It's hard to believe that we havent offered Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf du Pâpe in quite a while (since early 2008); it's been one of our go to CdP's since we opened the shops. This month you have a choice from several vintages - all delicious and ready to drink!  (All vintages might not be available at timeof purchase - limited to stock on hand).

Le Vieux Donjon was founded in 1979 with the marriage of Lucien and Marie José Michel. Together they make a classic Chateauneuf-du-Pape, one exemplifies the power and elegance of Grenache and Syrah without the influence of new oak, and that ages and evolves wonderfully.

The domaine covers 30 acres of vineyards, all farmed organically. The soils are mainly limestone and clay, and are studded with the round, rust-colored stones for which the vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape are famous. The oldest vines are over 80 years old and so filled with these stones that a special tractor is needed to work the soil.

The wine is vinified traditionally in cement vats. Grapes from the domaine’s multiple vineyard parcels are picked separately, but vinified together with stems.  After fermentation the wine ages for approximately 12-15 months in large neutral oak casks called foudres. The cepage is 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% of a mixture of Cinsault and Mourvedre.

Reviews: 

2006 Robert Parker gave the 2006 vintage 92 points, and opined "Vieux Donjon's 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape is a powerful, seriously-endowed effort for the vintage, displaying more structure and muscle than most wines in this forward, fruit-friendly year. Classic Provencal characteristics of garrigue, licorice, lavender, pepper, and kirsch soar from the glass of this dark ruby/purple-tinged offering. In the mouth, it is masculine, tannic, medium to full-bodied, and powerfully built. Potentially one of the longest lived wines of the vintage, it will require 4-5 years of bottle age, and should evolve for two decades."  (Tanzer awarded the wine 94 points, and the Wine Spectator gave it 93 points - and called the 2005 vintage their #3 wine of the year - this is a spectacular wine!!).
 

2007 Parker gave the 2007 Vintage 95 points: "Still backward and unevolved, the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape (75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, and 5% other authorized varietals) was aged completely in foudre. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by a reticent, but burgeoning bouquet of black cherries, plums, black currants, garrigue, lavender, and licorice. One can sense the weight, power, and richness in the mouth, but the tannins are there, and the wine also has very good acids. Consequently, patience will be required, and this is one 2007 where 2-3 years of bottle age is warranted. The wine is capable of lasting 15-20+ years. This pure, deep, full-bodied 2007 is the finest Chateauneuf du Pape Vieux Donjon has made since their sensational 1998 and 1990."

2008 The Wine Spectator gave the 2008 93 points: "This is rock-solid, with crushed raspberry, kirsch, juniper and smoked apple wood notes, backed by a broad, plush, spice- and anise-filled finish. Nicely rounded and integrated for the vintage."
Vieux Donjon's traditional winemaking is more and more in the hands of owner Lucien Michel's talented daughter, Claire, although both parents (Lucien and his wife Marie Jose) are still very involved.

Le Vieux Donjon is owned by Marie José and Lucien Michel. The domain was founded by the father of Lucien Michel, Marcel Michel.  Keeping to tradition, they make only one cuvée of red Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The 2006 comprises 75 percent Grenache (from vines averaging 90 years of age), 15 percent Syrah and 10 percent Mourvèdre and Cinsault. The Michels chose to retain 50 percent of the stems during fermentation to build the wine's structure.

The domain covers just over 34 acres of Chateauneuf du Pape. They follow a traditional vinification process, including an extended maceration with stems, long aging in older foudres. The individual varieties are not vinified separately the way they would be at most Chateaunuef estates. They only produce one cuvée of red and of white Chateauneuf du Pape is made.  Average production is about 3,200 cases.

I have been buying the wines of Le Vieux Donjon for well over a decade, and I continue to be impressed by how consistently classic they are. [This] continues to be the most underrated great estate of the appellation.  Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

The style of the wines is unashamedly, traditionelle - vins de garde with plenty of backbone and muscle to them. However, these are no clumsy blockbusters, but wines with real definition and elegance underneath powerful exteriors. … . These are well-constituted wines with great depth and extract, which manage to retain finesse. This is relatively rare in an appellation where size and clumsiness abound and one frequently looks in vain for subtlety…Sales of Le Vieux Donjon are not a problem for Marie-José and Lucien Michel. One can taste why.  Remington Norman, Rhone Renaissance

Here's a bit of background about the appellation:  Châteauneuf-du-Pape is an AOC for wine made near the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Rhône wine region in southeastern France. It is the most renowned appellation of the southern part of the Rhône Valley. Vineyards are located around Châteauneuf-du-Pape and in the neighboring villages Bédarrides, Courthézon and Sorgues between Avignon and Orange and covers slightly more than 7,900 acres .

A characteristic terroir of Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a layer of stones called galets ("pebbles"). The rocks are typically quartzite and remnants of Alpine glaciers that have been smoothed over millennia by the Rhône River. The stone retains heat during the day and releases it at night which can have an effect of hastening the ripening of grapes. The stones can also serve as a protective layer to help retain moisture in the soil during the dry summer months.

The appellation rules name thirteen grape varieties that are allowed to be used in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Since two of these, Grenache and Picpoul, may be used both in their noir (dark-skinned) and blanc (light-skinned) versions, the number of varieties allowed is in fact fifteen. Red varieties allowed are Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Picpoul Noir, Terret Noir, Counoise, Muscardin, Vaccarèse and Cinsaut, and white varieties are Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc, Picardan, Clairette, Roussanne and Bourboulenc. Both red and white varieties are allowed in red Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There are no restrictions as to the proportion of grape varieties to be used.

It is common to grow the vines as head pruned or bush vine, and this is the only vine training system allowed for the first four red varieties. Yields are restricted to two tons per acre.

In most red Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Grenache noir is the most common variety, although some producers use a higher proportion of Mourvèdre. Grenache produces a sweet juice that can have almost a jam-like consistency when very ripe. Syrah is typically blended to provide color and spice, while Mourvèdre can add elegance and structure to the wine. Some estates produce varietal (100%) Grenache noir, while a few producers insist on using at least a token amount of all thirteen permitted varieties in their blend.

Recipe: Roasted Boneless Leg of Lamb with Olive-Mustard Stuffing  serves 4-8

From Jeff: I like to pre-season roasts like this and let them sit overnight. The seasoning really permeates the meat and makes the whole thing more succulent. The advantage of a boneless leg of lamb is that you can get the seasoning inside and when it is done it is easier to slice and serve.

    Boneless Leg of lamb ( these can vary in size from 3-5 lbs)
    salt and pepper
    2 cloves garlic, chopped
    2 tsp rosemary minced
    1 ½ tbs  Dijon mustard
    40 pitted black olives: Kalamata (give these a good rinse as they tend to be quite salty and intense), Nyons, Gaeta, Niçoise or Arbequina. If you use Niçoise or Arbequina you will need more like 60 as they are so much smaller…. Do not use oil cured as these will be too salty.
    3 tbs of olive oil

Combine the garlic, rosemary, mustard, olives, and oil in a food processor and puree. Open the leg of lamb and lay it flat on your work surface. Season the inside with a little salt and pepper, then smear generously with the olive-mustard paste. Roll the lamb up into a compact even shape and tie with kitchen twine. Season the outside with salt, pepper and some more rosemary. Refrigerate overnight.

Remove from the refrigerator 1-2 hours before roasting so the lamb can return to room temperature. Preheat oven to 375 and roast for one hour. The time will vary but you are looking for an internal temp between 125-130 for medium rare to medium lamb. Remove the lamb and allow to rest for 30 minutes (you will know the meat is well rested if very little juice is released when you slice the lamb…).  Slice, serve, and enjoy with a glass of Vieux Donjon!

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