Classic Wine Club

Classic Club - 8th Allocation

This is our third go round with the Héritiers Mâcon.  100% Chardonnay, organically and biodynamically farmed.  Dominique Lafon's biodynamically farmed Héritiers de Comte Lafon Macon-Village.  Considered one of the finest winemakers in France, Dominique Lafon produces coveted white Burgundies from some of the greatest vineyards in the Côte de Beaune.

Always hungry for new challenges, he purchased 14 hectares of vines in the Maconnais in 1999. He believes strongly in the potential of the region, but feels that too few vignerons have attempted to realize that potential. Thus, in the very same spirit he runs his renowned Meursault property, Dominique utilizes biodynamic viticulture, intense soil rejuvenation, tight yield control, and rigorous green harvesting to produce some of the most complex, vibrant and impressive wines the region has ever seen. 

The Macon Village bottling is comprised of village level fruit from those vineyards that do not go into a single vineyard bottlings.  Good linear mineral expression with very round, buttery fruit.  Excellent immediate drinking over the next 2 years. 100% Chardonnay, 100% limited 100% fabulous.

Next up is Pali Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Bluffs.  Pali is short for "Pacific Palisades," a toney Los Angeles neighborhood that overlooks the Pacific Ocean just north of Santa Monica, but this wine is crafted from grapes harvested in the Russian River Valley. Black cherry and sweet raspberry perfume contrast with softer scents of sage and lavender. On the palate, metallic notes intermix with bright blueberry and cherry flavors. Undertones of espresso and sea salt melt into a powerful finish. 

Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley is one of the finest growing regions in California for Pinot Noir. The cool microclimate of the valley allows the grapes to develop slowly. It is the slow ripening that allows the grape to develop deeper and more concentrated flavors. Couple the favor development on the vine with careful selection of the fruit from top vineyards, slow fermentation and aging for 10 months in French oak barrels and you have Pali “Bluffs” Russian River Pinot Noir Blend. This glorious wine exhibits a broad spectrum of flavors, with cherries and berries being the most prominent. There are also many other flavors lying in the background with oak and an earthy mushroom flavor being the most obvious. This very well made, medium bodied wine is drinkable now or can be laid down for as long as five years, to gain additional complexity and depth.

We offered Arianna Occhipinti's SP68 Rosso in last year's Italian club, and it was an immediate hit with both staff and customers.   SP68 Rosso is a biodynamically farmed Nero d'Avola and Frappato blend from Sicily.   Arianna Occhipinti is from the Vittoria region of Southern Sicily. She has been making wine for ten years under the tutelage of her uncle, Giusto Occhipinti, who owns the well-known winery COS. She produces first rate wines from biodynamically grown local varieties such as Nero d’Avola and Frappato. In her mid-20s, Arianna already seems to know exactly what she wants to do with her life. She is the sort of driven young winemaker who is bound to be become an important figure in Sicilian wine.

Frappato is a local Sicilian red grape variety that always seems to yield wines loaded with fresh raspberry aromatics. Arianna’s Frappato is already legendary — and that status is very well deserved. The SP68 is a blend of Frappato and Nero di Avola. The SP68 name comes from a highway near Arianna’s home town of Vittoria.
Bright ruby in color. Focused aromatics  of raspberry, cherry and garrigue. On the palate, sour black cherry and rasberry with stony earth and a little twizzler. Great depth, purity and balance. Reminded me of a Gamay with a little extra meatiness. Very approachable — certainly a serious wine, but a lot of fun to drink. A perfect summer wine to serve with a slight chill with BBQ or a great pairing with lamb.

And the name?  SP68 is the name of the main road that passes near to Arianna’s home town of Vittoria.

Finally, another old friend (the fifth club appearance for this wine!) Saracina Winery's Atrea Old Soul Red blend - made by Alex McGregor and David Ramey from organically farmed Zinfandel, Syrah, Petit Syrah and Malbec grapes. 

I've never understood why this wine isn't a runaway cult favorite like Orin Swift's The Prisoner.  The wine has depth, flavor, balance, a sense of terroir.  Plus it's mighty tasty, organic, goes with many foods, and is easy to appreciate. 

Dark ruby in color, this wine's nose reveals ripe strawberry and red raspberry fruit, mocha, a hint of white pepper and a side note of classic Malbec baking spices.  The flavors are jammy, ripe and expressive, and the tannins are creamy, supple and well integrated.  Well-proportioned and balanced, juicy but not overripe, this vintage continues to deliver the Old Soul Red message of imminent, satisfying drinkability on release without sacrificing the merits of aging potential.   Reminds me of The Prisoner for a lot less $$!

 

RECIPES

For the Chardonnay:  Heirloom Tomato, Mortadella and Cave Aged Emmnethal Tart  Serves 4

The Emmenthal adds a lovely rich piquancy, and sharpness to this summery tomato tart.

1 sheet high quality puff pastry
2 tablespoons wholegrain mustard
12 slices Emmenthal cheese, about ⅛ inch thick
6 slices Mortadella, about ¼ inch thick
3-4 large heirloom tomatoes, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 375F.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Unfold the puff pastry on a cool, lightly floured work surface and roll it out to a ¼ inch thickness. Trim the pastry into a 12” round a lay it on the baking sheet. Use a fork and prick the pastry in several places.

Brush the pastry with the mustard, leaving a ½ inch border around the edge. Lay 6 slices of cheese over the mustard, then top with the mortadella. Lay the remaining slices of cheese over the mortadella. Arrange the tomatoes on top, slightly overlapping to form a circular pattern. Scatter the garlic slices over the top, season with salt and pepper, and drizzle with about half the olive oil.

Bake until the pastry is golden brown, the cheese is bubbling, and teh tomatoes are lightly caramelized.

Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and serve immediately.

For the Pinot Noir:  Pork Porterhouse with Eggplant and Raisin-Pine Nut Relish  Serves 4

Offering the best of both worlds with cuts from the strip loin and tenderloin, these chewy, juicy steaks are great for the grill. Brine the steaks the night before for even more juicy flavor.

2 Pork Porterhouse steaks, about 2 inches thick (available by preorder at most butcher shops)
1 large eggplant, cut into 12 rounds
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled
1/4 cup pine nuts
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup diced yellow onion
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
1/2 cup dark raisins
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1/2 cup roasted peppers, roughly chopped
2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried Sicilian oregano

Preheat a grill to high heat.

Distribute the eggplant on a sheet pan in one layer and generously salt on both sides. Lay another sheet pan on top of the eggplant and place a heavy object on top to add pressure. Set aside for 1 hour. Remove the weight and transfer the eggplant to paper towels and pat dry.

Salt and pepper the pork on both sides and add to the grill. Grill until the first sides are nicely browned. Turn the steaks and cook, about 6 to 8 minutes. Move to a cooler part of the grill and cook a further 3-4 minutes until internal temperature reaches 160 degrees. Transfer the pork to a platter and let rest in a warm place for about 10 minutes.

Add oil to a large hot skillet, making sure to cover the entire bottom of the pan with about 1/8 inch of oil. Add the eggplant just before the oil starts to smoke — it should sizzle as the eggplant is dropped in and the eggplant should brown quickly. Once the eggplant is golden on both sides, about 3 to 5 minutes, remove from the oil and transfer to paper towels. Allow the eggplant to come to room temperature or to cool completely.

Lightly toast the pine nuts in a skillet over medium-high heat. Be careful not to toast them too much as they will take on a bitter flavor. Set aside.

Pour oil into a hot skillet. Add the onion and saute over medium-high heat until golden, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and saute for another minute or so until the garlic is fragrant. Add the raisins and the vinegar. Reduce the heat and continue cooking for 2 to 3 minutes, until the vinegar has reduced by half and the raisins are plump. Add the peppers, ½ cup water and pine nuts. Stir and reduce the heat to low. Cover the skillet with a lid and cook for another 10 minutes, until most of the water has evaporated. Once the relish has dried, add the oregano and stir well. Allow to cool completely before using.

Serve the pork steaks on large dinner plates with the eggplant and relish.

 

For the Red Blend:  Marinated Skirt Steak with Pickled Feta and Cherry Tomatoes  Serves 4

This very simple and quick to pull together recipe is a little unique in that you are actually cooking the steak twice, so it is very important that you get a really good sear on the first cook, which only comes about from a very hot skillet! So, turn on the hood fan, and be careful!

1 piece skirt steak, about 2 to 2 ½ pounds
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 cloves garlic, peeled and grated
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 sprigs fresh rosemary, stemmed and leaves coarsely chopped (about 2 teaspoons)
2 teaspoons fennel seeds, lightly toasted and crushed
4 ounces feta, crumbled
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons dried oregano
½ pint ripe cherry tomatoes, cut in half
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Heat a cast iron or heavy-bottomed skillet and add a few tablespoons of oil. When the oil begins to smoke lightly, season the steak on both sides with salt and add to the skillet. Cook it on the first side for 1 minute and then turn it on the second side for another minute. In a small bowl, stir together the garlic, Worcestershire sauce, rosemary, and fennel seeds. Remove the steak from the skillet; it will still be barely cooked. Use the back of a spoon to spread the garlic mixture on both sides of the steak and allow it to rest for 10 minutes. Refrigerate for a few hours and allow it to marinate.

In a small bowl, combine the feta cheese with the red wine vinegar, oregano, and olive oil. Stir to blend. Set aside.

When ready to serve the steak, wipe out the grease and anything sticking to the bottom of the skillet. Heat the skillet again and add about 2 tablespoons of oil. Sear the steak again and cook to desired temperature. Remove the steak from the skillet and place it on a flat surface. Cut against the natural grain of the meat to tenderize. Gently stir the tomatoes into the feta dressing and spoon on top of the steak. Serve immediately.

 

For the Sicilian Red:  Spicy Lamb and Caramelized Onion Baguette  Serves 4

This spicy, chewy lamb sandwich is great for a warm summers day lunch with a Mediterranean inspired salad on the side.

2 lamb loins
1 teaspoon chopped thyme
½ teaspoon dried oregano
2 medium onions, sliced
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
¼ cup brown sugar
¼ cup white balsamic vinegar
1 baguette, cut into 4 pieces and split
½ cup mayonnaise
4 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 bunch wild arugula leaves

Heat a little olive oil in a non-stick skillet over high heat. Season the lamb with salt, pepper, thyme and the dried oregano.Cook the lamb for 4–5 minutes each side for medium or until cooked to your liking. Remove from the pan and keep warm. Reduce the heat to low and add the onion, chilli, fennel, sugar and vinegar and cook for 20 minutes or until caramelized. Warm the baguettes and spread  with the mayonnaise and mustard. Slice the lamb and fill the baguette with the arugula, lamb and onions to serve.