This month we're please to present  Dehlinger Russian River  Pinot Noir, an impeccably made, moderately priced, and impossible to find.

One Bottle Limit.

Dehlinger has been producing Estate-grown Russian River Valley Pinot noir since the late 1970s, and to this day, all fruit comes from the Dehlinger Vineyard. Planted between 1975 and 1989, the Pinot vines are primarily clones of Pommard and Swan, with smaller amounts of Dijon 777 and Martini.

The fruit for their "Estate Pinot Noirs" comes from the hilltop sections of the vineyard. The wines tend to showcase darker fruit flavors and aromas of baking spices. The inclusion of a small percentage of whole clusters in the fermentation lends greater structure and aging potential to these bottlings.
93 points, Parker:  "From the hilltop sections of Dehlinger’s vineyard, the sensational 2007 Pinot Noir Estate boasts impressively pure fruit (black raspberries, forest floor, earth, and spice), dazzling intensity, medium to full body, a dark ruby/purple color, and an expressive, expansive mouthfeel and length. This beauty can be drunk now or cellared for a decade or more.

Tom Dehlinger is “consistently consistent,” and his wines are always a delight to taste. When you combine that with fair pricing and remarkable humility, this estate merits (and receives) strong support from wine consumers. Dehlinger’s 2007 Pinot Noirs may be the finest he has produced since the mid-nineties (his 1994s are still holding on to life). In his quiet manner, Tom Dehlinger continues to turn out very fine Syrahs, and deserves credit for being one of the pioneers with Rhone Ranger varietals.

The ever reliable Tom Dehlinger continues to turn out some of the most fairly priced wine in all of California.  Dehlinger’s Pinot Noirs have an enviable track record of aging well for at least a decade even in challenging vintages."

RECIPE:  Braised Veal Shoulder with Mushrooms Serves 4-6

Veal shoulder makes an a great economical alternative to other cuts of veal, which can be quite expensive.  It is available at most good butcher stores. If they don't stock it, they can order it for you.

Veal is a light meat that pairs best with light reds such as Pinot Noir that won’t overwhelm it’s flavor.

1 boneless veal shoulder roast, about 4 pounds, trimmed of fat and tied

6 garlic cloves, quartered lengthwise

2 tablespoons oregano, finely chopped

1 ½ teaspoons green peppercorns, cracked

2 tablespoons butter

6 shallots, cut into ¼ inch slices

1 leek, white part cut into ¼ inch slices,

1 bouquet garni (1 green leaf part, 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig thyme-tied together)

2 pounds baby potatoes, cut into ¼ inch slices

½ pound oyster mushrooms, trimmed and split

½ pound white button mushrooms, trimmed

¼ pound king trumpet mushrooms, trimmed and cut into ¼ inch thick slices

⅓ pound morels, cut in half

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup veal stock

1 ½ cups heavy cream

3 large egg yolks

½ cup flat leaf parsley leaves

Preheat the oven to 325º F.

Make 1-inch-deep incisions all over the meat with a sharp knife. Stuff the garlic quarters into the incisions, and rub the veal well with salt, half of the oregano and the peppercorns.

Heat oil in a medium cast-iron pot or Dutch oven set over high heat. Add the veal, and sear until golden-brown on all sides, 10 to 15 minutes total. Transfer the veal to a platter.

Add the butter, shallots and leek to the pot, and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the potatoes, and cook until light golden-brown. Add the mushrooms and cook a few minutes to soften. Season and add the wine. Bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pot. Cook until reduced by ¼: add the veal stock, return to a simmer. Add the bouquet garni and the veal, and transfer the pot to the oven.

Braise, loosely covered with buttered parchment paper, for 45 minutes, basting and turning the veal several times.

Uncover, 1 cup of the cream. Cover with buttered parchment, and continue braising, basting and turning the veal every 20 minutes, until the meat is very tender, about 1 hour.

Remove the pot from the oven, and let the veal rest for 20 minutes in the liquid. Transfer the veal to a large serving platter, and reserve, keeping warm.

Remove the bouquet garni, and discard. Set the pot with the liquid on the stove set over medium-high heat, and bring to a simmer. Reduce until slightly thickened, 5 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk together the remaining 1/4 cup cream with the egg yolks in a small bowl. Remove the pot from the heat, and stir in the egg-yolk mixture. Pour the sauce and vegetables around the veal. Garnish with the parsley leaves and the remaining 1 tablespoon of the savory, and serve immediately.

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