This month, we travel to the Veneto, in the Northeast of Italy.  

Remo Farina Ripasso Ripasso is an Italian red wine from Valpolicella made by fermenting young wine with the skins and lees left over from making Amarone. This examplar is made from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes.*  The young Valpolicella, made in October, undergoes a second fermentation in November together with grapes that have been lightly dried for two months. This process adds color, alcohol and depth of flavor to the finished wine. The 2006 has fresh, ripe plums and red cherries fruit with hints of cinnamon and nutmeg on the palate, and is lingering and intense on the finish. It boasts the vibrancy of fresh young Valpolicella fruit but with the intensity and concentration of Amarone.

(If you wish, you may substitute a bottle of Remo Farina Amarone ($51.50) for the Ripassa).



Zeta, Zardetto’s new, vintage dated Prosecco, is a top-class sparkling wine with a bold personality. It represents the highest expression of Prosecco. Zeta is made from carefully hand-selected Prosecco grapes grown in the low-yield single vineyard of S. Pietro di Feletto, one of the best sites in the Prosecco di Conegliano DOC area. This is an exciting, complex sparkling wine-- the result of Zardetto’s relentless research on the Prosecco grape.
Tasting Notes 

Bright straw yellow in color, with an elegant and distinctive perlage, Zeta offers a complex bouquet of orange blossom, lemongrass, peach and tropical fruits. Produced in limited quantity, this wine is extremely versatile. It can be served with traditional desserts, from pastries to fruit tarts, as an aperitif for your antipasto, or simply by itself after dinner. For any occasion, Zeta will bring your palate a taste of the Italian zest for life.



Veneto or Venetia (Vèneto), is one of the 20 regions of Italy. Its population is about 4.8 million, and its capital is Venice. Once the cradle of the renowned Venetian Republic, then a land of mass emigration, Veneto is today among the wealthiest and most industrialized regions of Italy. Veneto's natural, historical, and artistic beauty makes it, by far, the most visited region of Italy, with about 60 million tourists every year (2007).

Spoken languages are Italian, Venetian (a motion to recognize Venetian as an official regional language has been approved by the regional Parliament) and Ladin. The regional constitution, approved by the Italian Parliament in 1971, also recognizes Veneto inhabitants as a "people" (i.e. a distinct people from the Italian people).

As a seafood haven, Venice exalts risotto nero (blackened with cuttlefish ink), scampi (prawns) and spider crabs called granseole. Venetians have their own lexicon for creatures from the lagoon: cannolicchi or cape longhe (razor-shell clams), peoci (mussels), garusoli (spiky sea snails), cape sante and the smaller canestrelli (scallops), folpetti (curled octopus), schile (tiny shrimp) and sardele (sardines). But Venetians also dine on the earthly likes of risi e bisi (rice and peas), fegato alla veneziana (calf's liver and onions) and Carpaccio. That raw beef dish originated in Venice, as did the rampantly fashionable dessert called tiramisù.

Cured pork products include variations on salami called soppressata, as well as cotechino and other types of sausage. The prosciutto from the Berici and Euganei hills in the southern Veneto rates a DOP. Protected cheeses take in Asiago, from Alpine meadows, and Monte Veronese, from the hills north of Verona, as well as Grana Padano, Montasio, Provolone Valpadano and Taleggio, shared with other regions.

Rice has always found greater favor among Venetians than pasta. The compact Vialone Nano from Verona's lowlands rates an IGP. It excels for risotto, or risoto, usually made by sautéeing the rice and base ingredients then simmering them in broth without stirring. Rice dishes, often substantial, include an endless variety of meat, fish, game, vegetables, mushrooms, herbs and odd combinations such as riso con i bruscàndoli (wild hop shoots) and risi in cavroman (mutton spiced with cinnamon).

RECIPES:

This month's recipes are courtesy of our resident Italian chef John Couacaud, chef owner of Acquacotta (1544 Webster St, Alameda  510 523 2220). 

For the Prosecco Cozze al' Vapore (Mussels steamed with saffron flavored fennel)

• 3lbs Prince Edward Island mussels, cleaned and debearded
• 1 small yellow onion, sliced
• 2 fennel bulbs, sliced
• 1 big pinch of saffron threads
• 1 T chopped parsley
• 1T chopped garlic
• Olive oil
• butter
• dry white wine

In an 8-10qt pot with a tight fitting lid warm the saffron gently until it is quite dry and brittle. Add a few tablespoons of olive oil and then the slice onion and fennel. Cook over medium low heat until the vegetables are well-softened and bright saffron yellow. Remove the fennel/onion to a warmed plate
 
Turn up the heat; add a few more tablespoons of olive oil and the garlic. Watch carefully at this point. When the garlic begins to brown throw in the parsley then the mussels, onion and fennel. To this add about a cup of dry white wine (you can use Prosecco if you like) a small knob of butter and put the lid on. Cook for about 5 minutes or so over high heat, shaking the pot occasionally, until all the shells have opened.
 
Transfer the shells and all the liquid to a large deep serving dish. Serve with grilled bread and plenty of napkins.
 
As with all recipes...salt to taste when and where you like. I do suggest salting the onion fennel mix a bit at the beginning.

For the Ripassa : Venetian Style Liver and Onions

• 1.5lbs  Calves Liver (Beef Liver will not work) sliced thin...about 1/4 inch
• 1.5lbs  yellow onions, sliced thin
• a little flour for dusting
• butter for frying...be generous
• dry Marsala or Sherrry

Heat a pan (or two) large enough to hold the liver in a single layer. Put some butter in the pan... when the foaming subsides add the onion and a little salt. Turn the heat down to medium low and cook the onions, stirring frequently until they are lightly caramelized. Remove the onions and keep warm. Wipe out the pan and re-heat. Add another lump of butter. When the foaming subsides, dredge the liver lightly in flour(optional) and put it in the pan. Cook the liver for two or three minutes on each side...don't over cook it!
Remove the liver to a warmed platter. Give a splash of Sherry or marsala to the pan  and return the onions to same. When the onions are bubbly hot put the liver back in the pan for a minute. Serve it forth! as a great Lady once said.

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