This month, we return to the Rhone Valley and present 2007 Domaine des Pallières Gigondas Les Racines Vieilles Vignes. Domaine de Pallières is an organically farmed estate in Gigondas, owned by Daniel Brunier (Vieux Telegraphe) and importer Kermit Lynch.

Made from the oldest vines on the estate, the 2007 Les Racines is dense and inky, with a powerful perfume of wild herbs and berries that leads you back to the glass again and again. Each sip reveals something new — a hint of licorice, the taste of raspberries or black cherries. Yet for all its power, this blend of Grenache with a small proportion of Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette is remarkably supple and lush. Drink it with rich, juicy grilled meats, spicy barbecued ribs, a classic beef daube or duck breast.

This primarily Grenache-based wine was awarded 94 points from Parker:  "Its dense ruby/purple hue is accompanied by an extraordinary bouquet of black raspberries, kirsch, licorice, crushed rocks, and flowers. Full-bodied with sensational texture, purity, and length as well as remarkable elegance and freshness, this stunning Gigondas can be enjoyed over the next 15-20 years. Bravo! "

The estate takes its name from the lieu-dit of Les Pallières. Most of its vines, and the cellar and residential buildings, have been there for well over a century. But the single, 333-acre plot that forms the estate overlaps some way into neighboring lieux-dits such as Thomas, Poncet, Terrasse du Diable and Pas de Vège: these all back onto the northern end of the Dentelles de Montmirail cliffs, face northwest and are very similar in composition.

The soil is partly covered by limestone scree from the neighbouring rocky peaks; there is also a fairly high proportion of scree (about 30%) in the sandy-chalk topsoil, but also in the thin layer of clay sitting on the bedrock. The higher you climb, the closer you are to the rock: the soil layers become thinner and less distinct. From edge to edge of the estate, the altitude ranges from 250-400 metres.

In such an environment, the only choice is to grow vines in “step terraces”: a series of workable horizontal levels that can retain rainwater within reach of the roots. The Gigondas AOC prohibits vine watering.

The location’s altitude and exposure create day-night temperature differentials which, coupled with the soil’s chalk content, strongly contribute color and tannic structure to the red wines, which are made largely from old Grenache (80%) but also from Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Clairette.

All of the above features mean that even in a hot year, grape maturity comes slowly. The vines must be tended with extreme care, and cannot support excessive crop loads.

Unlike Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Gigondas AOC prohibits the making of white wine; only reds and rosés are allowed, with reds exceeding 90% of output.  Given its exposure and altitude, Les Pallières is well known as a lieu-dit where grapes ripen very late – and they are mainly Grenache and Mourvèdre, both highly demanding in this respect.

It took Brunier  five years to analyze and tame the place, and thus decide what style of vinification cellar was best suited to making Les Pallières wines. Construction began in early 2003, so the facility would be ready by harvest time. The small cellar, its back wall shaped like a church’s choir, receives the grapes by gravity flow; truncated wood and concrete vats combine for greater complexity; each parcel is vinified separately; and the team enjoy the challenging period of vinification.

The grapes are hand picked, all bunches are systematically sorted, destemming is selective, and, as for all wines made by Les Vignobles Brunier, fermentation is started by indigeneous yeasts. Fermentation temperatures are controlled, the quest for minerality involves minimal œnological acts, and vattings last 25-30 days.

Recipe:  Anchovy and Rosemary Roasted Lamb with Green Beans, Lemon and Pine Nuts Serves 4

Lamb with anchovy herb paste is a classic combination. The anchovy doesn’t come across as fishy tasting—it simply lends a savory note that blends beautifully with the meat.

• 6 garlic cloves
• 9 flat anchovy fillets, drained and patted dry
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 2 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 boneless leg of lamb, trimmed and tied (have your butcher do this)
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 3/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/2 lb green beans, trimmed and cut diagonally into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 1/2 teaspoons finely grated fresh lemon zest
• 4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

Mince garlic and anchovies and mash to a paste with a large heavy knife, then stir together with oil and rosemary in a small bowl. Pat lamb dry and transfer, fat side up, to rack in pan. Make several small 1-inch-deep slits in lamb with a paring knife, then rub marinade over entire surface of lamb, pushing some marinade into slits. Reserve a little of the marinade for serving. Marinate lamb, loosely covered, at room temperature 2 hours.
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 400ºF.
Sprinkle lamb all over with salt and pepper, then roast until thermometer inserted into thickest part of lamb registers 125ºF for medium-rare, about 1 1/2 hours (temperatures in thinner parts of leg may register up to 160ºF). Let stand 30 minutes before slicing.

Cook beans in a 4-quart saucepan of boiling salted water until just tender, about 5 minutes, then drain well in a colander. Transfer to a bowl and toss with nuts, parsley, zest, oil, and salt and pepper to taste.

Slice the lamb and arrange on a large platter. Drizzle the remaining anchovy-rosemary marinade on top. Serve the green beans on the side.

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