being produced at the same estate that Cortijo wine is produced. We have been fans of Cortijo for many years. Sampedro recently took over winemaking duties.

RECIPES
For the Traza:  Barramundi with Braised Oxtail and Root Vegetable Mash Serves Four

In Australia, Barramundi is an iconic table fish revered across the whole country. It could be said that it is the quintessential Australian fish. The meaty, flaky, texture of the fish suits the richness of the braised oxtail meat. If you cannot find Barramundi, Cod or Halibut will work perfectly.

6 cups veal stock
4 barramundi fillets, about 7 ounces each
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 ounces unsalted butter
1 small garlic clove, finely chopped
1 thyme sprig
4 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley
2 1/2 pounds oxtail pieces
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves
2 thyme sprigs, leaves picked
4 fresh bay leaves
1 cupl tawny Port
6 white peppercorns
1 star anise
1 turnip, peeled and chopped
1 celery root, peeled and chopped
2 large parsnips, peeled and chopped
2 ounces unsalted butter
3/4 cup cream
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
salt and pepper to taste

Bring veal stock to the boil in a large saucepan, then simmer over medium heat until reduced to 3 cups (18-20 minutes).
Preheat oven to 250F.

Heat oil in a large saute pan, season oxtail, add to pan and cook over medium heat until fat renders and meat is golden brown (7-8 minutes), then transfer to a casserole. In the same pan, add vegetables and garlic and cook over medium heat until caramelised (5-6 minutes), then add to casserole. Add reduced veal stock, port and spices to casserole and bake, covered, until meat falls from the bone (1½-2 hours).
Remove oxtail, cool, then pick meat from bones (discard bones) and set aside. Strain cooking liquid through a fine sieve into a medium saucepan, cool, skim fat from surface and cook over medium heat until reduced to 2 cups and sauce is sticky (7-8 minutes). Add oxtail, season to taste and keep warm.
Increase oven to 325F.

Season the barramundi with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large oven-proof saute pan, add barramundi fillets skin-side down and cook over medium heat until skin is golden brown and crisp (4-5 minutes), transfer pan to oven and cook until just cooked through (6-7 minutes). Return to stove top, add butter, garlic and thyme, turn barramundi and cook over low heat, basting regularly with pan juices until skin is golden (2-3 minutes).

To make root vegetable mash, boil the turnip, parsnips and celery root in a saucepan of salted water for about 20 minutes or until tender. Drain in a colander and transfer back to saucepan. Warm the butter and cream together and mash with the root vegetables. Add the chopped parsley, and season generously.

Divide the root vegetable among 4 large dinner bowls, top with the braised oxtail, and place a barramundi fillet over the oxtails. Garnish with the parsley sprigs.

For the Calma: Rolled Lamb Breast with Red Cabbage and Spiced Broth Serves Six

Lamb breast is a fancy name for the belly, which braises superbly. To save time, the stuffing and rolling can be done several hours or even a day ahead.

2 ounces unsalter butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs
3 ounces almonds, roasted, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon oregano, finely chopped
1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
½ tsp ground cinnamon
2 boneless lamb breasts (about 4 pounds)
1½ tablespoons olive oil
2 cups chicken stock
4 whole allspice berries
1 cinnamon stick
2 ounces un-salted butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
3 cups red cabbage, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/4 cup dried cranberries
1/2 cup dry red wine
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

Melt the butter in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until soft (5-6 minutes). Add breadcrumbs, almonds, herbs and ground cinnamon, stir to combine and season to taste. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
Preheat the oven to 250F.

Place breasts skin-side down on a work surface and spread over cooled stuffing evenly. Starting at the longest sides roll up each breast and tie securely at 1 inch intervals with kitchen string.
Heat olive oil in a large heavy-based casserole over high heat. Add one lamb breast and cook, turning frequently until golden brown (5-6 minutes). Remove and repeat with remaining lamb. Return lamb to casserole with chicken stock and spices, bring to a simmer, cover, transfer to oven and cook until lamb is tender (2½ -3 hours).

Meanwhile, heat butter over medium heat until just foaming. Add the shallot and cook a few minutes until softened. Add the cabbage, dried cranberries and brown sugar and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted and tender (8-10 minutes). Add the wine and vinegar, and cook until almost dry. Season to taste.

Remove the string from the lamb, slice and serve immediately with the sautéed red cabbage and the broth from cooking the lamb.

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