This month, we've got four wines with Thanksgiving in mind - a spicy organic Gewürztraminer, a lively organic Beaujolais, an organic Spanish red, and a deep and rich Petite Sirah!  As always, I recommend getting all four!

First off is Dom. Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Lot 17O, 2009  Each year Zind-Humbrecht produces some of Alsace’s most sumptuous and sought-after wines. The property is managed by Olivier Humbrecht, one of the world’s only winemakers to attain M.W. status and a passionate and intelligent advocate for the wines of Alsace and the benefits of Organic and Biodynamic farming. Under his guidance this legendary estate produces pure, powerful, racy bottlings that are astonishingly faithful to their individual vineyard sites.

"I don't know what is more mind-boggling, the quality of Domaine Zind Humbrecht's wines or Olivier Humbrecht's complete dedication to quality. This tall, powerful, and intellectual man may well be the finest winemaker in the world." Robert Parker

Olivier Humbrecht:  "It really was mentally difficult to follow up 2008 and 2007, two of our greatest Gewürztraminer vintages in the history of our estate. Gewürztraminer is a curious grape variety, because it needs lots of sunshine and heat to complete perfect physiological ripeness, but then needs to grow slowly in order to acquire complex flavors. All this seems contradictory, except in Alsace! Surely 2009 offered perfect ripening conditions, almost too good as sugars could rise quickly. For us, the profile of the vintage was very favorable to Gewürztraminer, however, in some vineyards, excessive sweetness could be wrong as acids were lower. 2009 was a record breaking vintage in Alsace for the production of late harvest wines, but we felt that in some vineyards harvesting too late would bring out the worst of this grape: heavy cloying style. This wine comes partly from the Herrenweg vineyard and also from Wintzenheim. It was clearly a wine that was constructed and blended in order to achieve a certain style."

"Crackling acidity sets up this dry, aromatic version, with layered flavors of lychee, fleur de sel, orange peel and smoke, joined by a hint of cantaloupe. Finely meshed, building in intensity toward the minerally fisnish, with lots of lingering white pepper notes. The L170 in small print in the lower left corner of the label distinguishes this from the otherwise identical label of the L17N."  92 points, Wine Spectator

"The Zind-Humbrecht 2009 Gewürztraminer Lot 170 (along with its modestly sweet counterpart L17N) incorporates most of this year-s crop from the Herrenweg; the entire crop of the small but often distinguished village parcels in Turckheim and Wintzenheim; plus young vines from the Hengst. At 3,000 cases, it and the L17N constitute a volume three times the usual for generic Z-H Gewurz. Like the corresponding Pinot Gris, this finished dry at 14% alcohol, yet not only does it retain a fine sense of primary fruit juiciness, it also displays buoyancy that borders on delicacy. That-s not to say the oily richness or sense of inner-mouth expansiveness one expects from its genre are missing. Celery root, brown spices, and rose petal abound in this charmer, with pungent hints of catnip and pepper adding stimulation to an unusually refreshing finish. A small-scale triumph for its vintage which might well keep longer, I would still relish this wine-s youthful allure over the next couple of years."  90 points, David Schildknecht, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

Dom. Jean-Paul Dubost Brouilly Vielles Vignes, 2009/2010  Brouilly is one of the 10 named `Cru` villages of Beaujolais, the best vineyards of the region. ounded in 1902, The Domaine is a family-owned estate, now managed by Jean-Paul Dubost. This great wine lover thinks that  “wine is never made by chance”. He has been studying the contributions and impact of the different wood species on some tanks. He is also interested in grapes such as Viognier in his Beaujolais surroundings. Destemming and ageing a la Burgundy allow full extraction of aromas and show the finesse of the delicate Gamay.

The Bruyère vineyard is planted on a combination of mineral rich granite and schist soils, which influence the wine complexity. It is ripe with red fruits and rounded tannins, and shows exceptional concentration from low yielding 80-year-old Gamay vines.

"Vivid purple. An initially reticent bouquet opens to show spicy red and dark berry scents, along with notes of spicecake and musky herbs. Lively and precise on the palate, offering racy raspberry and blackcurrant flavors that put on weight with air. Finishes with impressive energy and lingering floral and mineral nuances; this will age on its balance. 91 points, Josh Reynolds, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Joan d'Anguera Montsant La Planella, 2009 One of the most exciting producers emerging out of Spain is Joan d'Anguera. Located in the D.O. of Montsant, this family estate dates back 200 years. Montsant, formerly part of the Tarragona D.O., is found in the heart of the Tarragona region. Surrounding the famous D.O.Q. of Priorat, Montsant is southwest of Barcelona.

The vineyards lie at an altitude of 200 to 300 meters on clay and calcareous soils. The majority of the Syrah and Cabernet plantings are now more than 20 years old, and the Grenache and Carignan are more than 50 years old.

The two sons, Josep and Joan, of the late patriarch, Josep Anguera, run this domain under the vigilant eye of their mother. Their intention is to produce the best Syrah-based wines of Spain. Known as "Mister Syrah" in Spain, Josep (the father) was a man with an extensive knowledge of the international wine scene. Introduced to Syrah by a Spanish enologist who had traveled to California in the 1970s, Josep started planting the grape in 1977 anywhere he could find vineyard space.

Joan d’Anguera produces three wines that each explore a different perspective of their land. Planella is their expression of Carignan, Finca l'Argata is their expression of Grenache from a parcel of the same name, and Bugader reflects their oldest parcels of Syrah.

The Anguera brothers strive to work as naturally possible, both in the winery and vineyard. As such, all fermentation is done with indigenous yeast. Also, in 2008 the winery began its switch to biodynamic agriculture, and it expects to be certified by 2011.

"The 2009 Planella is a blend of 40% Mazuelo (Carinena), 20% Syrah, 20% Garnatxa, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 11 months in French and American oak. Deep purple in color, it exhibits an inviting nose of cedar, mineral, balsamic, lavender, leather, and assorted black fruits. Rich, layered, and succulent on the palate, it will evolve for 2-3 years and offer prime drinking from 2013 to 2021.  90 points, Jay Miller, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate"

Foppiano Vineyards Petite Sirah Few wineries have Foppiano’s extensive history, and are still family owned and operated. Since 1896, when Giovanni Foppiano bought the Riverside Farm on Old Redwood Highway, the
Foppianos have been a part of the wine industry, and calling the Russian River Valley “home.”  The Foppiano family is best known for its flagship wine Petite Sirah. A leader in the education of Petite Sirah with trade and media, Foppiano instituted the well-attended Petite Sirah Symposia, and is a founder of P.S. I Love You, Inc., the advocacy group for Petite Sirah.

Established in 1896, and more than 100 years after its founding, Foppiano Vineyards continues to do what it did at its outset; create outstanding red wines with genuine varietal character, on its 200-acre Russian River Valley estate. This tradition is the foundation and the future for the Foppiano family’s commitment to their second century of excellence.

On the nose, robust blackberry and dark chocolate are the predominant aromatics with a touch of anise and white pepper. The fruity aromas follow on the tongue, commingled with full-bodied black cherry, blueberry, hints of dark toasted hazelnuts and sweet vanilla. The well-managed, even tannins produce a long, silky finish with luscious black fruits to the end. Pair this rich wine with grilled or roasted lamb chops, braised meats, dark chocolate desserts, or hearty, aged cheeses such as Asiago, Parmesan Reggiano or Gouda.

Recipes: 

For the Gewurz.  Choucroute Garnie. Serves 4-6.

This is the clasic pairing with Alsatian Gewurz. The recipe is complex, but the results are worth it! 

Ingredients for 6 servings:

    5 pounds fresh sauerkraut,
    1/4 cup duck or goose fat or peanut oil,
    1 large onion, coarsely chopped,
    3 cloves garlic, chopped,
    8 juniper berries,
    1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns,
    3 cloves,
    2 bay leaves,
    2 cups dry white wine, preferably Riesling or Sylvaner,
    1 cup chicken stock,
    12 ounce chunk of unsmoked bacon,
    6 of each different sausages (frankfurter, bratwurst, knockwurst, etc.),
    2 ham hocks, scored,
    12 medium potatoes.


1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Rinse the sauerkraut in cold water, drain and squeeze dry.

2. In a large heavy pot or Dutch oven, melt the fat or peanut oil, add the onion and garlic and cook over medium heat, stirring, until softened, about 7 minutes.

3. Stir in the sauerkraut, juniper berries, bay leaves, cloves, black pepper, stock and wine and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the ham hocks and the bacon, cover the pot, place in the oven and bake for 1 1/2 hour, undisturbed.

4. When the meats are tender, remove from oven, imbed the sausages in the sauerkraut. Cover the pot and return it to the oven until they are hot, about 25 minutes. Discard the bay leaves.

5. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, cover the potatoes with cold water, add salt and bring to a boil over high heat; cook the potatoes until tender when pierced. Drain the potatoes and cover to keep warm.

6. To serve, pile the sauerkraut on a large heated platter and garnish with the meats, sausages and potatoes. Serve very hot with assorted mustards.

For the Beaujolais:  Roasted Turkey Breast with Pan Gravy.  Serves 4

Turkey and Beaujolais, is there a better pairing? 

    1 small (golf-ball sized) onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
    1 lemon, scrubbed clean
    12 fresh sage leaves
    Large handful fresh flat-leaf parsley (about 1/2 cup, from 12 stems)
    3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for oiling pan
    1 teaspoon salt, plus more as needed
    6 fresh bay leaves
    4 tablespoons butter
    2 boneless turkey breast halves, skin on (about 2 to 2 1/2 pounds each)
    Freshly ground black pepper
    3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
    1/4 cup apple or regular brandy (recommended: Calvados)
    2 to 3 cups apple cider
    Salt and pepper

Directions

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Oil a roasting pan and set it aside.

Put the onion into the bowl of a mini food processor. Using a vegetable peeler, peel the zest from the lemon in thin strips, being careful not to cut into the bitter white pith. Add the lemon zest to the food processor and reserve the whole lemon for another use. Chop the onion and lemon zest until fine. Add the sage, parsley, olive oil, and 1 teaspoon salt and pulse until it forms a coarse paste.

Put 2 of the bay leaves and the butter into a small pan and heat over medium-low heat until the butter is bubbling. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Put the turkey breasts on a work surface. Carefully run your fingers between the skin and the flesh from 1 end, being careful not to pull it completely off, creating a pocket. Season the turkey breasts generously with salt and pepper. Stuff half of the herb paste under the skin of each breast, and spread it evenly under the skin. Transfer the breasts to the roasting pan, and slide 2 bay leaves underneath each one. (The heat of the pan will release the bay leaf oils and flavor the breast.) Using a pastry brush, baste the breasts with half of the bay butter. Place the turkey in the oven and immediately decrease the temperature to 400 degrees F. After 20 minutes, baste the turkey breasts with the remaining butter, and roast for an additional 20 to 25 minutes, until cooked through, and a thermometer placed in the thickest part of the breast registers 170 degrees F.

Remove from the oven, transfer to a platter, cover, and let rest for 10 minutes before carving while you make the gravy.

Put the roasting pan over the burner on medium heat. Sprinkle the flour over the pan juices, and cook, stirring, for a few minutes. Add the apple brandy, and scrape the pan to lift the bits that are stuck to the bottom. Cook for a minute to burn off the alcohol, then, while stirring, pour in the apple cider. Bring to a simmer, and stir until thickened. Season with salt and pepper.

Slice the turkey breast on the diagonal, and serve with warm gravy.

For the Carignan: Rabbit with Aioli - serves four

Rabbit is a very popular dish in Spain and is prepared many different ways. Fried in garlic-infused olive oil, this rabbit dish is simple and delicious. Drizzle aioli over the pieces of rabbit and this is truly a garlic lover's dish. Rabbit meat is very nutritious and has a lower percentage of fat than chicken, turkey, beef, or pork.

Ingredients:

    aioli sauce (recipe below)
    4 sprigs Italian (flat leaf) parsley
    1 rabbit, approximately 2-3 lbs, cut into 8-10 pieces
    2 heads garlic
    16 oz Spanish olive oil (approximately)
    salt to taste

Prepare aioli, which takes about 10 minutes. Whirl parsley and aioli together. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Purchase a whole rabbit and ask the butcher to cut into 8-10 pieces, or cut it yourself. Rinse pieces and pat dry with a paper towel. Remove excess skin from garlic by rubbing it.

Frying the garlic in the oil infuses it with garlic flavor. Pour olive oil into a casserole pan or large, heavy-bottomed fry pan that is at least 3-4 inches deep. Oil should be at least 1.5 to 2 inches deep. Heat oil on medium. When hot, place the heads of garlic in the pan and fry on medium-low heat for about 5 minutes. Remove and allow to drain on a paper towel.

Turn up heat to medium so oil is hot enough to fry rabbit. Rub salt onto pieces of rabbit on all sides. When oil is hot, add pieces of rabbit to pan. Fry for 7 minutes or until rabbit is golden brown. Remove and let drain on paper towels.

Cut garlic heads in half. Serve rabbit with aioli on the side and fried garlic cloves.

Aioli

This sauce originated in Cataluna and has spread all over Spain. The name comes from the Catalan words for the two main ingredients all (garlic) and oli (oil). It is quick, easy and very flavorful, so it is easy to understand why it is so popular in Spain. Serve it with meats, fish, or vegetables - or just spread it on bread. The Spanish also use it as an ingredient in main course recipes. This recipe makes about 1 1/2 cups and uses 2 egg yolks.

    4 medium to large garlic cloves
    salt to taste
    2 egg yolks
    1 1/2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
    1 cup extra virgin Spanish olive oil

Preparation:

Peel and mince the garlic. Using the flat side of a large knife, crush the garlic. Place in a small mortar and pestle and add ½ tsp salt and smash into a paste.

An alternative to save time is to use a good garlic press that peels and mashes the garlic in one step. Either way, you can use a mortar and pestle to mash the garlic into a paste.

Crack the eggs and separate the yolks into a small mixing bowl. Transfer the garlic paste to the bowl and whisk to blend. With a hand mixer on low speed, slowly pour in the olive oil in a THIN, steady stream until a creamy sauce forms. Add the touch of lemon juice slowly at the end, while keeping the mixer on to ensure that the sauce stays smooth.

The traditional version of this sauce did not have egg yolks, but the yolks make it easier to whip.

For the Petite Sirah:  Braciolona - Serves 6
    3 pound(s) boneless pork shoulder or leg, butterflied and pounded to yield 1 large 1/2-inch thick and 12-inch square
    Kosher salt
    Freshly ground black pepper
    1/2 cup finely chopped Italian parsley
    1/4 cup pine nuts, baked for 8 minutes in a 400-degree F oven
    1/2 cup  dried currants
    3/4 cups freshly grated young pecorino cheese
    16 slices prosciutto di Parma (about 1/2 pound)
    4  hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered lengthwise
    Several gratings of nutmeg
    4 tablespoon(s) dried oregano
    1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
    2  red onions, cut into 1/4-inch dice
    4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
    2 cups dry white wine
    3 cans (28-ounce) San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand, juices included
    2 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes
    2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley
    2 pounds ziti (optional), cooked until al dente

Directions

    Lay the pork on a cutting board and season with salt and pepper. In a mixing bowl, stir together 1/2 cup parsley, pine nuts, currants, and 1/2 cup of the pecorino and season with salt and pepper.
    Lay the prosciutto slices over the pork piece to cover completely. Sprinkle the parsley mixture evenly over the prosciutto. Arrange the eggs in two rows across the meat. Grate nutmeg over the entire piece and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the oregano, rubbing it between your fingers to release the essential oils. Carefully roll the piece up like a jellyroll and tie firmly with butcher twine in several places. Season the roll with salt and pepper. (The tied roll can be refrigerated for a day or two.)
    In an 8-quart Dutch oven, heat the oil until smoking. Carefully brown the pork roll on all sides, taking your time to get a deep golden brown; this should take about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the meat and set aside.
    Add the onions, remaining 2 tablespoons of oregano, and the garlic to the pan and cook until light golden brown and soft, 9 to 11 minutes. Add the wine, tomatoes, and pepper flakes and bring to a boil. Return the pork to the pan and simmer partially covered for 1 hour 20 minutes, moving occasionally to avoid sticking.
    Transfer the pork to a cutting board and remove the butcher twine carefully. Slice the braciolona 3/4-inch thick with a very sharp knife. Arrange like shingles on a warm platter and sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cups of grated pecorino and 2 tablespoons chopped parsley. Cover and keep warm if serving after pasta course.

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