Italian Wine Club
italian - March
This month we present an iconic Italian wine, Binomio Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, called by pundits "the finest Montepulicano d'Abruzzo ever made." We present the 2006 vintage, which I tasted on a recent Italian trip.
Binomio is the brainchild of two old friends: Stefano Inama from Azienda Agricola Inama in the Veneto and Sabatino Di Properzio from Fattoria la Valentina.
The idea was simple and born from their conviction that Montepulciano is a native Italian grape of extraordinary potential. High yields and sloppy vinification had robbed it of character in much the same way as Garganega's talents had been squandered in Soave. The Binomio vineyard – a stunning plot of old vine, organically farmed Montepulciano planted exclusively with the low-yielding ‘ Africa ' clone in 1971 – was purchased in 1999. 2002 marked the completion of the Binomio cellars complete with the latest steel fermentors and a spacious, climate-contolled barrel room.
Binomio 2001 was hailed by Wine Spectator as the greatest Montepulciano ever made and awarded 95 points. Last year, Binomio 2005 was voted Best Montepulciano of the Year from the Italian magazine “ Il Mio Vino “ and given 92 from Robert Parker.
The grapes are hand-harvested, sorted, 100% de-stemmed, crushed, and run into vertical, stainless steel fermentors. Maceration lasts a total of 35 days; free-run wine is run into new and second fill French oak barriques where it undergoes malo-lactic fermentation and then matures for 15 months. A strict selection of only the best barrels are given a light egg-white fining before blending in tank. It is bottled 24 months after harvest without filtration.
Deep dense intense ruby red color, with a purple rim and obvious viscosity. Intense nose with ripe black berry, cassis, wild strawberry and spices. Dry with high acidity and ripe tannins, pronounced fruit and great length.
RECIPE: Pork Shoulder and Tagliatelle Carbonara Serves 6
The use of cream and mushrooms is an indicator that this is an American version of the classic carbonara recipe. The original recipe possibly dates back to the Second World War and was a favorite dish with American soldiers stationed in Italy. I have also taken a few liberties by adding ground pork shoulder and Taleggio to this recipe.
18 ounces pancetta cut into lardons
1 pound pork shoulder, coarsely ground
10 cremini mushrooms, cleaned and finely chopped
¼ onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup grated Taleggio
1 cup heavy cream
2 large fresh eggs
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 pounds fresh tagliatelle pasta
½ cup chopped parsley
Heat a large pan over medium high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat has rendered and the pancetta is crispy. Add the ground pork shoulder and cook until brown. Add the mushrooms, onion and garlic and cook until the onion is translucent. Season with salt and pepper.
Whisk the cheese with the heavy cream, eggs and 1 teaspoon of ground black pepper; set aside until needed.
Meanwhile bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the tagliatelle and cook until al dente.
Drain the pasta and add to the meat. Next, stir in the cream mixture and parsley. Fold the pasta into the sauce. Cook a few minutes to thicken the sauce and coat the pasta.
Divide among six large dinner bowls with grated cheese on the side.

