This month, we present four wines that I discovered in South Africa this Spring, all from the amazing Mullineux Family Winery of the Swartland region of South Africa.  

In May of this year, I travelled to South Africa with friend, wine importer and Master Sommelier Fran Kysela and five other intrepid wine professionals.  While we hit all of the South African wine route hotspots like Franschhoek Valley, Paarl and Stellenbosch , we were based outside of the touristed Capetown region in the Swartland, about an hour north of the city.

Fran believes (and now so do I) that some of South Africa's  most exciting wines (and winemaking) are coming out of the Swartland, a heretofore overlooked wine region, centered around the dusty town of Riebeek-Kasteel.  

Chris and Andrea Mullineux are certainly at the eye of a winemaking revolution there - espousing terroir, native yeasts and non-interventionist winemaking techniques, and producing wines that are lighting up the score boards, that pundits are calling a "winery to watch."

Chris and Andrea met while working at Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards. Chris, a native South African, and Andrea, from Woodside, eventually married and in 2007 left Tulbagh to start their own project in the Swartland district.

Chris' love of Rhône varietals was inspired by the time he spent learning winemaking at Château Pibarnon in Bandol, Roc d'Anglade in the Languedoc and Sine Qua Non in California (he also worked at de Trafford and Rustenberg in South Africa). Andrea earned her stripes while working at California's Cakebread and Viader wineries before heading to Château Mont-Redon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and ultimately to South Africa.

The duo sources grapes from numerous vineyard parcels (totaling 30 acres) throughout the Swartland and produce around 4,000 cases annually. The Syrah is a juicy, ripe, plum fruit-filled version, with a bright mineral streak; the white combines Chenin Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, Viognier and Grenache Blanc to make a delicious melon-, peach- and persimmon-filled wine; the straw wine, made from air-dried Chenin Blanc grapes, is one of the country's top dessert wines.

Kloof Street Chenin Blanc  Winemaker's notes:  Grapes for our 2011 white blend come from three vineyard parcels in different parts of the Swartland: One parcel of 29 year-old Chenin blanc planted in the stony Shale and Schist based soils of Riebeek Kasteel Mountain, and two parcels of 40+ year-old dry land, bush vine Chenin grown in the decomposed Granite of the Paardeberg mountain. We lease each parcel on a long term basis, and have close and direct involvement in their viticultural management.
production : 850 cases 

The 2011 Kloof Street Chenin Blanc is sourced from younger vines up to 30 years in age, 80% tank fermented and 20% in old wood. The bouquet is fresh and lively with bundles of fresh fruit such as pineapple, guava and a squeeze of lemon. The palate has quite a creamy texture that makes it feel as if it has been aged in new oak: very smooth and harmonious with lime, pineapple and a dash of spice on the finish. This represents a good value Swartland Chenin for immediate drinking. Drink now.

Mullineux White  80% Chenin, 10% Clairette Blanche, 10% Viognier.
"The Swartland is blessed with an abundance of old vine Chenin, and we use this as the backbone of our white blend. We then add several small parcels of Mediterranean varieties for complexity, balance and aromatic lift."

"The 2010 White Blend consists of 80% Chenin Blanc, 10% Viognier and 10% Clairette fermented and aged in old French barrels for 12 months during which it goes through complete malo. It has an exquisite bouquet with notes of grapefruit, honeysuckle, melted candle wax and a hint of jasmine. The palate is well-balanced with a lovely, creamy textured entry. Racy from start to finish with just a dash of spice, dried honey, mango and orange zest and impressive persistence, this is a superb Chenin Blanc blend. Drink now-2018. 91 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Mullineux Syrah "Sourced from six vineyards to represent the different terroirs of Swartland, the 2009 Syrah was 20% whole cluster fruit and it was raised in 10% new oak for 12 months. The nose is taciturn at first but a few swirls of the glass soon wakes it up with enticing scents of dark berried fruit, a dash of white pepper and kalamata olive that opens nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with plump blackberry, boysenberry and a touch of black plum with very fine acidity. This leads to a caressing, fleshy finish that belies the structure underneath. Classic in style, reserved but ambitious, the 2009 Syrah should repay several years aging. Drink 2013-2018." 92pts Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 

Kloof Street Rouge Winemaker's Notes:  Grapes for our 2009 Kloof Street red were sourced from six vineyard parcels in different parts of the Swartland: One parcel of Mourvedre grown on the rolling, iron-rich soils west of Malmesbury; one parcel of Syrah and one parcel of Cinsault planted in the stony Shale and Schist based soils of Riebeek Kasteel Mountain; and one parcel of dry land, bushvine Syrah, one Carignan, and one Grenache all grown in the decomposed Granite of the Paardeberg mountain. Vines are aged between 12 and 40 years. We lease each parcel on a long term basis, and have close and direct involvement in their viticultural management.  production : 330 cases

"A blend of 73% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, 8% Cinsault, 4% Carignan and 2% Grenache, the 2009 Kloof Street Rouge is sourced from 10-15 year old vines. The nose is very pure and ebullient with blackberry and cassis fruit that is succinct and defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, ripe blackberry, boysenberry and a citrus edge lending the finish sharpness and definition. This is very well crafted and offers great value."  89 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

RECIPES:  South African Braai

The word braaivleis is Afrikaans for grilled meat. The word braai (plural braaie) is Afrikaans for "barbecue" or "grill" and is a social custom in Botswana, South Africa, Namibia, Lesotho, Zimbabwe and Zambia. The term originated with the Afrikaner people, but has since been adopted by South Africans of many ethnic backgrounds. The word vleis is Afrikaans for "meat".

The word has been adopted by English-speaking South Africans and can be regarded as another word for barbecue, in that it serves as a verb when describing how food is cooked and a noun when describing the cooking equipment, such as a grill. The traditions around a braai can be considerably different from a barbecue, however, even if the method of food preparation is very similar.

Braai Day is a celebration of South Africa's rich cultural heritage and its unique national pastime, the braai. It aims to unite all South Africans by encouraging them to partake in a fun and tangible activity shared by all demographic groups, religious denominations and body types. Braai Day is celebrated annually by South Africans across the world on September 24.

Here's some Braai recipes: 

White wine:  Recipe: Grilled Whole Fish with Curried Yogurt Marinade Serves 4

Western coast cooks are masters of the fish braai (barbecue). This recipe, with its marinade and sweet spices, reflects the Cape Malay cooking style.

    1 1/2 cups plain whole milk yogurt
    1/2 cup chopped cilantro
    2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
    1 tablespoon curry powder
    1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
    1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
    Four 1 1/4-pound sea bass or pompano, pan-dressed
    Salt and freshly ground pepper

    In a medium bowl, mix the yogurt with the cilantro, lime juice, curry powder, ginger and olive oil.
    Make 3 crosswise slashes on both sides of each fish, cutting down to the bone. Transfer the fish to a large rimmed baking sheet and coat all over with the yogurt marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.
    Light a grill. Oil the grate. Remove the fish from the marinade, leaving on a light coating; reserve the marinade. Season the fish with salt and pepper and grill over a medium-hot fire, basting with the marinade, until lightly charred and just cooked through, about 10 minutes per side. Serve right away.
 

Red Wine: Dried Apricot and Lamb Sosaties  Serves 8

Sosaties, South African kebabs, are among the most popular dishes at an braai. Lamb sosaties are the national favorite, but beef, pork and chicken are also common. The meat or poultry is marinated in a spicy curry sauce, then grilled until crisp on the outside but still moist and tender inside. The dish has its roots in Malay cuisine (sosatie comes from the Malay words sate, meaning spiced sauce, and sesate, meaning skewered meat); similar dishes are part of the Javanese fijsttafel.

Recipe: Dried Apricot and Lamb Sosaties

    1/2 cup strained apricot jam
    1/3 cup white wine vinegar or rice wine vinegar
    1/4 cup water
    2 1/2 tablespoons curry powder
    2 garlic cloves, minced
    2 teaspoons kosher salt
    2 teaspoons ground coriander
    1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
    4 whole cloves
    4 allspice berries
    1 bay leaf
    1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
    1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
    1 1/2 pounds trimmed boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes
    24 dried apricots (about 7 ounces)
    Boiling water

    In a medium saucepan, combine the jam, vinegar, water, curry powder, garlic, salt, coriander, ginger, cloves, allspice, bay leaf, cumin and pepper. Bring to a boil, then simmer over low heat for 5 minutes. Let the marinade cool completely.
    2. Put the lamb in a large glass baking dish, add the marinade and toss to coat evenly. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours, tossing the meat 2 or 3 times.
    In a small heatproof bowl, cover the apricots with boiling water and let plump for 1 hour; drain before using. Soak eight 8-inch bamboo skewers in water.
    Thread the lamb cubes and apricots onto the skewers, using 3 apricots per skewer. Return the skewers to the marinade for up to 2 hours.
    Light the grill or preheat the broiler. Grill or broil the skewers for 12 to 15 minutes, basting and turning occasionally, until the lamb is still slightly pink inside. Serve at once.

Make Ahead The marinade can be refrigerated, covered, for up to 1 day.

Red Wine: Papaya-Marinated Steak  Serves 4

Grilled steak is the star of many a braai. Here the meat is lightly coated with a rub, then marinated between papaya skins, which act as a tenderizer.

    2 scallions, minced
    1 tablespoon English dry mustard
    1 teaspoon minced thyme leaves
    3/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
    1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
    One 1 3/4 -pound flank steak
    Skins of 2 ripe medium papayas, halved lengthwise, with 1/8 inch of the flesh left on them
    2 tablespoons vegetable oil
    Kosher salt
    Malay Onion Sambal

    In a small bowl, combine the scallions, mustard, thyme, pepper and ginger. Rub the mixture evenly on both sides of the steak.
    Put 2 of the papaya skin halves in a glass baking dish, flesh side up. Add the steak and top with the remaining 2 papaya skins, flesh side down; the skins should cover the surface of the meat. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
    Light the grill or preheat the broiler. Discard the papaya skins. Lightly oil both sides of the steak and season with salt. Grill or broil the steak, turning once, for about 10 minutes, or until medium rare.

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