French Wine Club
French Club - October
We're pleased to present the first of the stunning 2009 Chateauneuf du Papes, with wines from Cuvée du Vatican. Your allocation is for one bottle of either Cuvée du Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape 2009 or Cuvée du Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Sixtine 2009.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape (70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre, Cinsault and other grapes) was given the same upbringing as the 2008. Its dark ruby/plum color is followed by sweet aromas of raspberries, black cherries, forest floor and Provencal herbs. Attractive and soft with light to moderate tannin as well as medium to full body, it should drink nicely for 10-12 years. 92 points
Far more structured, with significant minerality, power and tannin is the dense ruby/purple-colored 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Sixtine (45% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 25% Mourvedre). This cuvee is always aged in 100% small barrels, of which 9-10% are new. A backward wine for the vintage, it reveals serious structure, powerful tannin and abundant mineral notes backed up by full body and impressive layers of fruit and structure. It requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should last 15-20 years thereafter. 94 points
About Cuvée du Vatican Winery The Diffonty family goes as far back as 1673. At that time, they were already involved in agriculture and cultivated vines as well as olive and cherry trees. Gradually, the vines became the dominant culture. There is typical rich French history with this estate. In 1900 the Diffonty family owned a mere 2 hectares of vineyards and over the years grew their holdings steadily. In 1958 the Cuvee du Vatican trademark was created and blessed by the Pope.
Jean-Marc Diffonty is the 4th generation at the domain and has been responsible, since his father Félician Diffonty left the charge in 1993. Félician Diffonty was the mayor of Chateauneuf du Pape 1965-1995 and it was him who in 1958 named the domaine Cuvée du Vatican - with blessings by the pope! In 1996 Jean Marc was made president of the Young Winemakers of Châteauneuf du Pape.
The property currently owns 23 hectares of AOC Châteauneuf du Pape. White wine is made from 1 hectare.
The blend for the classic red cuvée comes from 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Mourvedré and 5% Cinsault. The grapes are not de-stemmed. The fermented wine is matured for 18-30 months in old foudres. Cuvée Reserve Sixtine comes from old vines: 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Mourvedré. The yield is limited to 25 hl./ha. The wine is first matured in steel tanks and then for about one year in new barriques (60%) and old foudres.
A further 10 hectares of Côtes du Rhône Villages and 4 hectares of Côtes du Rhône are owned by the estate.
Cuvee du Vatican is a fantastic example of what Châteauneuf du Pape should taste like. This estate's profile has risen over the years and a sure sign of this was grabbing 19th spot on Wine Spectator's top 100 wines back in 2005.
Recipe: Roasted Boneless Leg of Lamb with Olive-Mustard Stuffing, serves 6-8
I like to pre-season roasts like this and let them sit overnight. The seasoning really permeates the meat and makes the whole thing more succulent. The advantage of a boneless leg of lamb is that you can get the seasoning inside and when it is done it is easier to slice and serve. Tying the roast is not that big a deal. You can look on the internet for a demonstration or just wing it. The idea is just to get the whole thing to stay together. You will cut all the string off before you serve so it does not have look great going in. It is also fun to play around with different stuffings perhaps using olives and dried figs, olives and anchovies, or a simple paste of roasted garlic, lemon juice, and parsley. Developing some confidence around a dish like this will allow to have an impressive and elegant go-to dish when company is coming. For a real treat, enjoy this dish with this months Chateauneuf-du-Pape from Cuvee Vatican
Boneless Leg of lamb ( these can vary in size from 3-5 lbs)
salt and pepper
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tsp rosemary minced
1 ½ tbs Dijon mustard
40 pitted black olives ( Kalamata - give these a good rinse as they tend to be quite salty and intense - Nyons, Gaeta, Niçoise or Arbequina ( if you use niçoise or Arbequina you will need more like 60 as they are so much smaller…. Do not use oil cured as these will be too salty.)
3 tbs of olive oil
Combine the garlic, rosemary, mustard, olives, and oil in a food processor and puree. Open the leg of lamb and lay it flat on your work surface. Season the inside with a little salt and pepper, then smear generously with the olive-mustard paste. Roll the lamb up into a compact even shape and tie with kitchen twine. Season the outside with salt, pepper and some more rosemary. Refrigerate overnight.
Remove from the refrigerator 1-2 hours before roasting so the lamb can return to room temperature. Preheat oven to 375 and roast for one hour. The time will vary but you are looking for an internal temp between 125-130 for medium rare to medium lamb. Remove the lamb and allow to rest for 30 minutes. ( I really mean this last part. Get in the habit of allowing whole chickens, roasts of pork, beef, and lamb to rest and you will be amazed at the difference in moisture and flavor. I usually allow the roast to rest lightly covered by foil on a shelf in the kitchen, though sometimes I just let the whole thing rest on the open oven door. Don't be too worried about the meat cooling down as they hold heat very well. You will know the meat is well rested if very little juice is released when you slice the lamb…)

