French Wine Club
Sept '09 Châteauneuf
We're waiting for our next shipment of fabulous 2007 Châteauneufs to arrive. In the meantime, here's three wines from Maison Arnoux's Vieux Clocher line, also from the phenomenal 2007 vintage. These are wines to drink while waiting for your Châteauneufs to age.
First off, we have their 2007 Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages The village of Cairanne was allowed to put their name prominently on the label in 1953, recognizing the quality of the grapes grown there. This primarily Grenache-based wine (70%), filled out with Syrah (25%) and Mourvèdre, has a delicate nose of red and black fruits with hints of spice. It delivers good fruit and balance and works well with grilled or roasted meats.
Both Vayqueras and Gigondas are one tier up on the AOC tier for wines from the Cotes du Rhone. (At the base are simple Cotes du Rhone, next Cotes du Rhone Villages, then Cotes du Rhone named villages - like Cairanne), then Crus. For a full discussion of this system, please click here.
2007 Vacqueyras Vieux Clocher Cuvée des Seigneurs exhibits plenty of kirsch, Provencal herbs, and pepper. Snuggled at the feet of the Dentelles de Montmirail, this Grenache (70%) and Syrah (%30%) blend has an intense garnet color, a bouquet of ripe fruits, hints of spices, roasted coffee and underbrush. It should drink well for 3-4 years.
The 2007 Gigondas Vieux Clocher is 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 15% Mourvedre. The wine undergoes partial destemming, and is aged in wood foudres offers lovely berry fruit interwoven with roasted Provençal herbs and a meaty character presented in a well-made, fruit-driven, moderately intense format. This elegant Gigondas is ideal for drinking during its first 5-6 years of life.
Recipe (from Andy Carthy) Pan Roasted Lamb Loins with Olive Stuffed Tomatoes serves 8
The lamb loins can be stuffed and tied up to 4 hours in advance making this a relatively easy dish to execute, thereby allowing you plenty of time to spend with your guests and taste and enjoy this great line up of Arnoux Vieux Clocher wines.
Lamb:
* 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
* 2 garlic cloves, minced
* 1 large shallot, minced
* 1 teaspoon minced rosemary
* 1 teaspoon minced sage
* 1 teaspoon minced marjoram
* 1 teaspoon minced thyme
* 2 boneless lamb loins with tenderloins attached (about 3 pounds), thin layer of fat and rib apron left on, at room temperature
* Salt and freshly ground pepper
Tomatoes:
* 3/4 cup chopped basil
* 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
* 1/4 cup pitted Niçoise olives, chopped
* 2 teaspoons chopped rosemary
* 8 large plum tomatoes, sliced crosswise 1/3 inch thick
* Salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat the oven to 275°. In a mini food processor, process the basil, olive oil, olives and rosemary to a paste.
Arrange the tomato slices on a large, rimmed baking sheet and season with salt and pepper. Spread about 1 teaspoon of the tapenade over each tomato slice. Bake for 1 1/2 hours, until the tomatoes are very tender. Keep warm while you prepare the lamb.
In a small bowl, combine 2 tablespoons of the oil with the garlic, shallot and herbs. Lay the loins on a work surface, fat side down, and season with salt and pepper. Spread the herb paste all over the lamb. Roll each loin over the tenderloin and rib apron to make a neat roulade. With butcher’s twine, tie the meat at 1-inch intervals. Season the lamb with salt and pepper.
Preheat the oven to 350°. In a 12-inch skillet (preferably cast-iron), heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil until shimmering. Add the lamb loins and cook over moderate heat, turning, until browned all over, about 20 minutes total.
Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the loins for 10 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 125°. Transfer the loins to a carving board to rest for 10 minutes.
Cut off the strings. Carve the loins into 1-inch-thick slices and serve with the tomatoes on the side.

