This month, we're presenting wines from perhaps my favorite Châteauneuf producer: Christophe Delorme of Domaine de la Mordorée.  Delorme has been farming biodynamically for years, and is considered to be one of the leaders of biodynamic viticulture.  His stated objective as a winemaker is to be unintrusive and maintain total respect for his terroir and the fruit it produces. His dream is to achieve a perfect balance between concentration, terroir and flavors.

We offer a choice of either

• 2006 Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe Reine du Bois (70% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Syrah, 5% Vaccarese, 5% Cinsault and 5% Counoise) ($140)
  
• 2007 Mordoree Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe Reine des Bois (Grenache 80 %, Mourvèdre 10 %,
  Syrah 5 %, Counoise 2.5 %, Vaccarese 2.5 %) ($140)
• 2007 Mordoree Lirac Rouge Reine des Bois (1/3 each Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) ($43)
  

From Robert Parker: 

"The 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe Reine des Bois is one of the few wines of the vintage to rival the estate’s 2007 counterpart. I suspect Mordoree’s 2007 will put on more weight, but they have made one of the singular wines of the vintage in 2006. Performing far greater from bottle than it did last year from barrel, the 2006 boasts a dense purple color as well as an amazing bouquet of charcoal, blackberries, cherries, licorice, incense, and spring flowers. It hits the palate with a rush of full-bodied opulence and decadence with super-rich fruit, superb purity, a broad, layered, velvety-textured mouthfeel, and a stunningly long finish that lasts nearly 50 seconds. This is a great effort for a 2006! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.  95+ points"

"The purple-colored 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe Reine des Bois is loaded. ... It reveals an extraordinary depth of juicy blackberry and cassis fruit interwoven with notes of roasted herbs, meat juices, camphor, and a touch of licorice. The wine boasts great depth, a superb texture, and a full-bodied richness nicely framed by high yet velvety tannins and fresh acidity. The vintage’s remarkable aromatic complexity and freshness are apparent in this big, substantial, authoritative wine. It will need 3-4 years of cellaring, and should keep for 20-25 years. 96-97 points"

From the Wine Spectator:

2007 Lirac Reine des Bois:  "Really loaded with fruit, this shows raspberry, boysenberry and blackberry notes all layered with sweet spice and bacony toast before the fresh, mineral-driven finish takes over. Impressive for the appellation" 92 points. 

I am offering the Lirac as it is more moderately priced than the Châteauneufs, and will offer something to drink now, while waiting for your Châteauneufs to age.

RECIPE Grilled Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Tomato-Fennel Vinaigrette Makes 10-12 servings

There is just no getting away from the fact that lamb and Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe are great together. Here is a leg of lamb recipe that takes advantage of the grilling weather and the ripeness of summer tomatoes.

Call your meat market ahead to order a boned, butterflied leg of lamb, and ask that the thickness be as even as possible (two to three inches thick). Start the lamb the day before; it needs to be refrigerated overnight covered with the rub. Don't skip this step as it will make all the difference in the dish.

Lamb

• 9 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
• 2 anchovy fillets, minced
• 2 teaspoons fennel seeds
• 2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 (4- to 5-pound) butterflied leg of lamb, trimmed of excess fat and sinew (from one 61/2-pound bone-in leg of lamb)

Vinaigrette

• 1 1/2 teaspoons fennel seeds
• 1 pound tomatoes, seeded, finely chopped (about 2 cups)
• 1/2 cup Kalamata or Niçoise olives, pitted, finely chopped
• 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Coarse kosher salt
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh basil

Combine minced garlic, chopped rosemary, minced anchovies, fennel seeds, salt, and freshly cracked black pepper in small bowl or in mortar with pestle. Using sturdy wooden spoon or pestle, mash mixture into paste. Mix in extra-virgin olive oil. Rub paste thoroughly over both sides of lamb. Place lamb in 15x10x2-inch glass baking dish; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Let lamb stand at room temperature 1 hour before grilling.

Vinaigrette:  Stir fennel seeds in small dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant and slightly darker in color, about 2 minutes. Transfer to medium saucepan. Add tomatoes, olives, and vinegar. Stir in oil; season with salt and ground black pepper. Set aside.

Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Place lamb on grill rack. Cover barbecue and open vents; grill lamb until instant-read thermometer inserted into meat registers 130°F for medium-rare, turning occasionally, about 25 minutes. Transfer lamb to cutting board; let rest 10 minutes. Place saucepan with vinaigrette on slightly cooler part of barbecue and heat just until warm, about 5 minutes. Stir in thinly sliced basil leaves.

Cut lamb crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Transfer to platter. Spoon vinaigrette over and serve.

• < Prev
• Next >