This month, we've got a great selection of wines for you: a sparkling wine from the Loire Valley, a Chenin Blanc from the same region, a single vineyard Paso Robles Zinfandel and a southern French red blend that will knock your socks off. 
Baumard Cremant de Loire Carte Tourquoise is a fabulous sparkling wine with a creamy finish. A perennial staff and shop favorite, this non-vintage brut was given 90 points by the Wine Enthusiast. "A rich, complex blend of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc made by one of the top producers in Anjou. The ripe fruits have kept their freshness, leaving a generous but crisp wine, with a delicate, elegant mousse."
All Baumard wines are terrific, and the Carte Turquoise is clean and dry with lots of pear and apple flavors. It has a soft enough demeanor to be an apéritif, but enough style to handle lightly sauced chicken. Crémant de Loire connotes a sparkle essentially halfway between a fully sparkling wine like a Champagne (the equivalent Italian term is spumante) and a lightly sparkling wine.
Pinon Vouvray Tradition 100% Chenin Blanc - Very juicy apple and mineral aromas, more apple, but it is a precise and fine aroma, not just apple-y. Medium weight, barely off-dry. Great acidity and natural balance. The weight is mouth-filling but the wine is fresh and vibrant. Very long finish, not at all cloying thanks to the acidity. Pinon is not on the great limestone terroir on the first hill facing the Loire. He is further away from the river, in the Vallée des Cousses, where the grapes end and wheat begins. Vouvray from here is generally just okay; but he has farmed well and organically for decades, and his wines always have perfect natural balance and beautiful fruit. This is drinking very well now.
Ancient Peaks Paso Robles Margarita Vineyard Zinfandel Margarita Vineyard stands alone as the only vineyard in its vicinity, nestled into the rugged Santa Lucia Mountain range just 14 miles from the Pacific Ocean. All vines are farmed organically. The 2006 was rated 93 points from the Wine Spectator, and we like this year's vintage (2007) just as much. This 2007 Zinfandel opens with bright aromas of cherry, plum, and vanilla spice. Juicy flavors of raspberry, brambleberry, and black cherry unfold along a broad, seamless texture. Accents of black pepper add to a lively finish.
Les Obriers de la Pèira (One Bottle Limit) We bought as much as we could of this wine, and there's not enough for all of you. (Last year we got in just two cases and most of it was purchased by staff - well, ahem, actually by me).
2/3 Cinsault and 1/3 Carignan , 91- 92 points Robert Parker: "In my fantasy world where the authorities require every Languedoc vigneron to protect some old Cinsault and Carignan vines, they should all be required as well to taste La Peira’s 2007 Les Obriers de la Peira, or any other vintage of this remarkable blend of two parts Cinsault and one of Carignan. Production has already "ramped up" to over one thousand cases, or a bit more than the combined production of the estate’s other three cuvées. That said, the yields permitted these old vines (to say nothing of those that inform the other bottlings at this estate) would stop most growers dead in their tracks. This could be called almonds (Cinsault) meet walnuts (Carignan) and the nutty, toasty, richness is enhanced by fermentation and aging in young oaken uprights (whence I tasted it, with a small component from barriques having been added). To be sure, dark cherry and blackberry abound here too, along with hints of mint. Silky smooth and seductively palate-coating, enormously ripe to the point of resembling a liqueur, yet with its alcohol hidden and with a bright, vivacious core of fresh fruit, this will be irresistible on release, but who knows how many years it might go on delivering pleasure?
La Peira en Damaisela is the property of London-based composer Robert Dugan, located between Jonquieres and Aniane, on two adjacent parcels of no known previous distinction, but to which in 2004 instinct led him either with remarkable prescience or remarkable luck. The deep alluvial fan that is the basis for this site is only barely tilted, as it might be in St. Helena or Rutherford, St.-Estephe or Pomerol ... and these comparisons will not seem inapt once you experience the quality of La Peira’s wines. Claude Gros (of Chateau de Negly fame) consults here, expense seems not to have been spared on a new facility (with, of course, lots of new barrels), and Bordeaux-trained Jeremie Depierre is the hands-on (or, as I am sure he and Dugan would prefer me to put it “hands-off”) winemaker. New barrels of 500-600 liter capacity are favored here, incidentally, rather than classic (225 liter) barriques. I had the good fortune to taste the La Peira cuvees of 2005 and 2006 in late 2007 – before any wines had been released – and again this past December, when I tasted the extraordinary 2007s here for the first time. As this report goes to press, the first of the three red bottlings is about to be released in its 2007 rendition, but neither of the two other red cuvees from the 2006 vintage although all three were bottled at around 20-22 months has even been released yet."
The domaine began in 2004 - in a small stone barn halfway between Grange des Pères and Daumas Gassac. It is situated at the foot of the Larzac plateau, known for grazing sheep and Roquefort production. This is an area of warm summers and cold winters, and of poor stony soils scented with fennel, rosemary and thyme.
La Pèira is inspired by one belief: that with rigorous and uncompromising work in the vineyard and non-interventionist winemaking, the true character of this terroir may convey something of its beauty and wildness, something unique and expressive. This involves a meticulous approach to viticulture - very low yields, short pruning, de-suckering, crop thinning, shoot removal, leaf plucking, and green harvesting; the hand picking of perfectly ripe grapes in small cagettes; a double triage and sorting table and the careful élevage of small amounts of wine in new barrels.
Recipes
For the Cremant: Moules Au Gratin Serves 4
These garlicky mussels would work well as a great starter or canape on Christmas Eve, or New Years Eve. Hand them around with glasses of the Cremant, and provide a big bowl for the shells.
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 shallots, finely chopped
- 25-30 good-sized mussels in their shells, scrubbed and with beards removed
- 3 tablespoons white wine
- To serve, a few handfuls of rock salt (optional)
For the topping:
- 2 slices day-old white bread
- 2 tablespoons roughly chopped parsley and basil
- 1 garlic clove, chopped
- 2 oz finely grated Parmesan cheese
- 3-4 tablespoons olive oil
For the topping, cut the crusts off the bread and rip the rest into chunks (you should have about 2oz of crustless bread). Put in a food processor and process to crumbs. Add the herbs and garlic, and process again. Tip into a bowl and mix in the Parmesan and enough olive oil to moisten the mixture, but leaving it still dry enough to sprinkle. Set this aside.
Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan and sweat the shallots over a medium heat for 4-5 minutes until soft without browning. Tip in the mussels and wine and cover with a lid. Turn the heat up to high and steam the mussels for 3-4 minutes, shaking the pan gently once or twice until the shells open.
Drain the mussels, reserving the juices in a bowl. Pick out and discard any mussels that have not opened.
Remove the top shell from each mussel, leaving the meat in the lower shell. Transfer to a baking sheet and sprinkle with the topping. Cook the mussels under the broiler until the topping turns golden and crisp.
Serve on a large plate covered with a layer of rock salt and drizzle some olive oil over top.
For the Vouvray: Apple Stuffed Pork Tenderloins with Cabbage, Pine Nut and Pecorino Salad Serves six
The juicy apple, mineral and citrus flavors of the Pinon Vouvray work fantastically with this pork dish. The wine has enough texture and weight to stand up to the pork, and the refreshing acidity balances the tanginess of the cabbage salad.
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- 1/4 cup minced shallots
- 1/4 pound pork sausage, casings removed
- 1 Granny Smith apple—peeled, cored and cut into 1/3-inch dice
- 1 garlic clove, minced
- 1/2 teaspoon chopped thyme
- 1/2 cup finely chopped collard greens (2 large leaves, stemmed)
- 1/4 cup dried cranberries
- 1/4 cup fresh brioche breadcrumbs
- salt and freshly ground pepper
- Three 1-pound pork tenderloins
- 12 slices of bacon, sliced very thin
- 1/4 cup golden raisins (see note)
- 1/2 cup marsala
- 1/2 savoy cabbage, thinly sliced
- 1-2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
- 2/3 cup pine nuts, toasted
- 4 ounces brioche breadcrumbs, toasted
- 2 ounces Pecorino Romano, finely grated
- 4 cups (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley leaves
- 4 egg yolks
- 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
- 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
- 3/4 cupl olive oil
- 1/4 cup sour cream
In a large skillet, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the shallots and cook over moderate heat until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the sausage and cook, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, until cooked through, about 3 minutes. Add the apple, garlic, and thyme and cook until the apple just begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Stir in the collard greens and cook until wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and add the dried cranberries and breadcrumbs. Mix well, and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
Light a grill. Using a long, thin knife and beginning at a thick end, cut a 1-inch-wide pocket through the center of each pork tenderloin; use the handle of a wooden spoon to widen the pocket if necessary. Fill the pork tenderloins with the stuffing, poking it in with the wooden spoon. Season the tenderloins with salt and pepper and wrap the bacon strips securely around them; try to cover any exposed stuffing with the bacon.
Grill the pork tenderloins over moderately high heat, turning four times, until browned on every side, about 25 minutes, or the internal temperature reaches 140°. Transfer the pork tenderloins to a cutting board, cover tightly with foil and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.
Place the raisins in a bowl and cover with the marsala.
Combine the egg yolks, vinegar and mustard in a food processor and blend until smooth, gradually add the oil in a thin stream until emulsified. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the sour cream, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Combine the cabbage and white balsamic vinegar in a bowl, toss to coat and allow to stand for 10-15 minutes.
Drain the raisins, discarding the marsala, and add to the cabbage with the pine nuts and half the toasted breadcrumbs, pecorino and parsley. Add the creamy dressing, toss gently to combine and season to taste.
Slice each pork loin into 3 equal pieces, and serve on large dinner plates with the cabbage on the side.
For the Zinfandel: Skirt Steak with Goat Cheese Crema and Salsa Verde Serves Four
This is a great recipe that will go great with the spicy, ripe and full flavored Ancient Peaks Zinfandel. How about serving both on game day, instead of the usual beers, nachos and dips!
Salad
- 1 poblano pepper, roasted, peeled and cut into strips
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 1 chayote , peeled, seeded and cut into 1/4 inch strips
- 1/2 red onion thinly sliced
- 1/2 teaspoon oregano
- 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
- 1 avocado, thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped
- salt and ground pepper
- Crema:
- 3/4 cup fresh goat cheese
- 1/4 cup sour cream
- salt and ground pepper
- Salsa Verde:
- 1/2 pound tomatillos, husks and stems removed, rinsed well
- 1 small onion sliced
- 4 cloves of garlic, peeled
- 1 serrano chile pepper, finely chopped
- 1 1/2 cups chicken stock or low sodium broth
- 1 cup cilantro leaves
- salt and ground pepper
- 1 ten-ounce skirt steak
- salt and ground pepper
8 flour or corn tortillas
For the salad:
In 1 tablespoon of olive oil, cook the chayote with the oregano for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the onions and cook until tender, about 8-10 minutes. Whisk together the lime juice and remaining olive oil, season with salt and pepper. In a mixing bowl, gently toss the chayote and onion mixture with the avocado, roasted poblano, cilantro and lime vinaigrette. Keep cool until needed.
For the Crema:
Mix the goat cheese and sour cream together until smooth. Add a little water to thin, and season with salt and pepper. Keep cool until needed.
For the Salsa Verde:
In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the tomatillos, onion, garlic, pepper and stock. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer until the tomatillos and onions are tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, and drain the liquid from the pan. Transfer the solids to a blender; add the cilantro and puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and keep cool until needed.
For the Steak:
Season the steaks with the salt and pepper. In a skillet over high heat, sear the steak on both sides for about 2 minutes until medium-rare. Transfer to a warm platter and allow to rest 3 minutes.
While the steak is resting, mist the tortillas with water and cook on a very hot griddle or in a saute pan over medium-high heat until lightly charred, about 1 minute per side. Place the tortillas between damp towels. Thinly slice the steak against the grain.
Divide and arrange the steak between four plates with the salad, and serve with the salsa verde and goat cheese cream on the side.
For the Obriers: Beef Short Ribs with Saba and Celery Root-Turnip Puree Serves Four
This warm, rich and hearty dish also offers up sweet dark fruit flavors from the saba and balsamic vinegars, and a nuttiness from the celery root-turnip puree. All of which contribute to a fantastic pairing with the Les Obriers de la Piera.
- 4 beef short ribs
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 3 slices of prosciutto, coarsely chopped
- 6 onions, finely chopped
- 1 carrot, finely chopped
- 1 stalk of celery, finely chopped
- 5 sage leaves
- 1 sprig of rosemary
- 4 pieces of dried porcini, soaked in water for 15 minutes
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 1 cup red wine
- 1/2 cup saba ***
- 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
- 4 cups beef stock
- 1 pound celery root, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 1 pound yellow turnips, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 1 cup heavy cream
- salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 300F.
Season beef ribs with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat olive oil in a wide heavy-based casserole over high heat, brown ribs (on all sides except bone side) in two batches for 2-3 minutes each. Transfer to a tray.
Pour off half the oil and discard, then return casserole to heat and add prosciutto, sauté for 1 minute, add onion, carrot, celery, herbs and drained porcini, and cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables caramelize (8-10 minutes). Stir in tomato paste, reduce heat to medium and cook until dark red in colour (4-5 minutes). Add red wine, saba and vinegar and cook until reduced by half (10-15 minutes). Add beef stock and bring to a simmer over medium heat, then return beef ribs to casserole and bake, covered, until ribs are tender (2 hours).
Transfer ribs to a warm serving platter and pass vegetables and juices through a coarse sieve into a saucepan. Skim fat from surface, then cook over medium heat until thick (3-5 minutes). Season with 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper. Pour over beef ribs and serve immediately.
In a large saucepan, add the celery root and turnips and just enough cold water to cover; bring to a boil. Stir in 3 tablespoons of the unsalted butter and 2 teaspoons of salt. Reduce the heat to moderate and simmer until the celery root and turnips are tender and the cooking liquid is reduced to 1/4 cup, about 35 minutes.
Transfer the vegetables and their cooking liquid to a food processor and let cool for 10 minutes. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter and the cream and process until smooth. Season the celery root–turnip puree with salt and pepper, transfer to a bowl and serve with the short ribs.
***Saba is the sweet reduction of grape must and is available from specialty food stores such as The Spanish Table and Williams Sonoma and select delicatessens.
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