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January Pinot Noir

This month's selection is one of the reasons that you joined the Pinot Noir club:  a highly allocated Russian River Pinot Noir that's impossible to find in stores:   Rochioli Russian River Pinot Noir!

One of the great wine families of Sonoma, the Rochiolis’ legacy dates back to the 1930s, which may not be quite as long as the Martinellis, who date back to the late 1800s, but underscores the extraordinary wine culture these families built with their meticulous attention to top vineyard sites, which today are some of the gems of Northern California. The Chardonnays are all superb and very consistent, even in vintages such as 2006. Having their own vineyards obviously makes a huge difference, and the farming is impeccable.

Tom Rochioli’s approach to Pinot Noir is definitely hands-off. He destems 100%. (As he says, “No one eats the stems of apples, peaches, or apricots.”) He ages everything in 100% Francois Freres cooperage, and does not touch the wines until they are racked out of barrel to be assembled for bottling, which is done with neither fining nor filtration.

These consistently brilliant wines are among my favorite Pinot Noirs of California.The medium ruby-hued 2006 Pinot Noir Estate possesses soft, strawberry and kirsch-like aromas, abundant sweet berry fruit on the palate, good acidity, and a soft, round style meant to be consumed over the next several years.

The 2007 Pinot Noir Estate displays delicious plum, raspberry and black cherry notes, with hints of earth and roasted herbs. The wine is medium to full-bodied, already delicious, and should drink nicely for 7-8 years.

RECIPE  Grilled Leg of Lamb with Red Wine, Garlic, Mustard, and Sage Serves 12

The leg of lamb gets a rich flavor from a marinade of red wine, garlic, mustard, and sage. The lamb needs to marinate overnight, so be sure to begin one day ahead. Ask the butcher to bone and butterfly the lamb for you.

* 1 cup dry red wine
* 3/4 cup chopped shallots
* 1/2 cup whole grain Dijon mustard
* 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage (about 1/2 ounce) plus sprigs for garnish (optional)
* 1/4 cup olive oil
* 3 garlic cloves, pressed
* 1 7-pound leg of lamb, boned, evenly flattened, outside fat partially trimmed (yields about 5 2/3 pounds)
* 1 cup beef stock or low sodium beef broth
* 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Whisk wine, shallots, mustard, 1/3 cup chopped sage, oil, and garlic in medium glass bowl. Transfer 1/2 cup marinade to small bowl; reserve for sauce. Cover and chill. Place leg of lamb in 2-gallon resealable plastic bag. Pour remaining marinade into bag; seal. Turn bag to coat, arranging lamb in 1 flat piece. Place lamb in marinade on rimmed baking sheet. Chill overnight, turning occasionally.
Combine reserved 1/2 cup marinade and beef broth in small saucepan. Boil until reduced to 3/4 cup, about 12 minutes.
Sauce can be made 1 day ahead. Cool, cover, and chill.
Prepare barbecue (medium heat). Remove lamb from plastic bag and transfer to large rimmed baking sheet with some marinade still clinging. Open lamb like book and sprinkle on both sides with salt and pepper. Transfer lamb to grill. Cover and grill until charred and instant-read thermometer inserted into meat registers 135°F for medium-rare, about 10 minutes per side (some thicker pieces can be cut away from leg and grilled longer if desired). Transfer to work surface; let rest 10 minutes.
Rewarm sauce. Whisk in butter and remaining 1 tablespoon chopped sage. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Thinly slice lamb against grain. Transfer to platter. Spoon some of sauce over. Garnish with fresh sage sprigs, if desired. Serve with additional sauce alongside.