Farmstead Cheeses and Wines

This month, we travel to Rioja, Spain's best known wine region for an examination of what I call old school versus new school Riojas. By old school, I mean traditional Spanish vinification techniques of more time in barrel and bottle and less new wood being utilized in the aging process, producing a wine that has more acid and less apparent fruit than a new school  Conversely, by new school, I mean smaller oak barrels with a toastier profile, riper fruit, and less time in barrel and bottle to produce a wine that is more fruit forward than its old school counterpart. 


For old school Rioja, we have Bodegas Zuazo Gaston Rioja Crianza.  Located in the little village of Oyón (Alava), Bodegas Zuazo Gaston is a family winery managed by Prudencio Zuazo Gaston, where artisan quality wines are produced using family-owned vineyards and state-of-the-art facilities. Their vineyards encompass 50 hectares of calcereous clay soil where they cultivate Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano grape varieties. The vines are an average age of 30 years, and are located about 450 meters above sea level, taking advantage of a good orientation and long, sunny days. Yields are controlled to about 4,000 kilograms/hectare.  Zuazo Gaston only produces red wines. Their total production is limited to 200,000 bottles per year, thus allowing an optimal quality level for each wine produced.Produced following traditional methods, using destemmed grapes, temperature-controlled fermentation, and prolonged skin contact to achieve the desired extraction of polyphenols. 14 months ageing in 225 liter American oak barrels, followed by some ageing in bottle.


Next up is Big Bang Rioja from Exopto, whose approach is a re-invention of Rioja, in which the three traditional red grapes of the region: Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo, are all put use, put in blends that are radically untraditional. Usually, the majority percentage is of Tempranillo, with Graciano used for aroma and Mazuelo for acidity and tannins.  Their entry level red, Big Bang is a well made, fun young wine.90 PTS ROBERT PARKER. The '06 Exopto Big Bang Rioja exhibits a deep purple color; notes of cedar; spice box; lavender; and blackberry; full flavored and loaded with richness.he 2006 Big Bang is 50% Garnacha, 40% Tempranillo, and 10% Graciano. The Tempranillo and Graciano were aged for 9 months in barrel. Purple colored, the wine offers up a nose of cedar, spice box, lavender, black cherry and blackberry. This is followed by a full-flavored, loaded, primary wine with a supple-texture, layers of fruit, excellent richness and balance, and a pure finish. This tasty wine will evolve for 2-3 years but can be enjoyed now and over the next 6-8 years.

Recipe  Spanish Pork Braise
This month make the comparison of old and new Rioja the theme for a dinner party. This make-ahead dish is rich and memorable and will work well with either style. The pig foot is really worth finding and adding as it will add a rich mouth feel to the resulting sauce. However, tell none of your guests about the foot in mouth and all will be happy.

Pork
•    6 2 1/2-inch-thick pork shank pieces
•    1/2 pig's foot (optional)
•    2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
•    2 large carrots, chopped
•    1 large onion, chopped
•    5 large garlic cloves, chopped
•    1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
•    1 28-ounce can plum tomatoes in juice, tomatoes coarsely chopped
•    2 cups low-salt chicken broth
•    1 cup medium-dry Sherry
•    3 dried ancho chiles,* halved, stemmed, seeded
•    2 tablespoons tomato paste
•    1 tablespoon chili powder
•    1 tablespoon Spanish sweet paprika (pimentn dulce) or Hungarian sweet paprika
•    2 teaspoons ground cumin
•    1 teaspoon ground coriander
•    1 1/4 pounds smoked ham shanks

Garbanzo beans and Gremolata:
•    2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
•    2 15 1/2-ounce cans garbanzo beans (chickpeas), drained
•    1 large garlic clove, minced
•    Large pinch of saffron threads
•    2 thin prosciutto slices, finely chopped
•    1/4 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
•    1/4 cup chopped toasted almonds
•    1 tablespoon grated orange peel
•    4 thin prosciutto slices, torn into strips (for garnish)


For pork:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Sprinkle pork shanks and pig's foot with salt and pepper. Heat oil in heavy wide pot over medium-high heat. Working in batches, sauté shanks and foot until brown, about 12 minutes per batch; transfer to baking sheet. Add carrots, onion, garlic, and thyme to pot. Sauté until onion softens, about 5 minutes. Add coarsely chopped tomatoes with juice, broth, Sherry, chiles, tomato paste, chili powder, paprika, cumin, and coriander. Bring to boil, scraping up browned bits from pan bottom.
Return shanks and foot, if using, to pot. Place smoked ham shanks in pot, arranging all in single layer. Return to boil. Cover pot and place in oven. Braise until pork shanks are tender, about 1 hour 40 minutes.
Tilt pot; carefully spoon off all fat. Simmer pork uncovered over medium heat until sauce thickens to desired consistency, about 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Pork can be made 1 day ahead. Cool about 30 minutes. Chill uncovered until cold, then cover and keep chilled. Rewarm over medium heat before continuing.

Meanwhile, make garbanzo beans and gremolata:
Heat oil in medium skillet over medium-low heat. Add beans, garlic, and saffron. Sauté until heated through, about 5 minutes. Mix in chopped prosciutto. Sprinkle beans with salt and pepper. Mix parsley, almonds, and orange peel in small bowl for gremolata.
Place 1 pork shank on each of 6 plates. Spoon sauce around. Spoon garbanzo beans around shanks. Sprinkle with some of gremolata. Drape prosciutto strips over shanks. Serve, passing remaining gremolata.

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