This month we present four favorite wines that have all been presented in past club offerings, in new vintages.  These are all California  wines, expertly made. I say this every month it seems, but I'd buy all four wines - they're that good!

First off, there's Luli Chardonnay, a collaboration between Friend of Farmstead Sara Floyd, MS and the Pisoni family.   100% Santa Lucia Highlands fruit.  100% great.

This is the third time that we've presented Luli wines - their third vintage.  I've always loved the solid backbone of acidity in the wine (Sara calls it crispy), coupled with ample amounts of bright apple and tropical fruit.  The pundits have finally figured out this is a great wine, and it was snatched up by savvy wine shops in a New York Minute.  Sara held some back for us, and we were able to snatch up the last of the wine available, for the Classic club....

91 points Parker:  "The 2009 Chardonnay exhibits abundant notes of caramelized oranges, nectarines and white peaches in a tropical fruit-scented and flavored style. Terrific fruit intensity, medium body, wonderful purity and no noticeable oak make for a totally captivating Central Coast Chardonnay fruit bomb. Enjoy it over the next 1-3 years."

Then from Mick Unti, another Friend of Farmstead, we present two wines -  Unti Rosé and Unti Syrah.  Both estate Dry Creek grown, 100% biodynamic, and well- balanced wines.  (The grapevines in our shop in Montclair were a gift from Mick!).

Unti Syrah According to Mick:  I believe this is the most Bandol-like Rosé in California, which by definition makes it one of, if not, the best Rosé from here."  (Mick is very modest!) 

"We have been farming these vineyards bio-dynamically since 2005. We crop our Grenache and Mourvèdre at very low yields for both Red and Rose wines. And I think (winemaker) Sebastien Pochan simply puts more effort into making this a traditional Provençal-style Rosé.  You'll note that this year's model is below 14% for the first time ever. This is due to us harvesting Grenache and Mourvèdre at lower sugars than for the Red. Now 90% of this wine is pressed upon crushing. The acidity is brighter, the wine is richer, and it is lower in alcohol."

"This Rosé comes from two different sites on our estate: our “creekside” vineyards planted in 1998, and our newly grafted vines located on our “benchland” property.  The vines are Grenache Noir clones, and Mourvedre purchased from Tablas Creek and Alban Vineyards.  These clones, selected from Châteauneuf du Pâpe, give darker color and better structure than the majority of Grenache planted in California.  Our vines are densely planted (4’ x 6’ spacing) on low-vigor rootstock.

"When we first started making Rosé, it was as a by-product of making a more intense and structured red, using a technique called saignée, or bleeding juice from the tank.  Now we produce 90% of the Rosé by directly pressing Grenache and Mourvèdre grapes.  In order to make a Provençal-style Rosé that is not dark hued or tannic, we limit skin contact to a couple of hours.  The wine is fermented completely dry and kept in a stainless steel tank until bottling.  The malo-lactic fermentation was inhibited to preserve natural acidity. Mourvèdre is a key component to making this a complex Rosé."

Unti Syrah (note by Mick Unti)  "This 2007 Syrah “normale” comes from our estate vineyards located on the winery property. Here, we have the much-heralded Northern Rhone clones 174, 877, 383 and 470 planted on low-vigor rootstock. We have been increasingly impressed with the complexity of flavors coming from these vines since 2002.  All of our vineyards are farmed following the natural lunar cycles emphasizing the relationship between plants and soils.  Additionally, we do not use herbicides or pesticides.  2007 was one of the best vintages for all of our grape varieties. A dry spring season caused small berries. We had moderate weather throughout the growing season with a slight heat spike in mid-September.  Such conditions were ideal for allowing the grapes to mature slowly and develop deep rich flavors and color. We harvested our Syrah between October 6th and 9th.  The moderate growing season really enhanced pepper, olive and floral aromas – many of the characteristics we appreciate in Northern Rhone Syrah.

Since 2005 we have implemented whole cluster fermentation with our winery block Syrah. Our intention in bypassing the de-stemmer/crusher is to enhance aromas and structure from the stems in small open top tanks. After a 5-day cold soak, fermentation begins with indigenous yeast.  Working the wine during fermentation is a challenge when the stems are present. Consequently, one of us has to jump into the tank using the “human punch-down” technique.  Our 2007 Syrah is aged in only French Oak, 30% new, for 16 months.

This medium to full-bodied wine is a personal favorite because it strikes a great balance between Old and New World Syrah. The complex set of spicy and floral aromas are followed by sweet blueberry and blackberry flavors.  While this wine has a lush Dry Creek side to it, the crisp acidity will have you thinking of a St. Joseph that has been lifting weights. It is already drinking nicely and should continue to do so for 3 to 5 years."

Sean Thackrey Red Wine Pleiades (XX)  We've been selling Thackrey's Pleiades,  the first wine I ever remember calling a cult wine, since 2003.  Back then, we got a miniscule allocation, and we hid the wine behind the counter, doling it out bottle by bottle to a few lucky folks. 

I was overjoyed when Sean Thackrey switched distributors,  and our allocations, while still not unfettered, granted us enough to offer the wine to our wine club!

Always a blend of up to ten different cultivars, both red and white, Pleiades is at the very least a very interesting wine, always easy to drink, and nearly  impossible to describe. 

Sean Thackrey lives in Bolinas and calls out medieval, Roman and Renaissance texts as inspiration.  He makes his wine in Bolinas as well, in open top fermenters located in a Eucalyptus grove!   If there's one California winery that's farthest in spirit from the manicured order of the typical Napa estate, it's Sean Thackrey's no-frills property in Bolinas. One hour's drive north of San Francisco in western Marin County, and accessible only via a twisting road that ends at the Pacific's edge, Bolinas exudes the mellow isolation of a hippie commune.That apparently works fine for the eccentric, cerebral Thackrey, who's been making wine in a Bolinas eucalyptus grove for more than 20 years.

Perhaps Parker sums it up best when he says:  "One of California's most iconic and mystical winemakers, Sean Thackrey has logged in 20 or more vintages of consistently stunning wines that perhaps say it all with the simple quote on his label: -'Sean A. Thackrey, Vintner, Bolinas, California.'"

RECIPES:

With the Chard:   Truffled Potato Gnocchi with Spring Peas, Chanterelles and Goat Cheese Serves 4

• 1 lb. russet potatoes (about 2), unpeeled
• 1 1⁄4 cup flour, plus more for dusting
• 3⁄4 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 tbsp. truffle oil
• 1 egg, beaten
• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 10 oz. mushrooms, preferably chanterelles, roughly chopped
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 3⁄4 cup peas, fresh or frozen
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to tast
• 1 tbsp. finely chopped chives
• 4 ounces fresh goat cheese

Boil potatoes in a 4-qt. saucepan of salted water until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes; let cool slightly and peel. Work potatoes through a food mill or a potato ricer onto a lightly floured surface. Sprinkle the flour and salt over the potatoes and mix together with your hands. Form a mound and create a well in the center; add truffle oil and egg. Gently knead dough until it just comes together, adding a little more flour if it begins to stick.

2Lightly flour a parchment paper–lined baking sheet and set aside. Using a rolling pin, roll dough to a 1⁄2" thickness. Cut into 1⁄2"-wide strips. Roll each strip between your hands and the work surface to form ropes. Cut each rope into 1" segments. Working with one segment at a time, roll it down the back of a small fork so that the tines make ridges on the surface of the dough. Transfer gnocchi to the prepared baking sheet; cover with a kitchen towel and refrigerate until ready to cook.

3. Make the sauce: Bring a 6-qt. pot of salted water to a boil. Heat oil in a 12" skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms to skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until light brown, about 5 minutes. Raise heat to high; add cream, peas, and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until cream reduces by half. Season mushroom sauce with salt and pepper and remove skillet from heat. Boil gnocchi in the salted water until they float, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer gnocchi to mushroom sauce, add chives, and toss to combine.


With the Rosé:  Chicken with Olives and Rosemary Serves 4

Chicken legs can be the tastiest and most succulent part of the bird because they consist of the dark meat from the drumstick and the attached thigh. Cooked with olives and rosemary they take on a wonderful briny flavor that compliments bright, crisp and dry rose.

• 12  whole chicken legs, bone-in
• ¼ teaspoon piment d’esplette  (available at specialty groceries)
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium shallot, thinly sliced
• 1 garlic clove, smashed
• 4 ounces  pitted green and black olives
• 4 sprigs of rosemary
• 1 Meyer lemon, cut into ¼ inch slices
• 1 cup of red cherry tomatoes
• Sea salt and cracked black pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 375F.

Season the chicken legs  with sea salt, cracked black pepper and piment d’esplette. Heat olive oil in a Dutch oven and chicken thighs skin side down. Sear for about 3 minutes until golden brown. Turn and cook for a further minute before removing to a platter. Add the shallot and garlic, and cook until softened. Return the chicken to the pot with the olives, rosemary, and lemons.   Season with salt and pepper. Place in the oven for 20 minutes. Add the tomatoes, and continue to cook for about 15 minutes more until the chicken is fully cooked.

With the Pleiades: Grilled Veal T-Bones with Glazed Carrots and Roasted Shallots Serves 4

Veal T-Bones are cut from the loin roast, and is the equivalent of a porterhouse or T-bone steak. Buttery, lean, and tender, they are not cheap but, well worth the extra expense.   Most local butcher shops will carry these, if not, ask them to order them for you.

• 24 whole shallots, skins on, trimmed
• 4 rosemary sprigs, leaves removed and roughly chopped
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 1 medium size onion, chopped
• 1 tablespoon sea salt
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
• 1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds
• 1 star anise, chopped
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 sprigs of fresh thyme
• 6 to 8 medium carrots, peeled and trimmed
• 1/4 cup honey
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 2 limes, zested and juiced
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 4 Veal T-Bones, 16 ounces each
• Sea salt and black pepper

Preheat the oven to 375F.

Toss the shallots with olive oil, sea salt and pepper. Place in a baking dish and scatter the rosemary over top. Roast in the oven for about 40 minutes until soft and tender. Add the vinegar and cook a further 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and keep warm until needed.

In a large pot combine 4 cups of water and the onion, sea salt, sugar, fennel seeds, coriander, star anise, bay leaf and fresh thyme. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Turn off the heat and allow the broth to steep for 1 hour. Strain the liquid and discard the solids.

Arrange the carrots in a baking dish just large enough to hold them. Add enough broth to cover the carrots; cover with foil, and bake until the carrots can easily be pierced with a knife.

Cool the carrots in the baking dish. Remove them from the liquid. Strain the liquid and set aside.

In a medium size saute pan, heat the honey and cumin seeds until the honey is boiling and begins to brown slightly. Remove from the heat and carefully add the lime juice, butter, and 1/2 cup of the reserved liquid. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for 2 minutes until thick and reduced by 1/3. Add the carrots and turn them gently to coat with the glaze. Sprinkle with the lime zest.

Preheat a grill. Season the veal with salt and pepper. Place on the grill and cook 6 to 8 minutes on each side for medium. Cover and allow to rest 5 minutes before serving, with the carrots and shallots on the side.


For the Syrah:  Pistachio-Crusted Rack of Lamb with Pancetta and Scallion Serves 4

From Ferran Adria, arguably the best chef on the planet, this delicious lamb rack recipe is a perfect partner with Unti's Syrah..

• 1 tablespoon chopped thyme
• 1 1/2 teaspoons chopped rosemary
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• One 1 1/2 pound rack of lamb, frenched (8 chops)
• 6 ounces thinly sliced pancetta or bacon
• 8 scallions, white and tender green parts only

Preheat the oven to 400°.

In the bowl of a food processor, finely chop the pistachios with the thyme and rosemary. Add half of the olive oil and process to a paste; season with salt and pepper. Scrape half of the pistachio paste into a small bowl and stir in the remaining olive oil.

Coat the lamb with half of the remaining pistachio paste. Wrap the pancetta slices around the lamb, between the bones, leaving the bones exposed. Spread the remaining pistachio paste over the pancetta and set the rack in a small roasting pan. Roast the rack for about 40 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the meat registers 130° for medium-rare. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Reserve the pan drippings.

Meanwhile, spoon 1 teaspoon of the rendered pancetta fat from the roasting pan into a medium skillet and heat until shimmering. Add the scallions and cook over high heat until softened and browned in spots, about 4 minutes. Carve the lamb rack into four 2-chop servings and transfer them to plates along with the scallions. Drizzle the pistachio pesto all around and serve right away.

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