This month, we present a rich Argentine Torrontés, a crisp and refreshing organic (and allocated!) Vin Gris, a deep and brooding CA Syrah, and a delightful Bordeaux.

Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontés was the first Argentine wine that we brought into the shops back in 2003.  I love how the wine's powerful nose of peaches, pears, white flowers and citrus fools your brain into expecting something sweet, yet the wine has a decidedly dry finish.  On the palate, it has a beautiful structure and acidity along with fruit flavors that keep you coming back for another sip, and plenty of body for a wine that shows such delicate aromas and flavors. 

Parker's Wine Advocate agrees, giving the wine 91 Points and calling it the prototype Torrontés in the market.  Tanzer's International Wine Cellar described this edition of the wine as having  "perfumed aromas of peach nectar and flowers. Juicy, pure and intense, with lovely floral perfume and bright framing acidity. A bit viognier-like like in its floral complexity. Finishes juicy and long, and not a bit heavy. This is the #1 Torrontes imported from Argentina and virtually never misses. (90 points)"

In a country dominated by male winemakers, Susana Balbo stands out not only for her gender, but for her incredible skill and experience. She has been making wine since she earned her enology degree in 1981, and she has probably produced a wider variety of wines than any other winemaker in Argentina. Susana was the first Argentine winemaker to be hired as a consultant to make wine outside of Argentina. She has made wine in Australia, California, Chile, France, Italy, South Africa, and Spain, and she spends a month each year in a different wine region of the world studying with local winemakers and growers.

After 25+ years of winemaking, Susana Balbo has a strong sense of what she wants from her wines. From every harvest, she creates the grandest possible wines under her Susana Balbo label. To achieve this, she makes a rigorous selection of the finest barrels prior to making her final blends, dividing them into the parents (reserve level wines) and offspring or "crios". Wines under her Crios label display ripe fruit flavors, excellent balance and concentration, and are meant to be enjoyed in their vibrant youth.

This is the fifth time that we've offered  Sinskey Vin Gris of Pinot Noir, to the Classic Club, an organically and biodynamically farmed  rosé of pinot noir that has bracing acidity, lovely flavors and a nice, crisp finish. 

This is a highly allocated wine -  there is a one bottle limit per wine club member.

This whole cluster pressed Pinot Noir juice has a lovely pale copper-salmon color, tinged by copper. Ultra-fresh aromas of wild strawberry spiked with lemongrass and jasmine burst from the glass. A sip brings the strawberries to life, joined by pristine flavors of lime, watermelon rind, cucumber and a touch of chervil. There’s a supple richness held in check by a bright, bracing edge of natural citrus-like acidity that allows this wine to accompany a broad spectrum of cuisine from the most elegant and delicate preparations to the most simple and comforting. Hamachi, truffled celery root soup, and fresh baby french radishes with Chèvre work well, but so do chicken wings, fried oysters and even a good old homemade burger.

According to Rob Sinskey: "When we first made the Vin Gris of Pinot Noir almost twenty years ago, we could not give it away. If you recall, White Zinfandel was everywhere. Sweet, oaky, fat and flabby - the most popular wines of the day had one or more of these attributes.

We made the Vin Gris of Pinot Noir to prove that a classically structured, European inspired rosé from the Napa Valley was possible. We also wanted to make one that we wanted to drink. Accountants and bookkeepers tried to advise otherwise saying, “How can you waste your top quality Pinot Noir grapes on a wine that provides a lower return?” My only response was, “I like it!”

That first year was an eye opener. The whole cluster pressed Pinot Noir juice emerged a pale copper-salmon color. Some suggested we adjust the hue by blending some finished red wine back to make it more marketable. We preferred to let the wine be. It had great aromatics, flavor and structure. So what if it didn’t look hearty - it was more important that it be real!

No one would buy it. They said anyone who wanted a pink wine wanted a sweet wine. I even had a famous White Zin producer tell me that I would make a lot more money if I left a little sugar in it. But we kept at it. Each year we would make a few hundred cases of this pure, whole cluster pressed Vin Gris and each year we would find a few more brave souls, besides ourselves, who loved the wine.

Times have changed. The foodie revolution has influenced the way many people think about wine. They now look beyond big, dolled up concoctions, preferring elegant, balanced wines that are pure and true. RSV’s Vin Gris of Pinot Noir now has an enthusiastic, almost cult-like following. Today, it is the fastest selling (and consumed!) wine in our Portfolio."

It's hard to believe that Chateau Haut Colombier Premieres Cotes de Blaye is the first red Bordeaux wine that we've offered in the Classic Club!  We loved this Merlot and  Malbec blend (90% Merlot) from 25 year old vines planted on the higher slopes of the hill of Blaye. An elegant, fruity red with toasty oak notes and a long finish.

The Chety family have been working with vines in the Gironde Estuary since 1803. Danielle and Jean and their three children Emmanuel, Veronique and Olivier are all involved in the business.

I loved the wine's rich character with notes of cranberry jam intermixed with cherries, licorice, spice, and a hint of herbs, the wine is silky-textured, medium-bodied, and very hedonistic.

Copain Tous Ensemble Syrah Tous Ensemble, which means "all together" in French is made from  fruit from Alder Springs, Eaglepoint Ranch, Hawks Butte and McDowell Valley vineyards. All the fruit was fermented with 30-50% whole cluster and barrel aged in 15% new French oak. The wine was lightly egg white fined and bottled unfiltered.  With spicy, floral aromas accenting its briery dark fruit core, this velvety Syrah should be a fine companion to many a meal.  While drinking well now, another year in bottle will help integrate the flavors and provide great drinking over the next 3-5 years or more.  Yummy.

RECIPES

For the Torrontés  Crispy “Cannelloni” of Shrimp, Bacon, and Avocado Serves 6

These delicious creamy and filling canneloni can also be made with crab or lobster-just add the fresh crab and lobster meat to the cooked spinach when you fold in the cheese.

3 sheets phyllo dough cut into half
½ cup egg wash
2 shallots, sliced
12 jumbo shrimp, peeled, deveined, and diced
¼ cup applewood bacon, diced
2 cups baby spinach
¼ cup ricotta cheese
2 tablespoons parmesan cheese, grated
1 avocado, cut into ¼ inch cubes
3 basil leaves, torn into small pieces
Salt and pepper, to taste

In a medium sauté pan, cook the bacon until lightly browned. Add the shrimp, shallots and spinach, and cook for 5 minutes. Season to taste. Remove from heat, drain mixture and allow to cool. Once cool, roughly chop spinach mixture. In a mixing bowl, combine spinach mixture with ricotta and parmesan cheeses. Finally fold in the avocado and basil.

Lay phyllo sheets on flat work surface and brush with egg wash. Place a small spoonful of filling in center of sheet. Roll pastry around filling to form a cigar shape. Place prepared “cannelloni” on a cookie sheet and bake in a 350-degree oven until golden brown, approximately 10-12 minutes. Remove, cool slightly and cut on the bias.


For the Rosé  Grilled Wild Salmon Salad Serves 6

This very flavorful and spicy salad is also light and healthy. A perfect go to recipe after a wee bit of self indulging.

Marinade:
4 salmon filets, about 4 ounces each
½ cup hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
2 tablespoons sesame oil
Zest and juice of 1 orange

Salad Greens:
1 head Boston lettuce, cored and quartered
2 cups pea shoots
1 cup mâché
1 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1 cup watercress, stems removed
½ cup chopped fresh mint
½ cup chopped fresh basil
2 scallions thinly sliced
2 small radishes thinly sliced
½ cucumber, halved and thinly sliced
½ head of fennel, thinly sliced

Dressing:
½ cup rice wine vinegar
¼ cup sesame oil
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons peanut oil
2 teaspoons dry Chinese mustard
1 ½ teaspoons fish sauce

Mix the hoisin, rice wine vinegar, ginger, sesame oil and orange juice together. Transfer half to a baking dish and reserve the other half for later use. Arrange the salmon in a single layer in the baking dish. Cover and chill for about 2 hours, turning the salmon every 30 minutes.

Combine all the salad greens in a large mixing bowl and chill until ready to serve.

Whisk all the dressing ingredients together to combine.

Preheat a grill to high heat. Remove the salmon from the marinade; discard the marinade. Grill the salmon for about 3 minutes each side for medium rare. Remove from the grill and brush the salmon with the remaining marinade.

Toss the salad greens with the dressing and season with salt and pepper. Divide among 6 large salad bowls. Flake the salmon into large pieces and scatter over the greens.



For the Bordeaux:  Chicken Liver Pate with Onion Marmalade Serves 4

This is one of my standby fail-safe starters that often gets wolfed down without much sharing, and usually ends up being supper with crusty bread, cornichons and a bottle of red. It has a velvety texture thanks to the dollop of crème fraîche. The onions really need long slow cooking so they caramelise naturally, but adding a little sugar speeds things along. Make sure the onions are floppy and soft before adding the vinegar. If you don’t, the onions will never soften.

2 onions, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons pickled jalapeno peppers, finely chopped
1/2 cup sugar
¼ cup dark brown sugar
3 cups balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup water
Salt and pepper
1 shallot, finely chopped
3 ounces butter
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme plus 1 sprig
12 ounces chicken livers
2 tablespoons Cognac
3 ounces crème fraîche
1 bay leaf

In a large pan over medium low heat cook the onions and peppers slowly until soft and translucent. If the onions start to stick to the pan, add a little water and continue cooking until softened. Add the sugars and cook until syrupy; then add the vinegar and water and cook over low heat until thick, syrupy and marmalade-like. Remove from the heat and keep at room temperature. This recipe will make more than you need but the marmalade can be kept for weeks in the refrigerator and is great on burgers, steaks, grilled tuna and alongside cheese.

Gently soften the shallot in a third of the butter in a non-stick pan over medium heat. Sort through the livers, discarding any sinew and fatty bits. Coarsely chop, then season with salt, pepper and the chopped thyme. Add to the pan with the shallot, increase the heat and quickly brown all over. Add the garlic. Toss again, then add the Cognac. Cook for a few more minutes, stirring constantly. Tip into the bowl of a food processor. Add the creme fraiche and blitz briefly until smooth. Pour into a suitable bowl. Smooth and top with the bay leaf and sprig thyme. Melt the rest of the butter and pour over the top to thinly cover. Cool then chill for at least a day before serving.


For the Syrah  Marinated Lamb with Two Sauces Serves 4

The strong flavors of the lamb in this recipe from Chef Daniel Boloud demand a Syrah with dark fruit, spice, and a velvety texture.

1 tablespoon coriander seeds, finely crushed
1 tablespoon fennel seeds, finely crushed
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 small dried chile, seeded and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, sliced
2 sprigs mint, leaves chopped
2 sprigs thyme, leaves chopped
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
12 lamb rib chops (about 3 ounces each and cut 1 inch thick), trimmed and bone cut to 2 inches
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Gingered Tomato Sauce:
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped peeled ginger
1 shallot, finely chopped
6 beefsteak tomatoes, cored and roughly chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Spiced Yogurt Sauce:
1 cup Greek or plain yogurt
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 sprigs mint, leaves very thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, finely chopped and mashed into purée
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Crispy Salad:
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
4 hearts of romaine, trimmed and leaves separated
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed and thinly sliced
10 radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced
1/2 English cucumber, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper

For lamb:

Put the coriander, fennel, cumin, and chile into a small skillet and toast over high heat until very fragrant. Set aside 1/8 teaspoon of the spice mixture for the yogurt sauce.

Stir together the remaining spice mixture, garlic, mint, thyme, and olive oil in a large baking dish. Add the lamb; toss to coat with the marinade, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

For tomato sauce:

Heat the olive oil in a large deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add the ginger and shallot and cook until softened but not colored. Reduce the heat to low; add the tomatoes, and cook until very soft, about 45 minutes, crushing the tomatoes with the back of a fork as they cook. Season with salt and pepper; keep warm.

For yogurt sauce:

Stir together the yogurt, lemon juice, mint, garlic, and the reserved 1/8 teaspoon spice mixture until blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If the mixture is too thick, add a little water. Transfer to a serving bowl; set aside.

For salad:

Whisk together the olive oil and lemon juice in a small bowl. Combine the romaine, fennel, radishes, and cucumber in a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate.

Remove the lamb from the marinade. Pat dry and bring to room temperature.

Meanwhile, prepare a very hot grill. Brush the grill with vegetable oil. Season the chops with salt and pepper and grill for 3 to 5 minutes on each side for medium rare.

Re-whisk the lemon dressing. Drizzle over the vegetables, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Place three lamb chops and some salad on each dinner plate. Serve the sauces separately.

• < Prev
• Next >