This month we have four killer wines for you to sample.  If it were up to me, I'd say get all four!

I don't know what it is about the wines of Jean Vullien of the Savoie region in France;  they are all amazingly made, organically farmed and tasty wines. Jean Vullien Chardonnay is no exception:  crisp and clean, with a nice apple-citrus finish, made from 35 year old vines.   

While this alpine area of eastern France may be better known for skiing than viticulture, a cadre of Savoyard vignerons are producing excellent wines here. The region's best come from a boomerang-shaped string of six hillside crus between Grenoble and Albertville called the Combe de Savoie. Jean Vullien and his two sons, David and Olivier, tend 69 acres on the Combe with prime parcels in four of the six crus.

The domaine's holdings include all of the region's indigenous grape varieties, as well as strategically-placed parcels of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  This year, France's Revue du Vin selected Domaine Jean Vullien as their Coup de Coeur (Favorite) domaine in Savoie.

While the Vulliens have been making wine for 36 years, the family is perhaps best known as a leader in another segment of the wine industry. Since 1890, Vullien Pépinière Viticole (vine nursery) has been supplying young vines to growers throughout France. In fact, they are responsible for 25% of the Chardonnay planted in Chablis today.

Once American Pinot Noir is a blend of Pinot noir from Oregon and California vineyards, from the 2007 vintage. However, because two different states were used to make this wine, they were not allowed to put the vintage on the label. These wines were created to be used as a glass pour, it is part of the ONCE range of private label wines made for and by the world's top Sommeliers.

Fruity and ready to drink, Once American Pinot Noir is fresh and juicy. This Pinot Noir comes from a combination of Willamette Valley vineyards (60%) and a suite of vineyards on Taylor Lane (40%). The Oregon wine is made by a famous Burgundian winemaker. Pedigreed vineyards, amazing winemakers and a perfect balance of wines from two terroirs.

Serve this controversial Oregon/California Pinot noir blend to your foodie friends and watch chins wag and sparks fly over the wine's style.  ONCE wines are made by and for Sommeliers, who are involved in every step of the process. The ONCE label is reserved for wines made in conjunction with some of the world's most respected Sommeliers. Eric Lilavois, COO of the Thomas Keller empire (French Laundry, Per Se, etc), is involved, as is Danny Meyer, known for Union Square Cafe. Mark Williamson of Willi’s Wine Bar and Maceo in Paris is an investor and Willi's was the first location to offer ONCE wines.

We've stocked Justin Cabernet Sauvignon since we opened in Alameda seven years ago.  This family owned Paso Robles winery makes consistently good wines and their Cabernet Sauvignon is no exception. Ruby-red core to a cherry-red rim, this young Cabernet displays generous fruit in the nose. Some sweet black and red fruits, like blackberry, raspberry and fig, mingle with caramel and vanilla from the American oak. The entry is soft, mouth coating and filled with delicious red berry and sweet black plum. The wine itself is dry and palate filling, with a soft but well-structured, velvet finish. Tannins are modest but present in this youthful but approachable Cabernet Sauvignon.  Justin shows us, yet again, that you don't need a glamorous Napa Valley address to make a concentrated, fruit-filled Cabernet. The 2007 vintage is indicative of this great vintage - spicy cherry, black plum, saddle leather and garrigue aromas create a tantalizing bouquet. In the mouth, the wine layers sultry black fruit, caramel and sweet American oak flavors that linger on the finish. Soft tannins keep this readily approachable.

Atrea Old Soul Red Finally, another old favorite (fourth time we've offered this wine) made by Alex McGregor and David Ramey from organically farmed Zinfandel, Syrah, Petit Syrah and Malbec grapes.  Dark ruby in color, this wine's nose reveals ripe strawberry and red raspberry fruit, mocha, a hint of white pepper and a side note of classic Malbec baking spices.  The flavors are jammy, ripe and expressive, and the tannins are creamy, supple and well integrated.  Well-proportioned and balanced, juicy but not overripe, this vintage continues to deliver the Old Soul Red message of imminent, satisfying drinkability on release without sacrificing the merits of aging potential.   Reminds me of Orin Swift's The Prisoner for a lot less $$!

RECIPES

For the White: Petrale Sole with Capers, Garlic, Olives and Zucchini Serves 4

The sweetness of the fish counter balances the gutsy, zesty flavors of the olives and capers, so a wine with a little weight, some richness and refreshing acidity is needed here.

• 4 Petrale Sole fillets
• 2 garlic cloves thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup capers rinsed
• 1/4 cup green olives pitted
• 2 small zucchini peeled and halved lenghtwise
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 tablespoon flat leaf parsley finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

Season the fish fillets with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Deseed the zucchini and slice into 1/2 inch thick semi circles. Heat olive oil in a large non stick saute pan over medium heat, add garlic and sauté for 2-3 minutes until softened. Add the zucchini and cook until tender. Remove garlic and zucchini from the pan and reserve. Wipe the pan clean with a paper towel, return to medium high heat and add a little olive oil. Add fish fillets (in batches, if necessary), and cook for 3-4 minutes until golden brown. Turn fish and cook other side for 3-4 minutes or until just cooked. Remove fillets from pan and transfer to warmed plates. Return garlic and zucchini  to pan, turn heat up to high, add capers, olives, white wine and lemon juice.Stir well and cook for 1-2 minutes until sauce thickens. Pour over fish, sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately with lemon wedges on the side.

For the Pinot:  Grilled Wild Salmon with Figs, Saba and Arugula Serves 4

Wild Salmon is coming into season and this is a great recipe that packs a lot of flavor from just a few ingredients. Saba is concentrated grape must and is available at most gourmet food stores. If you cannot find it, substitute a quality aged balsamic vinegar.

• 2 tablespoons saba
• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
• Sea salt and pepper
• 2 cups wild arugula, washed and dried
• 1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced
• 4 salmon fillets, skin on (about 6 ounces each)
• 12 ripe figs halved

In a small bowl, whisk the saba and olive oil together, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Put the arugula and fennel in a mixing bowl, add just enough of the saba dressing to coat the greens. Toss gently, season and divide among four dinner plates.
Heat a grill pan over medium high heat. Rub the salmon fillets with a little olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place skin side down on the hot pan and cook until the skin is crisp but not burned. Turn the fillets and cook about 2 minutes more. Transfer the fish to the dinner plates, and place on the salad skin-side down.
Add the figs to the pan, and move them around gently until they begin to wilt Remove from the heat and divide the figs among the dinner plates. Drizzle the remaining saba dressing over the
fish and figs and serve immediately.

For the Cabernet:  Grilled Balsamic-Marinated Tri-Tip Roast with Red Onions Serves 4

This simple but full flavored roast is a perfect Sunday afternoon-in-the-park or backyard  barbecue with family and friends. Easy and cheap to prepare, it is perfectly complimented by potato salad, coleslaw and nice green salad. Oh, and of course bottles of this months club reds!


4 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
3 sprigs rosemary
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tri-tip roast, about 2 pounds
1/2 lemon
3 small red onions

Stir together garlic, 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar, rosemary and 1 1/2 tablespoons oil and pour into a deep baking dish. Add steak to marinade, turning to coat, and marinate, chilled, turning occasionally, at least 4 hours.

Trim root ends of onions slightly, leaving them intact, then halve lengthwise and cut halves lengthwise into 3/4-inch-thick wedges. Insert 1 wooden pick horizontally through each wedge (to keep it intact while grilling). Whisk together remaining tablespoon vinegar and oil and season with salt and pepper to taste in a bowl and add onions, tossing gently to coat.

Bring steak to room temperature, then remove from marinade. Strain marinade into a small saucepan and cook over medium-low heat until slightly thick. Remove from heat and set beside grill for basting steak. Season tri-tip with sea salt and pepper.

Heat grill to high heat.

Sear steak on lightly oiled grill over thickest layer of coals, uncovered, 1 minute on each side, then move steak to area over fewer coals and grill, uncovered, turning occasionally and basting every few minutes until a  thermometer inserted horizontally 2 inches into meat registers 120°F, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let stand 10 minutes (steak will continue to cook, reaching medium-rare).
While steak is standing, grill onions (covered only if using a gas grill) over moderate heat, turning over once, until tender, about 6 minutes.

Serve onions with steak; slice steak against the grain into into thin slices.

For the red blend: Soy Sauce-Marinated Ribs Serves 4

These sweet, sticky and fingerlicking ribs need a rich, full-bodied complex wine to stand up to them.

• 1 1/4 cups light brown sugar
• 1 cup soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1/4 teaspoon red chili flake
• 4 garlic cloves finely chopped
• 1 two inch piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped
• 3 pounds pork baby back ribs
• 3 scallions thinly sliced

Whisk together the sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, chili flake, garlic, ginger and 1/4 cup of water in a large bowl. Add the ribs and toss to coat. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow to marinate overnight, turning occasionally to coat.
Heat the oven to 450F.
Remove the ribs from the marinade and arrange, curves side up, on a rack over a foil lined baking sheet. Roast for 20 minutes.
While the ribs are cooking, heat the marinade in a heavy bottom sauce pot over medium low heat until it gets thick and syrupy.
Lower the heat to 350F. Turn the ribs, and baste with the marinade and return to the oven for 20 minutes. Continue cooking and basting every 10 minutes until the ribs are glazed and tender.
remove from the oven and transfer to a platter. Garnish with the scallions and serve with your favorite sides.

• < Prev
• Next >