Farmstead Cheeses and Wines

This month, we feature Maldonado Chardonnay, Sinskey Vin Gris, Unti Barbera, and Atrea Old Soul.

Maldonado Parr Vineyard Chardonnay Lately (and sadly) we've been taking advantage of the economic downturn by purchasing wines that heretofore had sold for much much more, and passing those savings onto you.  The Maldonado Parr Vineyard Chardonnay is no exception - it's available on the web for $40/btl. 

With all the talk about unoaked chardonnays, "Burgundian"-style chardonnays, "food friendly" chardonnays, etc.., we sometimes forget the pleasures of a rich, ripe, unpologetically BIG California-styled Chardonny, with plenty of creamy extract and a good dose of toasty oak to boot. Maldonando winemaker Abe Schoener (the mind behind ultra wine geek wine The Scholium Project) takes a no-holds-barred approach to all of the wines he makes, but not at the expense of balance. So although this rich Chardonnay has all of the unctuous, creamy, vanilla-accented fruit a big-chard lover wants, it also good balancing acidity to keep the wine form going over-the-top. If you like your chards big and rich, don't miss this one!   From Wine Spectator: "Offers a mix of ripe pear, peach and spicy floral scents, with a delicate texture that fans out on the finish, ending with a touch of vanilla and mineral."


This is the third time that we've offered  Sinskey Vin Gris of Pinot Noir, to the Classic Club, an organically farmed rosé of pinot noir that has bracing acidity, lovely flavors and a nice, crisp finish.  

This is a highly allocated wine - the winery is sold out, and there is a one bottle limit per wine club member.  This whole cluster pressed Pinot Noir juice has a lovely pale copper-salmon color, tinged by copper. Ultra-fresh aromas of wild strawberry spiked with lemongrass and jasmine burst from the glass. A sip brings the strawberries to life, joined by pristine flavors of lime, watermelon rind, cucumber and a touch of chervil. There’s a supple richness held in check by a bright, bracing edge of natural citrus-like acidity that allows this wine to accompany a broad spectrum of cuisine from the most elegant and delicate preparations to the most simple and comforting. Hamachi, truffled celery root soup, and fresh baby french radishes with Chèvre work well, but so do chicken wings, fried oysters and even a good old homemade burger.

This is also the third time that we've offered Unti Vineyard's Barbera to the Classic Club.  Biodynamic and organically farmed, the 2007 Barbera possesses deep color, exotic fruit aromas, a juicy mouth-feel, and solid acidity.  The wine’s vibrant acidity will remind you of drinking exciting modern-style Barberas from Piemonte, which we love.  The moderate tannin and vibrant acidity make it extremely versatile with food, especially anything on the grill.

Unti is located in Dry Creek Valley, and this 100% Barbera comes from their 2-acre vineyard located on their winery ranch. This is a modern-style Barbera, meaning it is more fruit forward and does spend some time in oak, but it is well-balanced and still retains characteristic Barbera flavor.

Finally, another old favorite (third time we've offered this wine, too!) Atrea Old Soul, made by David Ramey from organically farmed Zinfandel, Syrah, Petit Syrah and Malbec grapes.  Last year's vintage garnered 91 points from Parker, who raved:  "The 2005 Atrea Old Soul is sensational. This is a bistro wine on steroids. Deep ruby/plum-colored with sweet kirsch notes intermixed with licorice, pepper, and background toast, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fleshy, and displays vibrant, juicy, even succulent fruit, a nicely layered texture, and a crisp finish with light tannins."  Reminds me of Orin Swift's The Prisoner for a lot less $$!

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Recipes provided by Michael Lemaire

Chardonnay:  Tarragon Lobster Salad Rolls  serves 4
The lobster salad can also be served over greens,but piled onto a hot dog bun it becomes a perfect lobster roll. My mouth waters thinking about this lobster roll paired with this month's Maldonado Chardonnay. Together this would made an elegant luncheon on the patio.

• 4 (1 1/2-lb) live lobsters
• 1/4 cup finely chopped shallot
• (1 large) 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1/3 cup mayonnaise
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon
• 4 hot dog buns (preferably top-split), buttered and grilled or toasted

Thinking about the scene in Annie Hall, plunge two live lobsters headfirst into an 8-quart pot of boiling salted water. Loosely cover pot and cook lobsters over moderately high heat 9 minutes from time they enter water, then transfer with tongs to sink to cool.

Return water to a boil and cook remaining 2 lobsters in same manner.

While lobsters are cooking, combine shallot, lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a large bowl and let stand at room temperature 30 minutes.

When lobsters are cool, remove meat from claws, joints, and tails. Discard tomalley, any roe, and shells (or save for another use). Cut meat into 1/2-inch pieces.

Whisk mayonnaise, tarragon, and 1/4teaspoon black pepper into shallot mixture. Add lobster meat and toss gently to coat. Pile generous amount of lobster salad onto hot just toasted hot dog buns.


Rosé:  Fava Bean Salad  Serves 4
There is no getting around the fact that fava beans take a lot of time to prepare. I think of them as food made for the people you really love. This is a vegetarian preparation, but it would also be great with a little Serrano,  Prosciutto or other air cured Ham cut into ribbons and folded in. This would make nice starter with a glass of this month's rose.

• 2 pounds fresh fava beans, shelled
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• Pinch of crushed red pepper
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 tender escarole leaves, chopped
• 8 small mint leaves
• 1/4 cup grated Sini Fulvi Pecorino Romano

Directions
In a medium saucepan of boiling water, blanch the fava beans until barely tender, about 2 minutes. Drain and let cool slightly, then peel the beans.
In a medium bowl, combine the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and crushed red pepper and season with salt and black pepper. Add the favas, escarole and mint and toss. Sprinkle with the Pecorino Romano, toss again and serve.

Barbera:  Coniglio al Vino Rosso  (Rabbit Braised in Red Wine)  Serves 4

We love braises - even in warm weather!  Break out Mick Unti's Barbara, a perennial favorite here at Farmstead - and enjoy!

• 1  750-ml bottle of red wine
• 1⁄4 cup red wine vinegar
• 2 1⁄4 tbsp. sugar
• 1  2–3-lb. rabbit, cut into 8 pieces
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1⁄4 cup flour
• 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 16 garlic cloves, crushed
• 16 sage leaves
• 6 rosemary sprigs

1. Heat oven to 350°. In a bowl, whisk together wine, vinegar, and sugar; set red wine mixture aside.

2.Season rabbit with salt and pepper to taste. Put flour on a plate. Dredge rabbit in flour; shake off excess.

3. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook rabbit, turning once, until browned on all sides, about 6 minutes per side.

4. Transfer rabbit to a deep 9" x 13" baking dish. Add garlic to the skillet; cook, stirring constantly, until golden brown, 3–4 minutes. Pour wine mixture into skillet; boil and scrape up browned bits with a spoon; pour sauce over rabbit.

5. Scatter sage and rosemary over top. Cover with foil and transfer to oven; braise until tender, about 45 minutes. Uncover, raise heat to 450°, and continue cooking, basting rabbit until sauce is thickened, about 25 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve atop wide egg noodles.



For the Zin Blend:  Pork Barbecue Sandwiches with Cole Slaw  Yield:12 Sandwiches

This recipe is meant for those who have always aspired to making barbeque but have never quite gotten up the nerve to actually do it. Granted this is an all afternoon project, but this step-by-step recipe lays out the basics.

Once you have done this recipe once, you can, with confidence, tweak and improve the process to your liking.The instructions given here are for a standard 22-inch Weber kettle barbecue. Grilling times and vent adjustments will vary with different types of barbecues. I like barbeque and Zinfandel and this month's Zin based wine, the Atrea Old Soul will stand up to smoky richeness of these sandwiches.


Barbecue Sauce:

• 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
• 6 tablespoons minced onion
• 1 1/3 cups cider vinegar
• 1 1/3 cups ketchup
• 1 cup (packed) dark brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Dry Seasoning Rub:

• 3 tablespoons coarsely ground pepper
• 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
• 3 tablespoons paprika
• 2 tablespoons salt
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Barbecue Mop:

• 1 cup cider vinegar
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tablespoon coarsely ground pepper
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 2 teaspoons vegetable oil
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Cole Slaw

• 1 cup mayonnaise
• 6 tablespoons cider vinegar
• 6 tablespoons Barbecue Sauce
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 12 cups lightly packed shredded green cabbage (about 2 small heads)

 
Mix first 4 ingredients in large bowl. Mix in cabbage. Season with salt and pepper. Chill at least 1 hour.

Pork:
2 untrimmed boneless halves of pork shoulder (also known as Boston butt; about 6 pounds total weight)

4 cups hickory wood (smoke) chips
1 20-pound sack charcoal briquettes

12 soft hamburger buns with sesame seeds, warm
 
Preparation

For Barbecue Sauce:
Melt butter in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and sauté 3 minutes. Add remaining ingredients and bring to boil, stirring frequently. Reduce heat and simmer until sauce is reduced to 2 2/3 cups, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Sauce can be prepared 1 week ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

For Dry Seasoning Rub:
Mix all ingredients in small bowl. (Can be made 1 week ahead. Store airtight.)

For Barbecue Mop:
Mix all ingredients in bowl. Set aside until ready to use.

For Pork:
Place pork, fat side up, on work surface. Cut each pork piece lengthwise in half, forming total of 4 long strips. Place pork on baking sheet. Sprinkle Dry Seasoning Rub all over pork; rub into pork, covering completely. Cover and chill at least 2 hours and up to 6 hours.

Place wood chips in large bowl. Cover with cold water and let stand 30 minutes. Place handful of torn newspaper into bottom of charcoal chimney.* Top with 25 charcoal briquettes. Remove upper rack from barbecue grill. Place chimney on lower grill rack. Light newspaper and let charcoal burn until gray ash color, about 30 minutes.

Open 1 bottom grill vent. Turn out hot charcoal onto 1 side of lower rack. Using metal spatula, spread charcoal to cover approximately 1/3 of rack. Remove 1 cup of wood chips from water and drain (keep remaining chips in water). Scatter over coals (avoid using too many wet chips, which may douse the fire). Fill foil loaf pan halfway with water and place on lower grill rack on opposite side of coals.

Place upper grill rack on barbecue. Arrange pork, fat side up, on upper grill rack above loaf pan. Cover grill with lid, positioning top vent directly over pork. Place stem of candy thermometer through top vent, with gauge on outside and tip near pork (thermometer should not touch meat or grill rack); leave in place during cooking. Check temperature after 5 minutes. Use top and bottom vents to maintain temperature range between 225°F. and 250°F., opening vents wider to increase heat and closing to decrease heat. Leave any other vents closed.

After 30 minutes, use technique described above to light an additional 15 charcoal briquettes in same charcoal chimney set atop bricks, cement or other nonflammable surface.

When cooking temperature of barbecue falls below 225°F., use oven mitts to lift off upper grill rack with pork and place on heatproof surface. Using tongs, add half of hot gray charcoal to bottom rack. Sprinkle about 1 cup drained wood chips over charcoal. Reposition upper rack on barbecue with pork above loaf pan. Brush pork lightly with Barbecue Mop. Cover with lid.

About once an hour, light more charcoal in chimney and replenish charcoal and wood chips as necessary to maintain temperature between 225°F. and 250°F., brushing pork lightly with Barbecue Mop each time grill is opened. Open grill only when necessary and cover as quickly as possible to minimize loss of heat and smoke. Cook pork until meat thermometer inserted into center of meat registers between 165°F. and 170°F., turning occasionally, about 3 hours total.

Transfer pork to baking sheet. Let stand 10 minutes. When cool enough to handle, shred pork into bite-size pieces, discarding any fat. Mix any meat juices accumulated on baking sheet into pork. Spoon pork onto bottom halves of buns. Drizzle with Barbecue Sauce. Top with Coleslaw and bun tops.

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