This month, we're pleased to present a selection fo wines from one of California's pre-eminent producers of Pinot Noir - Radio-Coteau.
Radio-Coteau is a great success story, with proprietor Eric Sussman producing small-lot, handcrafted wines. Everything is fermented naturally, there are no enzymes, acidulations, very low SO2 is utilized, and the wines are bottled in-house, with neither fining nor filtration. This is always an exciting line-up of wines that remain fairly priced.
Sussman brings a wealth of winemaking experience to the project, most recently as the associate winemaker at Dehlinger. Prior to that, Eric was at Bonny Doon (Associate Winemaker), Comte Armand & Jacques Prieur - Burgundy, Mouton Rothschild & Clerc Milon - Bordeaux.
Radio Coteau is a French colloquial expression, translating roughly to word of mouth, or heard it through the grapevine. The name aptly expresses Eric's feelings about commitment to the land through sustainable farming, and traditional methods of winegrowing being passed onward.
In starting Radio Coteau, Eric was determined to select the best vineyard sources along the north coastal areas (both Sonoma Coast and Mendocino County), treat the fruit with the utmost care and non-interventionist
techniques, and just let nature take its course. No, this isn't rocket science. But, the extra attention that he brings to the project translates into things like picking fruit on 4 separate occasions at Savoy, just to get the perfect ripeness. Long cold soaks (7-10 days) no inoculation for primary or secondary fermentation, no enzyme additions, low SO2 regime, and of course, no fining or filtration.
You have a choice of a bottle of their Terra Neuma, Savoy, or the Neblina bottlings (Neblina available only in Alameda). We have enough of these wines on hand so that you could purchase one of each if you wish.
From the Sonoma Coast, the 2007 Pinot Noir Terra Neuma is like tasting pure truffle and damp earth with liqueur, root vegetables, and some cherries and pomegranates. It is tannic, more backward, and made from heritage California clones. (89-91 Parker).
Exposed to the rigors of the foggy Sonoma coastline, this sixth–generation family– owned ranch resides on a bluff above Bodega, a few miles from the Pacific Ocean. This marginal site on the edge of the Sonoma Coast, Demeter certified Biodynamic and farmed by the Benzigers, is characterized by consistently low yields and extended hang times. Twenty percent of the fruit in 2007 was whole cluster fermented.
Explosive nose with an enigmatic, almost Burgundian profile, showing black cherry, evergreen, blood sausage, poured concrete, straw and coastal saline flavors. Cassis, rose bush and black cherry flavors lift the bright, expansive midpalate. Cocoa powder, espresso, mineral and sangre notes introduce a whiplash of dark fruit flavors on the concentrated, energetic finish. Though its notable complexity and tension make it eminently enjoyable now, its buried structure will support cellaring until at least 2015.
2007 Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard has sappy red fruits and pomegranates, noticeable tannins, but beautiful texture, depth, and ripeness. The wine just needs more time, and I think should turn out to be outstanding. It should be drunk in the first 5-8 years of life. (88-90+ Parker)
On a stunning hillside vineyard located northwest of Philo, Richard Savoy´s Pinot Noir grapes develop intense flavor over a growing season lengthened by the cooling maritime influence that funnels through the Anderson Valley. A severe veraison drop in early September of 2007 helped concentrate and ripen the fruit.
Showing classic Savoy pedigree, the intensely colored wine features intensity and focus on the nose as well with fresh blueberry, black cherry, limestone, sage, milk chocolate and grilled meat aromas. Minty berry, cherry and chocolate flavors emanate from the expansive, lush midpalate. The finish, though elegant, still shows the cut of youth, with fine–grained tannins providing the structure for long–term cellaring. Drink through at least 2016.
The 2006 Pinot Noir La Neblina is a mix from several single vineyards from the Sonoma Coast. It usually includes small percentages of whole clusters, and never more than 50% new oak. The 2006 Pinot Noir La Neblina has more earth and forest floor notes, some ruggedly constructed Pommard-like red fruits backed up by serious muscle, depth, and power. (91 Parker)
Spanish for “fog,” la neblina rolls in from the Pacific Ocean to blanket and cool the coastal Pinot Noir vineyards of western Sonoma County. This handcrafted wine blends the nuanced characteristics of a few select sites. Fifteen percent of the fruit was whole cluster fermented. The core of this blend is from vines planted on the Goldridge soils of the Sebastopol Bench along Gravenstein Highway 116. Annapolis sourced Pommard fruit enhanced midpalate structure.
With crystalline focus, the nose showcases black cherry, rose bush, shitake mushroom, soy sauce, white pepper and river rock aromas. Wet earth and cocoa powder show up on the midpalate, while pure black cherry and rose petal aromatics keep things focused. The finish is well defined, with silky tannins buffering integrated cherry, dark chocolate and lavender flavors.
Refer a Friend Promotion: From now through March 31, we'll give you either a $10 Farmstead Gift Certificate or a Bottle of Wine for every new Wine Club membership that you bring to us.
Recipes:
Veal Chops with Potato Gnocchi and Rapini Serves Four
This recipe is a streamlined version of a dish I used to have on the winter menu at a restaurant on the East Coast. It would make a great Valentine's Day main course!
Serves 4
* 1 pound russet potatoes
* 3/4 cup of flour
* 2 egg yolks, beaten
* 1 tablespoon chopped chives
* Salt and pepper to taste
* 2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
* 1 bunch rapini, leaves removed and florets cut into 3-inch pieces
* 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
* 4 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
* salt and pepper to taste
* 4 large veal chops (14-16 ounces each)
* 1/4 cup dry white wine
* 1 1/2 cups chicken stock
* 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Heat oven to 350F.
Bake potatoes on a bed of kosher/rock salt for about one hour until done. Scoop out flesh and push through a fine sieve. Make a well in the center of the potatoes and add half the flour and all the eggs. Season with a little salt and pepper and using a table scraper begin to chop and turn the potatoes, add a little flour at a time until the dough begins to come together. You will need to work quickly to prevent the dough from getting cold. Finally add the chives and fold into a ball. Taking a little piece of the dough at a time, roll into a ½” thick rope and cut into 1” pieces. Lay the pieces on a paper lined and floured baking sheet, keeping apart to prevent them sticking together. Cook in boling salted water until they float to the top. Drain and toss the gnocchi with the butter. Keep warm.
Cook the rapini in a pot of boiling salted water until tender. Drain and immediately plunge into a bowl of ice water. In a saute pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes. Add the rapini and saute until heated through. Season with salt and pepper, and set aside, covered to keep warm.
Season the veal chops with salt and pepper, and sear in a large saute pan, for about 3 minutes on each side. Put the pan in the oven and roast about 4 minutes. Turn the chops and roast a further 5 to 6 minutes for medium rare. Transfer the chops to a platter and keep warm. Pour off any oil in the pan and add the wine. Raise the heat to high and deglaze the pan by scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Add the stock and cook until the sauce has thickened. Remove from the heat and swirl in the butter. Season with salt and pepper, and serve alongside the veal chops, gnocchi and rapini.For the Pinot Grigio: Spaghetti with Tuna, Parsley and Olive Oil Serves Four
The secret to making this luscious pasta is to stir in a little of the pasta cooking water, which melds with the tuna and the oil to create a creamy sauce. The touch of lemon oil at the end pulls the dish together and picks up on the citrus notes of the pinot grigio.
* 12 ounces dried spaghetti
* 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
* 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
* 1 1⁄2 teaspoons crushed red chile flakes
* 3 6-oz. cans olive oil–packed tuna (undrained)
* 3 tablespoons flat leaf parsley, chopped
* Kosher saltLemon oil for garnish
Bring a 6-quart pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook until it is just al dente, about 8 minutes. Ladle out and reserve 1⁄2 cup pasta water. Drain and reserve pasta.
Meanwhile, heat 3 tablespoons of the extra-virgin olive oil in a 12" skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic and red chile flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic softens, about 2 minutes. Increase heat to high. Add tuna and cook, stirring and breaking up tuna into small chunks with a wooden spoon, until heated through, about 2 minutes.
Add reserved pasta and water and toss with tuna sauce. Cook, stirring vigorously with tongs, until sauce thickens and clings to pasta. Stir in parsley, season with salt to taste, and drizzle with the lemon oil.
Divide the pasta between 4 bowls and serve immediately.
For the Pinot Noir: Veal Chops with Potato Gnocchi and Rapini Serves Four
From Andy: This recipe is a streamlined version of a dish I used to have on the winter menu at a restaurant on the East Coast. It would make a great Valentine's Day main course!
* 1 pound russet potatoes
* 3/4 cup of flour
* 2 egg yolks, beaten
* 1 tablespoon chopped chives
* Salt and pepper to taste
* 2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
* 1 bunch rapini, leaves removed and florets cut into 3-inch pieces
* 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
* 4 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
* salt and pepper to taste
* 4 large veal chops (14-16 ounces each)
* 1/4 cup dry white wine
* 1 1/2 cups chicken stock
* 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Heat oven to 350F.
Bake potatoes on a bed of kosher/rock salt for about one hour until done. Scoop out flesh and push through a fine sieve. Make a well in the center of the potatoes and add half the flour and all the eggs. Season with a little salt and pepper and using a table scraper begin to chop and turn the potatoes, add a little flour at a time until the dough begins to come together. You will need to work quickly to prevent the dough from getting cold. Finally add the chives and fold into a ball. Taking a little piece of the dough at a time, roll into a ½” thick rope and cut into 1” pieces. Lay the pieces on a paper lined and floured baking sheet, keeping apart to prevent them sticking together. Cook in boling salted water until they float to the top. Drain and toss the gnocchi with the butter. Keep warm.
Cook the rapini in a pot of boiling salted water until tender. Drain and immediately plunge into a bowl of ice water. In a saute pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes. Add the rapini and saute until heated through. Season with salt and pepper, and set aside, covered to keep warm.
Season the veal chops with salt and pepper, and sear in a large saute pan, for about 3 minutes on each side. Put the pan in the oven and roast about 4 minutes. Turn the chops and roast a further 5 to 6 minutes for medium rare. Transfer the chops to a platter and keep warm. Pour off any oil in the pan and add the wine. Raise the heat to high and deglaze the pan by scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Add the stock and cook until the sauce has thickened. Remove from the heat and swirl in the butter. Season with salt and pepper, and serve alongside the veal chops, gnocchi and rapini.
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