This month we present 2008 Chateau Fortia Châteauneuf du Pâpe, Cuvée Tradition.

One of the most historically important estates of the appellation, Chateau Fortia has been making wines since the late 1700s. It is well-known in French winedom that the owner of this property, Baron Pierre Le Roy, first promulgated very strict regulations under which Chateauneuf du Pape could be produced, This doctrine became the founding principles of the entire French appellation system in 1936. Fortia produces three cuvees from their 70+ acres of vines.

Fortia makes old school Châteauneufs, with more balanced, less fruit forward flavors.   This is especially apparent in the 2008 vintage, which saw cool weather,  rain, and a small crop.

2007 was a monster year in CdP - ripe, jammy, sweet fruit, high-alcohol, thick textures, astronomical Parker scores.  2008 is cooler, leaner, much more food friendly and enjoyable right now and in the short-to-medium future.

None of the super-extracted alcoholic in-your-face syrup that seduced so many folks in 2007, but still with the fruit, spice, herbs, tannins, and garrigue that we love and expect in CdP.

The wine shows hints of flowers with strong notes of dark-vine fruit and minerals. Lots of minerals, and hints of sweet cassis as well on the finish.

The Grand Vin of the Southern Rhône Valley, Châteauneuf is perhaps the quintessential blended wine. With 13 varieties of grapes allowed, 15 if you included both the light and dark skinned varieties of Grenache and Picpoul, each winemaker has the ability to craft a unique and distinct interpretation of the soils and climates of the region. While few producers use all or even most of the 13 varieties, most rely on Grenache to form the heart and soul of their wines. These are rather big and distinctly warm climate wines that are rich with alcohol. The tannins of Grenache are modest, so many of these wines require little aging to be enjoyed; yet many can improve over the course of a decade. Typically one finds rich strawberry and red cherry tones in Châteauneuf with complicating notes of herbs and lavender, frequently referred to as garrigue. There are frequently notes of game, leather and tar, typical of Syrah and Mourvèdre - two other important components of many wines.

RECIPE Pistachio-Crusted Rack of Lamb with Pancetta and Scallion Serves 4

From Ferran Adria, arguably the best chef on the planet, this delicious lamb rack recipe is a perfect partner with this month's wine.

• 1 tablespoon chopped thyme
• 1 1/2 teaspoons chopped rosemary
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• One 1 1/2 pound rack of lamb, frenched (8 chops)
• 6 ounces thinly sliced pancetta or bacon
• 8 scallions, white and tender green parts only

Preheat the oven to 400°.

In the bowl of a food processor, finely chop the pistachios with the thyme and rosemary. Add half of the olive oil and process to a paste; season with salt and pepper. Scrape half of the pistachio paste into a small bowl and stir in the remaining olive oil.

Coat the lamb with half of the remaining pistachio paste. Wrap the pancetta slices around the lamb, between the bones, leaving the bones exposed. Spread the remaining pistachio paste over the pancetta and set the rack in a small roasting pan. Roast the rack for about 40 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the meat registers 130° for medium-rare. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Reserve the pan drippings.

Meanwhile, spoon 1 teaspoon of the rendered pancetta fat from the roasting pan into a medium skillet and heat until shimmering. Add the scallions and cook over high heat until softened and browned in spots, about 4 minutes. Carve the lamb rack into four 2-chop servings and transfer them to plates along with the scallions. Drizzle the pistachio pesto all around and serve right away.

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