Every once in a while, it's important to discover/remember/learn about/pay honor to the region where Pinot Noir comes from : Burgundy.

This month's allocation is for a bottle of the supple 2008 Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot Gevrey Chambertin.

Gevrey Chambertin produces some of the most fruit forward wines in Burgundy, and are a good "stepping stone" for fans of doemstic Pinot Noir.

Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot is a fourth generation family estate located in the heart of Gevrey-Chambertin. Winemaking at the 20 hectare domaine is in the hands of Didier Chevillon, son in law of Bernard Dupont, who has retired. Didier aims to take the venerable property to new heights of quality and recognition.

The domaine has extensive holdings in Gevrey-Chambertin. Their largest single production is in Gevrey-Chambertin AOC, where they have 9 hectares spread over nine parcels. The average vine age is 35 years. The domaine owns 2 hectares of 45 year-old vines of 1er Cru Cazetiers, where the soil ranges from white limestone-marl through sandy-limestone. Their one-hectare holding in 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques has 30 year old vines planted on clay-limestone soil with the presence of many fossils. Dupont-Tisserandot also owns about one-half hectare each of Charmes Chambertin and Mazis Chambertin, where the vines are respectively 50 and 60 years old. The Charmes has a thin, linestone-clay topsoil over a sub-soil of pure rock. The Mazis parcel, situated in the choice “Les Hauts Mazis” section, has yet thinner soil over solid limestone rock. Yields in both appellations naturally average a low 35 hl/ha, and are kept at this level through severe pruning and plowing between the rows in Winter and Spring.

Didier Chevillion aims for deeply concentrated Gevreys which show the distinctions of their individual terroirs of origin and above all the essence of Gevrey Chambertin – namely licorice-tinged, supple black fruit with notes of spice and sweetness. The grapes are totally destemmed and are given a cold maceration at 12 degrees centigrade for 5 to 8 days. The fermentation period lasts between 15 and 18 days, after which the wines are moved to oak casks, of which 50% are new for the 1er and Grand Crus. The wines are aged on their fine lees, so as to retain the maximum of fruit and freshness, for 18 months before bottling.


Gevrey-Chambertin: Licorice-tinged, supple black fruit with notes of spice and sweetness. It is a generous, ample wine with mouthfilling, spicy, blackberry fruit. This is a great introduction to Didier Chevillion’s style.

Gevrey-Chambertin is produced in the communes of Gevrey-Chambertin and Brochon in the Côte de Nuits subregion of Burgundy. The AOC Gevrey-Chambertin may be used only for red wine with Pinot Noir as the main grape variety.

There are nine Grand Cru vineyards within the commune of Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambertin and eight others called Chambertin in combination with something else, such as Chapelle-Chambertin. While Gevrey-Chambertin also has several highly regarded Premier Cru vineyards, it has a particularly large amount of vineyards at the village level for a Côte de Nuits appellation. This is because the vineyards of the AOC stretch further to the east (beyond the N74 road) than in most neighbouring AOCs.

Gevrey-Chambertin wines are highly colourful and potent for being Burgundies, with intense aromas and flavours evoking blackcurrant, cherry, musk and liquorice, among others. The potency of Gevrey-Chambertin wines makes it a suitable accompaniment to stews and strong-flavoured cooking, such as grilled red meat, leg of mutton, beef Bourguignon, rabbit stew, coq au vin, coq au Chambertin, and strong cheeses, including Époisses de Bourgogne.

RECIPE:  Parmesan Crusted Halibut with Caponata and Chanterelle Risotto  Serves 4

Meaty but delicately flavored fish, like halibut, wild striped bass or snapper, work well with lighter style reds such as Pinot Noir from Burgundy or Cabernet Franc from the Loire (stay away from oily fish like bluefish when serving red wines—they tend to make the wine's tannins taste metallic).

1/2 cup virgin olive oil

1 large Spanish onion, chopped in 1/2-inch dice

3 tablespoons pine nuts

3 tablespoons currants

1 tablespoon hot chili flakes, plus extra for garnish

2 medium eggplant, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (to yield 4 cups)

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder

2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or 1/2 teaspoon

1/4 cup basic tomato sauce

1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

Salt and freshly ground pepper

5 sprigs mint, chopped

2 shallots, minced

1/2 pound fresh chanterelles, stemmed and sliced

3 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves only

1 fresh bay leaf

2 cups white wine

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups arborio rice

6 cups chicken stock

1/2 cup grated Moliterno Tartufo

4 halibut fillets, skin off (about 7 ounces each)

3 eggs

1 teaspoon water

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons oil

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
In a large 12 to 14-inch saute pan, over medium heat, heat the olive oil until hot but not smoking. Add the onions, pine nuts, currants and chili flakes and saute for 4 to 5 minutes until softened.Add the eggplant, sugar, cinnamon, and cocoa and continue to cook for 5 more minutes. Add the thyme, tomato sauce, and balsamic vinegar. Bring the mixture to a boil.Lower the heat and simmer the mixture for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature, garnish with mint and chili flakes.

Heat a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium-low heat. Add a little olive oil and butter. Add shallots and cook until translucent, and then toss the mushrooms, thyme and bay leaf into the pan. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms have released their moisture and begin to turn golden brown.

Pour  ½ the wine into the pan, and bring to a simmer, allowing the wine to evaporate. Continue cooking until the mushrooms are dry.Season with salt and pepper. Remove the mushrooms from the pan and set aside. Discard the bay leaf.

Reduce the heat to low, and add  a little more butter and oil to the pan. Stir in the rice and coat with the oil until the kernels are shiny. Pour in the remaining cup of wine and let evaporate. Add the stock, 1 ladle at a time, allowing the rice to absorb the liquid. Stir over a gentle flame until each ladle of the liquid is absorbed. Repeat until most of the broth is incorporated and the risotto  is al dente.

Fold the mushrooms back into the rice and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the the grated cheese. Keep warm until needed.

In a shallow bowl, whisk eggs with water, salt and pepper. Dip halibut fillets into the egg mixture. Then dip fish into the grated Parmesan and coat on all sides. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet. When pan is hot, lay fillets in pan and brown each side until crust has formed. With a spatula, gently transfer halibut to a baking dish with the browner side up. Place in the oven and bake approximately 10 minutes or until halibut flakes easily. Remove the finish from the oven.

Divide the risotto among 4 large dinner bowls. Place a piece of fish on op, and spoon the caponata over the fish.

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