Well, the hits just keep on coming! This month we have a wine that scored 99+ from Robert Parker, one of the gems from the 2007 CDP vintage: Clos des Papes!
According to Parker: "Paul Avril was a bigger-than-life vigneron, a visionary, and a great teacher, but Vincent has been in charge for a number of years, and he has rewarded his father with what I believe is the greatest Chateauneuf du Pape made since 1978 and 1990, the 2007. I have not only tasted this wine at the estate, but I purchased it for my cellar, and have now drunk it on three separate occasions out of bottle. It is unquestionably one of the great Chateauneufs of my lifetime, and I suspect it will merit a three digit score after another 3-4 years of cellaring. The blend is generally 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, and the rest small amounts of Muscardin, Vaccarese, Counoise, and Syrah. It exhibits what is probably the deepest color I have ever seen here, and the finished alcohol is a high (for Clos des Papes) 15.5%. Still slightly restrained because of its recent bottling, but wow, what potential complexity, mind-boggling richness, and compelling flavor profile are apparent. It is a sublime expression of the art of winemaking as evidenced by its dense purple color and big, sweet kiss of kirsch, framboise, blackberries, licorice, roasted herbs, and smoked meat. It hits the palate with a fascinating combination of substance, power, full-bodied authority yet extraordinary freshness, elegance, and precision. Give it 3-4 years of cellaring, and watch it unleash its glory over the next three decades. This is a prodigious wine of great quality from one of the most important reference point estates in Chateauneuf du Pape.
Paul Avril, one of the legendary figures of Chateauneuf du Pape, passed away this year, but his talented son, Vincent, will continue to produce estate-bottled, traditional Chateauneuf du Papes. Visiting here without Paul in the cellars was melancholy."
We also have a few bottles of the equally sublime 2006 (98 Parker).
RECIPE: Squab with Vin Santo and Parsnip Purée serves 4
The vin santo in this recipe gives the sauce a creamy, honey-toasted flavor and beautiful amber color, and with the rich dark tender squab meat pairs extremely well with the velvety fruit, and spice of the Chateauneuf-du-pape.
* 2 pounds parsnips, peeled and chopped
* 1/4 cup hazelnut oil
* 3 tablespoons butter, softened
* Salt and white pepper
* 2 whole squabs, about 12 ounces each***
* 2 rosemary sprigs
* 2 cloves garlic
* 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
* 1-tablespoon olive oil
* 1 tablespoon chopped onion
* ¼ cup vin santo
* ½ cup chicken stock, or low sodium chicken broth
* Salt and cracked black pepper
* 2 teaspoons chopped parsley
* 2 teaspoons chopped thyme
* 2 teaspoons chopped oregano
Parsnips:
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and add the parsnips, boil for about 2o minutes until the parsnips are tender. Drain, and put the parsnips in a food processor and puree until smooth. With the machine running, drizzle in the hazelnut oil and season with the salt and pepper. Fold in the softened butter until smooth. Keep warm.
Squab:
Heat the oven to 500F. Stuff the cavity of each squab with a sprig of rosemary and a whole garlic clove. In a large sauté pan, melt the butter over medium high heat, add the squab and cook on both sides for 2-3 minutes or until browned. Transfer to the oven and cook for 8-10 minutes. Remove and keep warm.
Cook the onions in the butter until softened, add the vin santo and simmer for about 1 minute until reduce by a third. Add the stock and cook down for about 5 minutes until thickened. Season with salt and pepper, and add the parsley, thyme and oregano.
Cut the squab into 4 pieces and serve on top of the parsnip puree with the sauce drizzled around the plate. Garnish with a sprig of fresh rosemary.
***squab is a member of the dove family and is available from quality butchers. If you cannot find squab, you can substitute the same weight of quail.
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