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June '09 Selections

I'm back from my most excellent Spanish wine trip, where I discovered some amazing wines that we'll be bringing to the club over the next few months.

This month, we present Heredad de Candela HC Monastrell and Juan Rojo Toro.

HC Monastrell is from Yecla, where the Candela Family  owns 800 acres of some of the oldest Monastrell (Mourvèdre) vineyards.  Yecla's higher altitude delivers cooler temperatures than the neighboring Jumilla DO, helping to produce wines that are more aromatic and with a fresher mouthfeel.  The family owns a state of the art winery, and all fruit is estate produced.  This 100% Monastrell was aged for 9 months in 500 liter new French oak barrels. Dark ruby colored, the wine offers us an exotic perfume of woody smoke and blueberries.  Ripe, sweet and complex, this is what southeastern Spanish mourvèdre is all about! (90 pts Parker).

Juan Rojo is produced by Bodegas Matarredonda in the DO of Toro (province of Zamora).  Founded in 2000 by Alfonso Rojo, who purchased two contiguous ancient, pre-phylloxera  vineyards - Libranza (80-140 years old) and Juan Rojo (80 years old).  He built a state of the art winery and hired Rosa Zarra as winemaker.

The '04 Juan Rojo was aged for 8 months in French and American oak.  Opaque, the nose explodes with spice, mineral and blackberry. This is a full bodied and structured wine with layers and layers of fruit, intense flavors and aging potential.  (91 points, Parker)

Recipes
For the Monastrell:   Marmitako (Basque Stew of Tuna, Potatoes, Peppers and Onions)
Here is a classic Spanish dish that pairs tuna with three kinds of peppers. I think peppers, potatoes, and the smokey paprika calls out for a red wine such as this month's Monatrell from Barrrahonda. This is rich and hearty food to be enjoyed on those nights when the fog blows in and it feels cold and damp.

4 to 6 servings

• 2 pounds boneless, skinless yellowfin tuna fillets (at least 1 inch thick)
• 2 pounds russet potatoes, boiled and peeled
• 2 medium green bell peppers, roasted (see NOTE)
• 1 1/4 cups Spanish extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
• 2 slices day-old bread, preferably country-style
• 1 pound plum tomatoes (5 to 6)
• 3 cups thinly sliced onions (about 2 large onions)
• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1/4 cup cognac
• 1 small guindilla chili pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped (may substitute your favorite small hot chili pepper)
• 2 teaspoons Spanish smoked paprika
• 2 to 3 teaspoons salt, or to taste
• 4 cups water
• Chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Directions:

Cut the tuna into 1-inch cubes; place on a plate, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use. Use your hands to break the boiled, peeled potatoes into large chunks and place in a large bowl. Cut the roasted and skinned bell peppers into thin strips and reserve.

Line a plate with paper towels.

Heat 1 cup of the olive oil in a medium saucepan until it registers 300 degrees on a candy thermometer. Add the bread and fry for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until golden. Use tongs to transfer the bread to the prepared plate to drain.

Slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise; discard the seeds. Place a large-holed grater over a large mixing bowl. Rub the cut sides of the tomatoes over the grater until all of the flesh has been grated into pulp. Discard the skins.

Heat the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the onions, roasted bell pepper strips and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, until the onions are golden brown. Add the wine and cognac; cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until the alcohol evaporates. Then add the tomato pulp, guindilla pepper and smoked paprika, stirring to combine. Cook for 10 minutes, then season with 1 to 2 teaspoons of the salt. Add the potato chunks and fried bread, folding them into the mixture; the bread will break up eventually. Cook for 2 minutes, then add the water; cover and cook for 15 minutes, gently shaking the pot occasionally to prevent the potatoes from sticking.

Meanwhile, season the chilled tuna cubes with 1 teaspoon of salt, then add the tuna to the pot, stirring to combine. Cover and cook for 3 minutes. The tuna should be juicy inside and barely cooked through. Remove the pot from the heat and adjust seasoning as necessary. Garnish servings with chopped parsley and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve hot.

Note: Place them on a piece of aluminum foil under the broiler, about 4 inches from the flame. Let the peppers become blistered and charred on one side, then rotate so a new side is exposed. Continue until most of the skin is charred. Don't worry if the peppers lose their form. Place the peppers in a resealable plastic bag or a bowl covered with plastic wrap and let sit for 15 minutes. When the peppers are cool enough to handle, remove the skin.

For the Toro:  Breast of Duck with Calanda Peach and Pepper Sauce (Pechuga de pato con salsa de pimiento y melocotones de Calanda)

While I've not seen any Calanda peaches in the  area, this recipe will work fine with the yellow varieties we have in our markets. Duck with fruit is classic and an added depth of flavor comes from the piquillo peppers.

Servings: 4
  • 4 duck breasts
  • Salt
  • Pepper
Peach and pepper sauce:
  • 1 lb fresh yellow peaches
  • 6 piquillo peppers
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1/2 cup concentrated chicken stock
  • 1 tsp butter
  • 1 tsp cornstarch
  • Salt
  • Pepper
Garnish:
  • 1 lb fresh peaches
  • 8 piquillo peppers

Make diagonal cuts in the skin of the duck breasts and season with salt and pepper. Fry, skin side down, in a hot frying pan for 2 minutes until the fat begins to run. Roast in the oven at 375 degrees F for 4 minutes. Remove, baste with the pan juices then roast for 2 more minutes and remove to a warm spot to rest. Drain on kitchen paper to remove any excess fat.

Garnish:

Blanch the 2 peaches, peel, slice and reserve.

Peach and pepper sauce:

Pour off all the fat from the pan, add the wine and deglaze, scraping the pan with a spatula. Cook until reduced by one quarter. Add the stock, after first setting aside a few spoonfuls, and the butter. Dissolve the cornstarch in the remaining stock then slowly pour into the boiling mixture to bind the sauce, stirring all the time. The sauce should be slightly thick. Wash and pit the peaches. Cut the flesh into pieces and add. Also cut the peppers into pieces and add, then boil the mixture a little. Blend the sauce and strain well. Re-heat until a good color. Stir in the peeled peaches and remaining piquillo peppers.To serve, pour a little sauce onto each plate and top with the duck cut in thick slices. Garnish with the peach slices and peppers.