While the pundits have dismissed the 2008 Rhône vintage, I continue to find very good, if not great wines from this reportedly troubled vintage (try the 2008 Les Grands Bois Rasteau that's currently in both shop - it's brilliant!). 

Well,  the 2008 Vieux Télégraphe Télégramme Cuvée Châteauneuf du Pâpe is another example of a very well-made wine in an overlooked vintage. 

Younger vines (20-25 years old), 100% Grenache, taken from the famed Le Crau vineyard, farmed organically, second label to the famed Vieux Télégraphe * (VT).  First produced during the disastrous 2002 vintage as a declassification of VT, the label has taken off as an affordable option to more expensive Chateauneufs.

One of the few Châteauneuf du Pâpe estates to produce a second wine (as they do in most Bordeaux chateaux), Télégramme is a delicious, up-front, fruity, medium-bodied, soft effort displaying lots of herb-tinged strawberry and kirsch characteristics. It should drink well for 3-4 years.

Dark red in color,  Spicy red berries and smoked meat on the nose, with subtle garrigue and mineral notes adding complexity. Spicy red fruit flavors are finely etched and pure, carrying through a silky finish. This will drink well young.”

RECIPE Spit Roasted Duck with Orange and Rosemary Serves 4

The duck in this recipe comes out so crisp and delicious, with a deep-brown burnished skin, it’s almost like Chinese roast duck. But to render the fat, you really have to prick the skin all over — more than fifty times, in fact (count ‘em!).

• 1/2 cup orange marmalade
• 1/2 cup fresh orange juice
• 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
• One 4-to-4 1/2-pound duck
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for rotisserie cooking over indirect medium heat (or according to the instructions for your grill). Set up the drip pan under the center of the spit.

In a small saucepan, combine the marmalade, orange juice, balsamic vinegar, garlic, and rosemary and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool, then pour 1/4 cup of the sauce into a small bowl to use for basting the duck, and pour the rest into a small serving bowl.

Meanwhile, remove all the excess fat from the duck. Wash the duck and dry it thoroughly both inside and out with paper towels. With a sharp metal skewer, prick the duck skin all over in 50 places, especially the thighs. Season inside and out with salt and pepper. Tie the legs together and brush all over with a light coating of the orange-marmalade mixture.

Place the duck on the spit and secure it with the clamps. Attach it to the rotisserie mecha­nism, cover the grill, and cook until the tem­perature in the thickest part of the thigh reaches 160°F , 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 hours, depending on the heat of your grill. About 15 minutes before the duck is done, brush it all over again with more of the orange sauce.

When the duck is done, transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 15 minutes.

Carve the duck and serve with the remaining orange sauce.

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