This month we return to the Abruzzo region, and feature the wines of the Illuminati winery - Illuminati Costalupo Controguerra Bianco and Illuminati Riparosso Montepulciano
Costalupo is a delightful kitchen sink white wine - Chardonnay, Passerina, Riesling, Malvasia, and Trebbiano; all varietals which accentuate the most delightful fragrances in this wine. It has a brilliant straw-like color and a dry, fresh taste. The aroma is fruity, floral and delicate. Controguerra is a relatively new DOC in Abruzzo.
“Riparosso” is a D.O.C. wine made from 100% Montepulciano grape from the vineyards situated in the township of Controguerra at 300 meters above sea-level. The soil is comprised of a composite mixture tending towards a high argilla clay content. The name of this wine comes from the neighboring gullies known as “Ripe” and the soil, which verges on red (Rosso). 2 Bicchieri in Gambero Rosso three years in a row! The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide has Given it "Top 100 Best Buys" noting, " Dark ruby with purple highlights. Moderately light bodied. Full acidity. Reminiscent of cranberry, raspberry, cherry. Tart young red fruit with some grainy tannins on the palate.Texture is almost silky in the mouth. Good structure with pleasant cherry tartness on the finish."
The color is an intense ruby red with a distinct, pleasant vinous fragrance. The flavor is dry and savory with soft tannins.
The area around Controguerra and Nereto, situated on the North of the Abruzzo region, between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea, is endowed with a fortunate, natural position for its climate and renowned from ancient times for its typical wine vineyards.
It was here that Nico Illuminati, an impassioned master in the art of winemaking, lived during the latter half of the last century. Around the year 1890 he initiated the activity of wine production and set up the then known Estate of Nico - "Fattoria di Nico."
Today the Estate has become much larger under the guidance of Dino Illuminati, grandson of Nico. He has brought the family-owned winery to new heights with advanced wine technology, applying the same skilled craftsmanship of his illustrious grandfather, in an ideal fusion of the traditional and the modern.
The Estate vineyards extend over 150 acres of the finest terrain of the whole region. The nature of the terrain is a perfectly balanced mix of clay and sand with marked presence of siliceous substances (potash, magnesium, lime, and components of silicate). The terrain is loose, deep, and fertile on considerably high, hilly grounds, twelve hundred to fifteen hundred feet above sea level.
All of the vineyards have south/southwestern exposure. At present there are 150 acres of vineyards in production which makes the Estate the largest privately owned winery in the region. Of the 150 acres of vine-yards, 75 acres are of Montepulciano grape varietals for the production of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo red wine. Sixty acres are of Trebbiano grape varietals for the production of the Trebbiano d'Abruzzo white wine and 15 acres are of selected, experimental varietals. This is a commitment by Dino Illuminati to the upgrading of all of his varietals and the development of newly selected production of the proprietor's Reserve wines.
Dino Illuminati has won many awards, including the “Gran Canal” award at the Veneto Wine Festival; it is given to the “winemaker of the year” for outstanding work in experimentation and evolution of traditional and new varietal wines. He has also won the prestigious “Oscar” for national recognition as one of Italy’s finest wine makers, as well as the “Diploma di Medaglia d’Oro” for outstanding winemaker, at the Vinitaly Wine Expo in Verona.
RECIPES
Italian Seafood Stew serves 6-8
In this luscious, tomato-rich stew, New York chef, Marco Canora, cooks the calamari slowly until it becomes supertender. He says calamari is absolutely essential to the success of the dish, because it releases its liquid as it simmers, which adds a huge amount of flavor to the sauce. This dish pairs well with the bright, minerally flavors of this months Italian white!
* 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
* 1 fennel bulb, cored and finely chopped
* 2 celery ribs, finely chopped
* 1 white onion, finely chopped
* 1 tablespoon dried oregano (preferably Sicilian)
* Pinch of crushed red pepper
* 1 1/2 pounds cleaned squid—bodies cut into 1/2-inch rings, tentacles halved
* 2 cups dry white wine
* One 28-ounce can tomato puree
* 2 lemons—zest of one peeled in strips with a vegetable peeler, zest of the other finely grated
* Salt and freshly ground black pepper
* 2 cups water
* 1 cup bottled clam broth
* 12 ounces mussels, scrubbed
* 12 ounces littleneck clams, scrubbed
* 12 ounces shelled and deveined large shrimp
* 12 ounces skinless striped bass fillet, cut into 2-by-1-inch pieces
* 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
In a very large, enameled cast-iron casserole or Dutch oven, heat the 1/2 cup of olive oil. Add the fennel, celery, onion, oregano and crushed red pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are softened, about 15 minutes. Add the squid and cook over moderately low heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Stir in the wine and bring to a boil over moderately high heat. Cook until evaporated, about 20 minutes. Stir in the tomato puree and strips of lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper and cook over very low heat, stirring occasionally, until very thick, about 40 minutes.
Add the water and clam broth and bring to a boil. Remove and discard the lemon zest. Season the broth with salt and pepper. Add the mussels, clams and shrimp, cover and cook until most of the shells have opened, about 5 minutes. Add the striped bass and cook until opaque, about 2 minutes longer.
In a small bowl, combine the parsley with the grated lemon zest. Spoon the stew into deep bowls and sprinkle with the gremolata. Drizzle with olive oil and serve
For the red wine: Rabbit Stew with Red Wine serves 6-8
The recipe is from the late, celebrated chef Jean-Louis Palladin, formerly of Jean-Louis at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, D.C. His recollections of a childhood spent eating wild game and mushrooms inspired him to develop this dish.
* 4 tablespoons butter
* 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
* 2 2 1⁄2 pound rabbits, each cut into 6 pieces; hearts, kidneys, and livers reserved
* Salt and freshly ground black pepper
* 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
* 4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
* 1 leek (white part only), washed and trimmed
* 2 carrots, peeled
* 1 turnip, peeled
* 2 celery stalks
* 3 sprigs fresh rosemary
* 6 sprigs fresh thyme
* 1 bay leaf
* 3 1⁄3 cups dry red wine
* 4 cups Chicken Stock
* 1 pound pearl onions, peeled
* 1 tablespoon sugar
* 1⁄4 pound pancetta, julienned
* 1 pound small white mushrooms
Melt 2 tbsp. butter and 2 tbsp. oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Season rabbit with salt and pepper, then brown in batches, turning once, about 3 minutes per side. Remove rabbit with a slotted spoon and set aside. Reduce heat to medium, add onions and garlic, and cook until slightly softened, about 5 minutes.
Chop leek, carrots, turnip, and celery, and add to pan. Add rosemary, thyme, and bay leaf, and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables begin to brown, 7–10 minutes. Add wine and cook until reduced by two-thirds, about 15 minutes. Add stock and rabbit, cover, and cook for 25 minutes.
Remove rabbit with a slotted spoon and set aside. Increase heat to medium-high and simmer, skimming occasionally, until liquid is reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Add hearts, kidneys, and livers. Simmer until firm to the touch, about 5 minutes, then, using a slotted spoon, transfer to a food processor. Strain cooking liquid into food processor (discarding vegetables and herbs) and purée until smooth. Season sauce with salt and pepper and set aside.
Wipe out skillet, then add pearl onions, sugar, remaining butter, and 2 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium, and simmer until most of the water evaporates, about 15 minutes. Stir to coat onions in syrup, and cook, stirring, until onions begin to caramelize, 2–5 minutes. Heat remaining oil in a skillet over medium heat, add pancetta, and cook until crisp, about 8 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Increase heat to medium-high, add mushrooms, and sauté until golden, about 5 minutes.
To assemble, strain sauce through a fine sieve into large skillet. Add rabbit and warm over medium heat. Add pearl onions, pancetta, and mushrooms and heat through. Serve warm.
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