This month, we return to Rioja to sample two wines from Bodegas Muga, arguably the most traditional of wineries in Rioja. When I visited there in '07, I was impressed by the onsite cooperage (the only winery-owned barrel making shop in Spain), and the respect for traditional winemaking technique.

This month's selections are Muga Blanco and Muga Rioja Riserva.

Issac Muga and his wife, Aurora Cano, brought together two families of traditional wine makers in 1932, and created personalized internationally renowned wines, growing just as rapidly as the demand. The vineyard is still family own and operated. Located on the slopes of the Obareñes Mountains, terraces form small series of vine plots. The soil is clay, but each plot retains significant differences causing great varieties in wine styles.


All aging is done in new oak and their aging techniques are part of what makes Muga so unique. With these aging techniques each wine gives off a taste, smell, and appearance of a wine in a higher level, for example Crianzas taste like Reservas, and Reservas like Gran Reservas. The Muga artisan-style of wine making, especially involving the aging processes, show the great attention to detail expressed by this winemaker. Muga even has its own cooperage, buying French and American oak, and crafting the wine barrels themselves. Muga also claims a long-term bottling process, which they call Prado Enea. This is mainly done with the Tempranillo grape and about 20% of either Garnacha, Graciano, or Mazuelo.

The facilities are two centuries old, built mainly of stone and oak. In fact, oak is paramount in the winery. There are 200 ancient large oak barrels (the size of train cars!) as well as 14,000 barrels, made out of different types of oak ranging from French oak (Allier, Tronçais or Jupilles), American, Hungarian, Russian and Spanish oak.

Muga Blanco  (Notes from Juan Muga) This wine is bright yellow, very pale, with a remarkable greenish component (bigger than in any other vintage). This green hue tells us about the excellent state of conservation of this wine. In the nose it is the most floral vintage in history that we can remember. Usually, the fresh fruit (especially peaches) is the first thing to notice. This time, fresh fruit lies in the background. We also find notes of hay cut green. Secondly, we find citrus, pineapple, apple and fine lees. We do not notice the spices typical of the oak right now but we can expect them to appear after some time in the bottle. The mouth-feel is very fresh and cheerful. With a prevailing acid fruit, there's menthol in the background. It enters the mouth widely with a long taste and a bittersweet aftertaste, due to the combination of malic acid (ruling in this vintage) with the fine lees and the oak spices. The wine's finish has bakery notes.

Wine Advocate: The 2007 Blanco is a blend of 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia. It was barrel-fermented in new French oak where it remained for four months on its lees. Medium straw-colored, it offers up a perfume of mineral, pear, and white peach. On the palate it reveals moderate concentration and some elegance. Drink this ripe, tasty effort over the next 1-2 years. Score: 89.

Muga Reserva  (From Juan) This Rioja Alta powerhouse is back with their latest and greatest from the excellent (the Rioja Consejo Regulador rated it excelente) 2005 vintage. Possessing top notch vineyards, plenty of winery know how (Muga has been making wine since 1932), and a team of world class coopers fashioning barrels on-site, it is no surprise that this estate remains amongst the most consistently impressive in the region. Very bright, pure ruby color. Red-berry aromas which evolve towards toasted, charred-oak and coffee nuances. Balanced on the palate. A deep, intense, flavorsome wine. The fruit, previously pure finesse, now becomes potent. An elegant, persistent finish.

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Recipes provided by Michael Lemaire

Warm Salad of Scallops, Mushrooms and Catalan Vinaigrette  4 servings

Here is a tasty little salad that makes for a nice starter or a light lunch. Packed with flavor, this salad will taste great with the barrel fermented white blend from Muga.

• 3/4 cup sliced almonds
• 1 or 2 juice oranges
• 2 tablespoons capers
• 1 tablespoon anchovies
• 1 cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 sherry vinegar
• Sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 8 ounces white or cremini mushrooms
• 5 to 7 ounces arugula (preferably small leaves)
• 1 pound small bay scallops

Toast the almonds in a dry skillet over medium heat; it should take about 4 minutes for the nuts to pick up a light brown color. Let cool, then coarsely chop and place in a 2-cup container with a tight-fitting lid.

Meanwhile, zest the orange(s) to yield 2 tablespoons, then squeeze them to yield 1/4 cup of juice; add both ingredients to the container.

Drain and coarsely chop the capers and anchovies, then add to the container; mix well.

Add the oil and sherry vinegar. Seal the container and shake well to form an emulsified vinaigrette; taste and season with salt and pepper.

Cut the mushrooms into thin slices and place in a medium bowl. Add 1/4 cup of the vinaigrette and toss to coat evenly.

Wash and dry the arugula; place in a large salad bowl. Add the mushrooms and toss lightly to combine. Season lightly with salt.

Heat 1/2 cup of the vinaigrette in a large saute pan over medium heat. Use paper towels to pat the scallops dry, then season them lightly with salt. Add to the pan; cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, until the scallops become opaque but are still quite soft and tender.

When ready to serve, divide the salad-mushroom mixture among individual plates. Top each portion with the scallops and warm vinaigrette.

Chicken with Catalan Picada Four Servings
This Catalan dish, made with chocolate and spices, is reminiscent of Mexican mole, but without the spiciness of the chiles, so it's much easier to pair with wine. Try it with this month's tempranillo from Muga.

• 4 whole chicken legs, split (2 pounds)
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 2 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• One 14-ounce can whole tomatoes, drained and finely chopped
• 1 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
• 1/4 cup oloroso sherry
• 1 bay leaf
• One 3-inch strip of orange zest
• 1/4 teaspoon thyme leaves
• 1 slice of peasant bread, crusts removed and bread cut into 1/2-inch cubes (1/2 cup)
• 1/4 cup slivered almonds
• 3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
• 1 ounce bittersweet chocolate, chopped
• 1/4 cup chopped parsley
• 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
• Large pinch of saffron threads
• Small pinch each of aniseeds and ground cloves

Season the chicken with salt and pepper. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the chicken, skin side down, and cook over moderately high heat until browned, 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate.
Add the onion to the skillet and cook over moderate heat until softened, 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook over moderately high heat until very thick, 5 minutes. Add the broth, sherry, bay leaf, orange zest and thyme and bring to a boil. Add the chicken, cover and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes, turning once.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350°. Toast the bread and almonds on a baking sheet, about 8 minutes.
In a skillet, heat the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of oil. Add the garlic and cook over moderate heat until golden, 3 minutes. Transfer to a food processor with the bread and almonds, the chocolate, parsley, cinnamon, saffron, aniseeds and cloves. Process to a paste.

Stir the picada into the sauce and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. Discard the bay leaf and orange zest, season with salt and pepper and serve.

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