Dear Pinotphile:
This month, we return to the Anderson Valley for a choice between two fabulous wines from Londer: Londer Anderson Valley Estate Pinot Noir, and Londer Anderson Valley Paraboll Pinot Noir. This is the third time we have offered Londer wines to the Pinot Club.
Londer Vineyards is a small family owned winery founded in 2001 that makes Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer from their own Anderson Valley vineyards and other wines with fruit from other quality North Coast vineyards. All grapes are hand picked and sorted. Made by consulting winemaker Greg LaFollette and winemaker Rick Davis.
LaFollette previously worked under Andre Tchelistcheff at Beaulieu, at Flowers, and at his own label, Tandem. Davis was assistant winemaker at Flowers and Tandem.
The Londers have planted 15 acres of Pinot Noir and 1 acre of Gewurztraminer on their estate property. The vines are situated on south-facing hillsides and have excellent sun exposure.
Paraboll is a reserve blend from select Anderson Valley vineyards. The name means "good red" in the local Anderson Valley Boontling dialect, and this year's vintage comes from both the Ferrington and Valley Foothills vineyards. It's always one of my favorite wines - I love the plush fruit and fine tannins.
2006 marks the third vintage for the Londer Estate program, and each year the fruit keeps getting better and better, with gobs of the cherry fruit that the Anderson Valley is known for.
Londer Estate received 93 pts from the Pinot Report: Medium-deep ruby color; deep, complex spicy cherry aromas; ripe, rich. deep and complex cherry flavors with cinnamon and herbal notes; sweet oak; good structure and balance; long finish. Spicy and rich Pinot with many layers of complex flavor; needs air to open up, and 93 points from the California Connoisseurs Guide: Whereas Londers succulent Paraboll bottling steers to glyceriny plumpness, this equally ripe, but more firmly structured wine is built in a sturdier style. Like its mate, it exhibits no shortfall of fruity substance and depth, yet it is never so showy and conveys a certain sense of reserve. Even though slightly tannic and a bit tight at the end, it sports persistent finishing fruit, and its high recommendation comes as much for what it will be in another few years as for what it is right now.
Londer Paraboll received 94 points from the Pinot Report: "Medium-deep ruby color; deep, spicy, anise aromas; ripe, deep and rich cherry and spice flavors with herbal and anise notes; some tannin and sweet oak; good structure and balance; long finish. Deep and spicy with complex notes of cherry and anise; this is a Pinot with a lot of development ahead. Great structure. Drink now with lots of air or restrain yourself; and 91 Points from the Wine Spectator: Elegantly styled, supple, detailed and concentrated, with spicy plum, black cherry and wild berry fruit that unfolds gracefully, turning complex and gaining depth on the long, plummy finish.
Recipe: Roasted Free Range Chicken with Mushroom-Truffle Stuffing Serves 4
The seductive, rich, earthy flavors and aromas of this recipe are a perfect pairing with the Londer pinot noir. If you cannot find or afford fresh truffles, substitute a little truffle paste and/or some black truffle oil, just remember a little goes a long way! It could be fun to drizzle a little truffle oil over the chicken as soon as it comes out of the oven!
* 1 ( 3 and half pound) Free Range Chicken
* 1 cup fresh bread, cut into ½-inch cubes
* 1/3 cup milk
* 1 egg, lightly beaten
* 6 ounce chopped chicken liver
* ½ pound mixed mushrooms, cleaned and diced
* 1 ounce black truffles, diced
* 1 ½ tablespoons minced garlic
* 2 tablespoons diced shallot
* 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
* ½ teaspoon thyme leaves
* 1 tablespoon duck fat (you may substitute butter)
* ½ teaspoon fine sea salt
* ¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
* 2 cups chicken stock
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Rinse the chicken and pat dry. Remove the wings and reserve.
Soak the bread in the milk. Squeeze out the excess milk from the bread and place in a large bowl. Add the eggs, chicken liver, mushrooms, truffles, garlic, shallot, parsley, thyme and duck fat. Season with salt and pepper. Season the cavity of the chicken with salt and pepper and fill with the stuffing. Thread a trussing needle with a piece of kitchen string at least 18 inches long. Sew the opening in the chicken closed using a criss-cross pattern- enter the bird just above the breast and cross down to the opposite leg, pulling the string tight. Repeat with the other side of the bird.
Finally, pierce the top of the breast and pass the needle through the bottom of the bird. The opening should be completely closed at this point. Tie the legs together. Season the bird on the outside with salt and pepper.
Place the wings in a roasting pan and place the chicken on top of the wings. Roast for 90 minutes, or until the juices run clear when the leg is pierced and the stuffing reaches 150 degrees F. Remove the chicken to a platter and let it rest at least 10 minutes
Place the roasting pan over high heat and add the chicken stock to deglaze the pan, stirring the browned bits in the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil, and then remove from the heat. Strain into a small pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
To serve, carve the chicken and slice the breast meat and leg meat. Serve 2 slices of each and a spoon of the stuffing. Spoon the sauce over the plate and pass the extra sauce at the table. Serve immediately.
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