I flipped when I tasted the Mumelter Santa Magddalener Classico from the Alto Adige (aka Sudtirol). Here's importer Oliver McCrum's notes:
"Some wines try to be impressive on their own, others make food taste good. I can't think of a better example of the second kind (my favorite kind) than Santa Maddalena. The best wines (called 'Classico') are grown in the amphitheater around the village. Georg Mumelter's vineyards are in this area, the winery just below it on the valley floor. At the end of my annual visit, Mumelter's wife Margareth sometimes serves a supper of cured meats, including the lightly smoked ham called Speck; their Santa Maddalena is the bottle that disappears first. Perhaps that is the most important test of a wine, that it is drunk first. ('Griesbauerhof' is the name of the farm; both the family name and the name of the farm can be used in the Alto Adige.) Made of Schiava (in German, Vernatsch) with a small amount of Lagrein, this wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel. Notes: pale red color; aroma of strawberries and tomato leaf, very appetising; the palate is bigger and more assertive than the color would suggest but still very drinkable. A faint hint of apple-skin bitterness on the finish adds to its appeal with food. It is delicious paired with most any pork dish, especially ham. I've also drunk it with grilled salmon."
I also loved the crisp flavors of Albarice Malvasia Istriana, Corno di Rosazzo. This unique grape varietal can trace its roots back to the Venetian republic. Imagine yourself a doge, enjoying not only the power of the world but the abundant fruits of the sea, sipping your own private stash of this fruity, dry and vibrant white wine. Harmonious and fresh, Malvasia suggests flavors of ripe apricots and white peaches; both brisk and sapid, it coats and enlivens the palate with a citrus finish. Wonderfully lively and fresh. 100% Malvasia Istriana, native to the Friuli hills.
Located near Corno di Rosazzo, not far from the Slovenian border in the Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC, Alberice enjoys a unique microclimate in addition to a richness of native varietals. The estate’s approx. 60 acres of vineyards curl and cut into the region’s many hillsides, cut ages ago by the local river Corno. Soils are a unique mix called “ponca,” a blend of volcanic soils and glacial debris that is incredibly mineral, giving Alberice wines (especially the whites) a pronounced, nervy edge.
Weather also contributes to the freshness and purity of wines from Alberice. Standing at the ridge of one of the estate’s many hillside vineyards, you can feel the cooling winds from the Alps in your face; the moderate sea influence from the Gulf of Trieste too keeps the region cool. This special combination means grapes at Alberice are harvested a good week or two later than surrounding regions, resulting in more concentration and better balance in each bottle.
Recipes (from Andy Carthy)
For the Malvasia: Marinated Halibut with Salmoriglio Sauce Serves 4
The fruity, dry and vibrant flavors the Albarice Malvasia will more than stand up to the lush Salmoriglio sauce. The baking and grilling times for the fish are approximate;the thickness of the fillets will determine how long to cook the fish.
Fish:
* White vinegar
* 2 pounds of halibut fillets, with or without skin
* Salt
* 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
* 1/3 cup fine, dry bread crumbs
* 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salmoriglio Sauce:
* 2 tablespoons thyme leaves
* 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
* 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
* Salt
* 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
* 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Prepare the Fish: Pour a little vinegar over the fish fillets, then rinse them under cold, running water. Pat the fillets dry with paper towels and arrange them on an ovenproof glass or ceramic platter. Rub a little salt over the skinless sides of the fillets and sprinkle with the lemon juice. Spread half of the bread crumbs over the fillets and drizzle them with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil; turn the fillets and repeat with the remaining bread crumbs and olive oil. Cover and let marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the Salmoriglio Sauce: In a mini food processor, combine the thyme leaves, lemon juice, mustard and salt. Pulse for 1 minute. Add the butter and process until completely smooth. With the machine on, add the olive oil in a thin, constant stream until fully incorporated. Season the sauce with salt and pour into a sauceboat.
Preheat the oven to 400° or light a grill. Bake the fish on the platter until just cooked through, about 12 to 15 minutes. Alternatively, grill the fish, skin side down for skin-on fillets, for about 5 minutes; turn the fillets and grill just until they flake, about 4 minutes longer. Transfer the fish to a platter. Pour the salmoriglio sauce over the fish fillets and serve.
For the Santa Maddalena Potato Gnocchi with Piave Fondue Serves 6-8
Making your own gnocchi is a little time consuming, but well worth the effort. This recipe will yield you more gnocchi than you may need, so leave what you think you will use on the floured baking sheet and freeze. Once they are set the gnocchi can be stored in freezer bags until you need them again. Remember to grab some Piave when you pick up your Italian club wines!
- 2 pounds russet potatoes
- 4 cups kosher salt
- 1-2 cups flour
- 3 egg yolks
- 1 tablespoon chopped chives
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 1-teaspoon white truffle oil
- 1 cup grated Piave cheese
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Grated Piave cheese for garnish
Pour the kosher salt unto a baking sheet and create a bed wide enough to hold the potatoes. Bake potatoes at 350 degrees for about one hour until tender when pierced with a knife. Scoop out the flesh and push through a ricer or food mill fitted with a fine disk unto a floured work surface. Make a well in the center of the potatoes and add half the flour and all the eggs. Season with a little salt and pepper and mix, adding a little flour all the time until the dough begins to come together. You will need to work quickly to prevent the dough from getting cold. Finally add the chives and fold into a ball.
Taking a little piece of the dough at a time, roll into a ½” thick rope and cut into 1” pieces. Lay the pieces on a paper lined and floured baking sheet, keeping apart to prevent them sticking together.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi and cook gently for 3 to 4 minutes.
Meanwhile make the fondue; put the cream and truffle oil into a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cheese until smooth. It should thick but pourable. Strain to remove any lumps and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi to the warm fondue and toss gently to coat. Divide among 4 large dinner plates and sprinkle with the grated Piave.
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