This month we present another iconic French wine, Grange des Pères. 

Founded in 1992, Grange des Peres has quickly become arguably the greatest and most respected domaine in the entire Languedoc region. Located in the village of Aniane, the estate is run by former physiotherapist Laurent Vaillé. His impeccable resumé includes stints with Gerard Chave and Francois Coche-Dury, and, as Andrew Jefford writes in The New France, "...this background in wine-craftsmanship is evident in every bottle that comes from his cellar." The red sees up to two years in wood, but the oak comes across as seamlessly integrated even upon release. Extremely conscientious viticulture -- low-cropping young vines, harvesting ripe and healthy fruit -- are de rigeur here.

Robert Parker:  "Voluptuously-textured, with superb concentration, this full-bodied, beautifully pure, intense, layered wine is a dead-ringer for a top-notch Chateauneuf du Pape or Coteaux de Baux. Availability is limited, but readers who have access to it should consider buying it by the case. This estate’s wines are terribly hard to locate in the United States, selling out instantly upon arrival on our shores. Nevertheless, it is important for The Wine Advocate to report on them as doing so may inspire young winemakers in the Languedoc to follow in the footsteps of Laurent Vaille, the dedicated, highly talented winemaker of Domaine La Grange des Peres."

David Schildknecht of Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave the 2007 vintage 94 points and raved:  "A saline, alkaline, kelp-, and oyster shell-aura such as one would more usually encounter in a white wine is evident already on the nose of Vaille’s red 2007 Grange des Peres, along with a garrigue-typical evocation of wild fennel and juniper. That said, ripe plum and cassis abound as well, with the tart edge of fruit skin; piquancy of plum pit; and aforementioned mineral and herbal elements collaborating on an impressively rich yet brightly juicy and vibrantly interactive performance that practically bursts forth in a sustained and palate-staining finish of invigoration as well as saliva-inducing savor. I predict it will be exciting to follow for at least the next dozen years."

"During my balmy mid-April visit, Laurent Vaille reminded me that his low-lying vineyards were still at risk of frost due to their tendency to collect cold air coming off of the nearby mountains and funneling through the Gorges de l’Herault; and that, for the same reason, he experienced wide diurnal swings and welcome cool nights even during the critical ripening weeks of 2009. Here is an address where the early promise of 2007 has been fully redeemed in the bottle; in particular, the red displays the sort of energy, minerality, and focus that in many wines of this vintage has at least temporarily gone into remission. The 2008s – “a great vintage for aging in both red and white,” in Vaille’s words, and which will not be released until late this year – had been bottled for only a month when I tasted them. The wines of neither vintage finished malo until well after the return of warm weather – tardy by Languedoc standards, but not uncommon at this address. “I had to rack the 2008s twice just to rid them of CO2,” reports Vaille. The predominant impression of 2009 in red from barrel is one of confitured fruit, at times allied to heady florality such as one would more likely associate with the estate’s white. At least one barrel of Syrah – subsequently marked for culling – displayed a suspicious degree of precocious gaminess and downright funk. I predict that the finished 2009 red blend – as always, of Syrah, Mourvedre, and a lesser amount of Cabernet Sauvignon – is going to make one think it must include some very ripe Grenache! Most barrels of 2010 red had settled down to the point where their enticing ripeness, bright fruit and fine-grained but dense structure could be admired. In the end, Vaille notes, 2008 and 2010 were picked at sugar and pH levels nearly as high as those of 2009, albeit with a greater preservation of freshness and elegance in the resultant wines. And frankly, even when tasting individual lots (particularly of Mourvedre) at this address that exceed 15% alcohol, that level is scarcely noticeable as heat, much less roughness. The September 2010 rain, Vaille claims, not only kick-started the final spurt in maturation in his inherently late-ripening cepages, but even did him a favor by slightly diluting the juice in a small crop whose sugar accretion had overtaken its phenolic evolution. This is a vintage especially marked by the sort of cool nights of which he spoke, and the first-ever in which he did not harvest until October. “But we came within two degrees of losing the foliage to frost already on the 20th of September,” he adds."

RECIPE:  Gardiane de Taureau (Bullherd’s Beef Stew)  Serves 4-6

3 pounds beef shank, well trimmed of fat and cut into 2- inch pieces (ask the butcher to do this for you)
2 medium onions cut into rounds
4 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch lengths
1 cup beef or chicken broth
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 bottle of full bodied red wine
5 sprigs fresh parsley, 5 sprigs fresh thyme, and 4 sprigs fresh savory or tarragon  2-3 bay leaves
Peel from 1 orange, without the white pith, in one long spiral (optional)
1 small to medium-size onion, peeled and studded with whole cloves (optional)
5 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 cup chopped imported pitted green olives
1cup chopped pitted black Niçoise olives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste



Preparation:

1. On the day before serving this stew: Combine the meat, garlic, onions, carrots

 and wine in a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours, stirring once or twice (especially once at midnight)

2. Three hours before cooking and the invasion of your guests remove the meat from the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature.

3. Remove the meat from the marinate; drain well. Do not discard the marinade please.

4. In a large casserole, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat.

5. Brown the beef (shank or oxtail) on all sides, working in several batches, if necessary but just don't crowd the meat in the pan this is not a contest.

6. Once all the meat has been browned, return it to the pan where crowding is now permitted. Add the thyme, bay leaves and tarragon, olives, tablespoon of tomato paste, the broth (and a small onion studded with cloves and orange peel -both of which are optional)

7. Pour the marinade ingredients over the meat; season with salt and pepper.
8. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and barely simmer, half-covered, for 2 hours.

9. Discard the bay leaves and thyme sprigs. Transfer the stew to a deep serving platter.

10. Serve with boiled white rice, potatoes, or pasta.
 

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