French Wine Club

French Club - November

This month we present another outstanding Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe from the exciting 2009 vintage. Your allocation is for one bottle of the Domaine de la Charbonniere Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe Les Hautes Brusquières Cuvée Speciale 2009.

Domaine de la Charbonniere was created in 1912 when Eugene Maret bought the property as a gift for his wife, the daughter of a local wine grower. Their son Fernand Maret maintained the estate and his son Michel Maret is now proprietor.

Maret’s estate of 45+ acres is primarily in the eastern and northern sectors of the appellation, with large holdings in La Crau and the well-known lieu-dit of Brusquières.  These are classic, traditional styles of Châteauneuf du Pâpe.

Les Hautes Brusquières Cuvée Speciale is sourced solely from les Brusquières.  Situated on an elevated plateau in the northwest portion of the AOC with vines ranging from 30 to 50 years old, Les Brusquières is one of the best sites in the AOC.   The vineyard is studded with galets,  the famous round stones of the region, sitting above  clay subsoil. Clay soils retain excess moisture much better than other soils, especially important in dry years like 2009.


"The dark ruby 2009 Les Hautes Brusquières Cuvée Speciale (a blend of 60% Grenache and a whopping 40% Syrah, with the Grenache aged in foudres and the Syrah in small oak) has a full-bodied mouthfeel with loads of glycerin. (I am sure the alcohol is 15% plus.) This wine, displaying notes of black cherries intermixed with black currants, licorice and forest floor as well as hints of incense and camphor, is very well made. Luscious and expansive, it is ideal for drinking over the next 10-15 years." - 93 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

This is an atypical cuvée in terms of its complexity of aromas: deep spice, black fruit flavors and chocolate notes are overlaid with leather and a wild complexity. This complex nectar is drinkable now, but  could benefit from long cellaring of up to 15 years from vintage.

Recipe: Slow Roasted Beef Tenderloin  Serves six to eight.

1 whole beef tenderloin (about 6 lb.), trimmed of the chain and of excess fat and sinew
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
About 25 sprigs fresh thyme

Heat the oven to 250°F. Season the beef generously with salt and pepper. Fold the thin tail piece under itself to create a roast of even thickness. Using twine, tie the beef at regular intervals to help it hold its shape during cooking. Tuck the thyme beneath the twine all the way around the beef, spacing the sprigs about 2 inches apart. Put the beef in a roasting pan and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part reads 130°F for medium rare, 1-3/4 to 2 hours. Transfer to a carving board, tent with foil, and let rest for 30 minutes. Just before serving, carve into 1/2 inch slices.