This month we present another iconic wine from Chateuaneuf du Pape - 2008 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf du Pâpe.  The wine is a bit spendy ($140 per bottle, so we offer as an alternative a bottle of 2008 Cuilleron St Joseph L'amarybelle ($56).

“One estate, one wine” - that was Paul Avril’s philosophy at Clos des Papes.  Unlike some other notable estates in the region, Avril did not believe in creating a luxury cuvée above and beyond his regular Châteauneuf du Pape bottling.  Instead, he created the best wine he could with what each vintage gave him, and any juice that didn’t meet his exacting standard was sold in bulk to négociants.  Avril’s son Vincent now makes the wines at Clos des Papes, continuing a family winemaking tradition that stretches back 200 years.

The Clos des Papes red is a blend of approximately 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah and other grapes - including Muscardin, Vaccarèse, and Counoise - from 74 acres of vines around Châteauneuf. Vincent Avril keeps yields low, picks vineyard blocks separately for ideal ripeness and vinifies the destemmed grapes in ceramic-lined vats. The wine is aged in foudres (very large, neutral-wood vats) for up to 12 months before the final blend is assembled.  The wines are bottled without filtration. 

Parker on Clos des Papes:  Vincent Avril fashioned one of the finest 2008 Chateauneuf du Papes of the appellation. Made from a classic blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah and the rest an assortment of permitted varietals, it exhibits a dark color as well as a bouquet of lavender, kirsch, licorice, loamy balsamic notes and hints of roasted meats and herbs. Evolved by this estate’s standards, it is an elegant effort with surprising density and richness. I actually prefer it to the 2005 (which was The Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year). The 2008 should drink nicely for 10-15 years.

As always, I tasted through all the different foudres, and the 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape, which will have essentially the same blend, is a much less powerful wine than the 2007. Made from some of the smallest yields ever (16 hectoliters per hectare), with 14.7% alcohol, the 2008 should turn out to be a very good, elegant effort vaguely reminiscent of their 1999. It exhibits a deep ruby color as well as abundant black cherry fruit intermixed with notions of licorice, herbs, and earth, medium body, and good purity, depth, and ripeness. It should drink well at a young age, an anomaly for Clos des Papes, and keep for 10-12 years."

Cuilleron St Joseph l'Amarybelle:  Expressive aromas of raspberry, blackberry, dried violet, cinnamon and anise. Really exotic today, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors and a dusting of Asian spices. Gains weight and deeper fruit character with air, finishing with lingering notes of mulberry and candied flowers. This is already delicious. A modern style, with toasty espresso and bittersweet cocoa aromas backed by dark plum and ripe blackberry fruit. Long and velvety on the finish, with alluring sanguine and black tea hints.

Over the  years we have worked with this superb wine, we have recognized that it is perhaps the most consistently satisfying of the range of reds produced by Cuilleron. This cuvée is from a selection of older vines (all aged between 20 and 40 years) situated on terraced, hillside vineyards. Vinified in a similar fashion as the "Pierres Seches" but more concentrated and structured, the "L'Amarybelle" is fleshy and ripe with a hint of licorice married to the fruit of blackberries and plums. Firm but not too aggressively tannic, this wine has stature and breed and elevates the Saint Joseph appellation into the hierarchy of the finest of northern Rhone wines.

Recipe:  Spiced Lamb Burgers  Serves 4

These spicy, juicy and delicious burgers are an adaption of a recipe from the fantastic British nose-to-tail chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.

1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1/2 cinnamon stick, broken up
A pinch of cayenne pepper
3 teaspoons paprika
1 garlic clove, finely crushed
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
2 pounds ground lamb shoulder

For the spiced yogurt:
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 cup Greek yogurt
A tiny scrap of garlic, crushed with a little sea salt
A dozen fresh mint leaves, finely shredded
A pinch of sea salt
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1 Baguette, cut into 4 pieces
1 head Little Gem lettuce, leaves separated and washed
Some cucumber slices
1 small red onion, very finely sliced

In a dry saute pan, toast the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds, peppercorns, and cinnamon until fragrant, about a minute or so. Grind to a fine powder, then combine with the cayenne, paprika, garlic, and saltl. Add the ground lamb and mix thoroughly with your hands. Let stand for at least an hour for the flavors to develop.

Meanwhile, for the spiced yogurt, toast the cumin and coriander seeds in the pan you used for the burger spices. Grind to a fine powder, then stir into the Greek yogurt with the garlic, mint, and salt. Toast the sesame seeds in the same pan over medium heat until golden, shaking the pan as you go, for a minute or two. Leave to cool down a bit, then sprinkle over the yogurt.

Shape the lamb into 8 burgers about 3/4 inch thick. Lightly brush with oil, then place on a grill over high heat. For a medium-rare burger, you will probably need to grill for 3 to 4 minutes, then flip it over and cook the other side for a couple of minutes.

Let the burgers rest for a few minutes while you warm up the baguette pieces.

Slice the baguette pieces. Spoon the yogurt dressing into the baguettes, followed by the lettuce, cucumber, onion and lamb burgers.

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