This month, we travel to Piedmont, home of the great  Nebbiolo grape, and Barbaresco and Barolo wines.

Possibly the greatest of Italian grapes and certainly the longest-lived. Nebbiolo grows almost exclusively in the northwestern reaches of  Italy, where it thrives in the DOCGs Barolo and Barbaresco. Nebbiolo ripens very late (usually mid October) and when fully ripe has abundant amounts of flavor, aroma, acidity and tannins.

The name Nebbiolo has two probable origins. Ripe nebbiolo grapes have a very prominent bloom that gives them a foggy or frosted look, so the name could come from from nebbia, Italian for fog.  It is an alternative possibility that the name simply comes from nobile, Italian for noble.

Barbaresco is a dry, elegant, full-bodied red wine, rich in tannin, with a very complex nose. At maturity, when it has fully developed for a few years, it reveals aromas of dry flowers, violets, white truffles, anise and more. In its youth it is closed in the mouth with nice, fruity aromas and a spicy, tannic finish. At maturity, the complexity of flavors opens up and the finish becomes smoother.

Traditionally drunk with game, meat, fowl, polenta, fonduta and white truffle dishes of the Piedmont, Barbaresco is a rich complement to many foods. The wine is long on the palate and, once opened, a bottle can be drunk over the course of three or four days.

This month's selection, Cantine Sociale del Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco DOCG (or more simply Produttori Barbaresco) is a great example of Barbaresco. 

The Cantine Sociale is a cooperative of growers in Barbaresco, and control most of the great vineyard sites in the DOCG.  Unlike many cooperatives, this winery is world class, and puts out amazing wines year after year. 

Generally, Barbaresci are more approachable than Barolos, so this month's selection can either be drunk now, or aged up to ten years.

Here's what Parker said about the wine:  " Once again, the Produttori have turned out a gem in their 2005 Barbaresco. A beautiful, perfumed Nebbiolo, the wine flows effortlessly from the glass with captivating notes of crushed flowers, raspberries, sweet herbs and spices. This classic, mid-weight Barbaresco possesses plenty of clean, bright fruit framed by elegant tannins, showing notable harmony. Simply put, this is a classic wine Piedmont lovers won’t want to miss. Ideally, the wine should be cellared for a few years, but readers will have a hard time exercising such patience."

Braised Rabbit with Salami, Kale and Olives   Serves 6

This is a great rabbit dish! Rich, satisfying, warm, and very easy to prepare. Even if there are only the two of you, this dish improves over time-just like the Barbaresco, so enjoy both over two or three days!

2 rabbits, jointed ****
For dusting: seasoned plain flour
1/2 cup) olive oil
12 ounces salami, thickly sliced
1 onion, finely chopped
4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1 cup dry white wine
3 cups chicken stock
1 cup, canned peeled tomatoes
3/4 cup cooked white beans
4 sprigs of rosemary, leaves removed and chopped
3/4 cup taggiasca olives ****
4 ounces cavolo nero (kale)

1 Preheat oven to 275F.
Dust rabbit pieces in seasoned flour, shaking off excess. Heat half the olive oil in a casserole over medium-high heat and cook half the rabbit pieces until golden (2-3 minutes each side). Remove from casserole, then repeat with remaining olive oil and rabbit. Add salami, onion and garlic to casserole and cook until golden (8-10 minutes). Deglaze with wine, then return rabbit to casserole and add chicken stock, tomato, white beans, rosemary and olives.Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and bake, covered with a lid, until rabbit is very tender (about 1½ hours). Stir in cavolo nero until wilted, season to taste and serve immediately.

***Rabbit is available from specialty butchers, such as Baron's in Alameda-you may need to order ahead. Ask the butcher to joint the rabbit for you. Taggiasca olives are small black Italian olives that are available from quality food stores. If unavailable, substitute with other small black olives such as Ligurian.

• < Prev
• Next >