Italian Wine Club
May Italian Wine Club
This month we travel to Calabria, a region in southern Italy, south of Naples,
located at the toe of the Italian
peninsula, home of Caciocavalla cheese,
Bacala and Oricchette con Cima.
Calabrese wines
are wonderful. We've picked two that we hope you like.
Caldora Colle de Vente Pecorino
Pecorino is one of the best known local varietals. Its name comes from the shape of the grape's bunches or clusters, which locals say resembles the head of a sheep. This special varietal is renowned for its complexity and outstanding aromatic profile. Yet, Pecorino is little known outside of Ortona as the grape is notoriously low yielding. Caldora is a new winery that began in 2003, as a partnership between Valentino Sciotti and renowned winemaker Mario Ercolino. This dynamic duo launched Caldora when they rented one of the largest cooperative wineries in the Abruzzo, outfitted it with new custom made technology specified by Ercolino, a winemaker obsessed with attaining the maximum expression of fruit in his wines, and then began fashioning the region's most prodigious wines from indigenous varietals. Look for lemon zest and fruit, green apple, almond, orange, peach hints. A very smooth, creamy palate. Crisp acidity with a bright finish.
Librandi Ciro.
The grape here is Gaglioppo, another indigenous grape. Duca San Felice Riserva offers rich aromas of Mediterranean fruits such as figs and dates, sour cherry and tobacco, followed by hints of chocolate. Spicy flavors come through on the palate and balanced tannins lend potential for aging. Full-bodied and well structured, Duca San Felice is best enjoyed with game, roasted meats, pot roast, dishes with spicy sauces, veal and aged cheese.
Recipes
For the Pecorino Saffron Risotto with Peas and Pea Shoots
Dusty saffron and the green peas of springtime are wonderful together and will taste even better with this months Italian white wine. Remember two key things: this dish is about the rice so keep the ratio of other ingredients to the rice in check. Too many ingredients and the risotto's texture will be compromised as it wont really cling together. Second, use homemade stock for risotto as the extra depth of homemade stock really makes a difference in the final product.
Add wine and cook the liquid completely absorbed. Add several ladles of hot stock or broth and reduce heat slightly.
Simmer, stirring frequently until liquid is absorbed. Continue to ladle broth into rice, stirring mixture after each time you add broth When the risotto is almost done, add the peas and stir. Add the pea shoots and stir until just wilted. This of course is the point at which all cooks depart from one another, as one cooks al dente is another cook's mush.therefore cook until it tastes good to you.
The consistency should be creamy but loose. I much prefer risotto a little too loose to one that is gloppy and heavy.) If the flavors of the risotto do not seem bright enough, squeeze a bit of lemon onto the plate before servingand garnish with some fresh grated Parm.
Stir in thyme and a few handfuls of grated cheese. Season your risotto with salt and pepper to your taste.
For the Gaglioppo Polenta Verde Calabrese
Calabrian cuisine is hearty peasant food with one of the mainstays being polenta. This dish is a one pot dinner. This colorful polenta dish is flavored with broccoli rabe and pancetta, and then is served with grilled sausages. ( I am assuming that most people have a favorite vendor or brand of sausage that they like to use.)
Bring 13 cups of water to a boil with a pinch of salt. Add the broccoli rabe and cook for a minute. Begin to add the cornmeal in a slow stream, stirring continuously. Simmer, and stir for about 25 minutes. Add the pancetta and red pepper flakes, and cook another 10 minutes or until tender. Season with the red pepper flakes. Once cooked, pour onto a board and leave for about 5 minutes. Polenta quickly sets up on a board and can cut into wedges. Serve each helping with some tasty grilled sausages.
- Caldora Colle de Vente Pecorino ($21)
- Librandi Ciro Riserva Ducale ($23)
Caldora Colle de Vente Pecorino Pecorino is one of the best known local varietals. Its name comes from the shape of the grape's bunches or clusters, which locals say resembles the head of a sheep. This special varietal is renowned for its complexity and outstanding aromatic profile. Yet, Pecorino is little known outside of Ortona as the grape is notoriously low yielding. Caldora is a new winery that began in 2003, as a partnership between Valentino Sciotti and renowned winemaker Mario Ercolino. This dynamic duo launched Caldora when they rented one of the largest cooperative wineries in the Abruzzo, outfitted it with new custom made technology specified by Ercolino, a winemaker obsessed with attaining the maximum expression of fruit in his wines, and then began fashioning the region's most prodigious wines from indigenous varietals. Look for lemon zest and fruit, green apple, almond, orange, peach hints. A very smooth, creamy palate. Crisp acidity with a bright finish.
Librandi Ciro. The grape here is Gaglioppo, another indigenous grape. Duca San Felice Riserva offers rich aromas of Mediterranean fruits such as figs and dates, sour cherry and tobacco, followed by hints of chocolate. Spicy flavors come through on the palate and balanced tannins lend potential for aging. Full-bodied and well structured, Duca San Felice is best enjoyed with game, roasted meats, pot roast, dishes with spicy sauces, veal and aged cheese.
Recipes
For the Pecorino Saffron Risotto with Peas and Pea Shoots
Dusty saffron and the green peas of springtime are wonderful together and will taste even better with this months Italian white wine. Remember two key things: this dish is about the rice so keep the ratio of other ingredients to the rice in check. Too many ingredients and the risotto's texture will be compromised as it wont really cling together. Second, use homemade stock for risotto as the extra depth of homemade stock really makes a difference in the final product.
- 1 quart homemade chicken broth
- Saffron
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 tablespoon butter
- 1 shallot, finely chopped
- 1 cup arborio or carnaroli rice
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- ½ cup of blanched English peas
- small handful of pea shoots
- Lemon( optional)
- 1/2 cup (3 handfuls) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
- fresh thyme
- Coarse salt and pepper
Add wine and cook the liquid completely absorbed. Add several ladles of hot stock or broth and reduce heat slightly.
Simmer, stirring frequently until liquid is absorbed. Continue to ladle broth into rice, stirring mixture after each time you add broth When the risotto is almost done, add the peas and stir. Add the pea shoots and stir until just wilted. This of course is the point at which all cooks depart from one another, as one cooks al dente is another cook's mush.therefore cook until it tastes good to you.
The consistency should be creamy but loose. I much prefer risotto a little too loose to one that is gloppy and heavy.) If the flavors of the risotto do not seem bright enough, squeeze a bit of lemon onto the plate before servingand garnish with some fresh grated Parm.
Stir in thyme and a few handfuls of grated cheese. Season your risotto with salt and pepper to your taste.
For the Gaglioppo Polenta Verde Calabrese
Calabrian cuisine is hearty peasant food with one of the mainstays being polenta. This dish is a one pot dinner. This colorful polenta dish is flavored with broccoli rabe and pancetta, and then is served with grilled sausages. ( I am assuming that most people have a favorite vendor or brand of sausage that they like to use.)
- 3-4 Cups Chopped, Cleaned Cima di Rape (Broccoli Rabe)
- 2 Cups Polenta
- 1/2 Cup Finely Chopped Pancetta, Cooked, Reserving Drippings
- Red Pepper Flakes
- 8-12 sausages
Bring 13 cups of water to a boil with a pinch of salt. Add the broccoli rabe and cook for a minute. Begin to add the cornmeal in a slow stream, stirring continuously. Simmer, and stir for about 25 minutes. Add the pancetta and red pepper flakes, and cook another 10 minutes or until tender. Season with the red pepper flakes. Once cooked, pour onto a board and leave for about 5 minutes. Polenta quickly sets up on a board and can cut into wedges. Serve each helping with some tasty grilled sausages.