Bargain Wine Club

5th Allocation - Bargain



First off is Closerie de Lys Blanc - a wonderfully made crisp white wine from the Languedoc in France that is equal parts Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Blanc and Rolle (aka Vermentino). The domaine located  fifty miles west of Carcassonne in a lovely, isolated mountain valley hidden in the Pyrenean foothill.  The vineyard parcels start at the village but the majority climb the heights of the south-facing flanks, growing between 280 and 530 meters above sea level in meager limestone soils.   Closerie des Lys Les Fruitières is equal parts Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Vermentino, and smells mouth-.wateringly of apple, grapefruit, pineapple, lemon zest, and mint. It clings impressively with resinous, saline notes accompanying its tart fruits, and finishes with ample refreshment and a slight, by no means unpleasant bitterness.

Next, we've got Smoke Screen Chardonnay - a wildly popular wine full throttled old school Napa Chardonnay  that has been flying out the door.   We've come to the last of the vintage, and wanted to be sure that our beloved Bargain Clubbers got to get at least one bottle!   The aptly named Smoke Screen Chardonnay is just that - a top five premium Napa Chardonnay producer had too much wine (several hundred cases too much), so he sold the already finished wine at fire sale prices to someone who rebranded it, bottled it with a screwcap closure,  who sold it to us.  We can't divulge the producer, but the same wine under its original name sells for $40+ per bottle in other shops.  This is perfectly balanced Napa juice in an elegant California style - partially barrel fermented with a lovely bouquet, creamy mouthfeel, vibrant fruit, nice minerality and an oaky and buttery richness.

Then, there's Evening Land Celebration Beaujolais Villages - a lush and fruity Gamay made by famed Meursault master Dominique Lafon  Evening land Vineyards' Beaujolais Villages is made from Moulin a Vent fruit, the winemaking was supervised by Dominique Lafon.

Dominique Lafon's Domaine des Comtes-Lafon is world renowned for producing some of the greatest white Burgundies ever made. As Neal Martin (Robert Parker's Wine Advocate) states: "A great wine from Dominique Lafon is something that will be etched upon your vinous memory for many years".  The Evening Land project, headed by Burgundy superstar Dominique Lafon takes an interesting twist with a new Celebration Gamay Noir. Originally a project from Oregon has jumped oceans with a new wine from winemaking team Christophe Vial and the master Lafon. Christophe trained under Dominique, and apprenticed at De Montille, one of the most prized vineyards in the Cotes du Beaune. This edition is 100% Beaujolais, sourced primarily from Moulin-A-Vent and vinified in the traditional French style.


St Martin de la Garrigue Cuvée Tradition. I've always loved St Martin de la Garrigue red wine blends.  One of the markers from wines from the Languedoc is the presence of flavors of Garrigue, the different herbs and brush that grow all over the region along with the vines. I always liked that Chateau St. Martin de la Garrigue had that in its name as well as in its wines.    This  tank-raised blend of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah – is irresistibly brimming with exuberant red raspberry, tinged with wood smoke in the nose, and accompanied by hints of sage, marjoram, and mint on a faintly tart, refreshingly bright, yet impressively lush palate. Fresh, herb-tinged strawberry and red raspberry saturate the finish as though they were being exuded straight from a chinois. This should remain terrific for a couple of years, and is a red you ought not to fear chilling slightly when barbeque season arrives.

Boroli Anna Langhe Rosso is a great blend of Nebbiolo (the grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco), softened by Barbera, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.  Raspberries and ripe red  fruit on the nose with a balanced acidity. Aged in steel and barrel for six months. Ready for drinking upon release, or cellaring.  Fattoria Boroli is a relatively new project, and the rapid ascent of this new, small, family-run winery,consisting of Cascina Bompe vineyard in Alba and La Brunella in Barolo’s Castiglione Falletto, is in part due to their consultant, noted enologist Beppe Caviola, Gambero Rosso’s “Winemaker of the Year” in 2002. 

Terre d'Ardoise Carignan Aromas of black raspberry jam, crystallized ginger, and licorice lead to a rich, polished palate presentation with underlying suggestions of chocolate, and a finish tinged with smoke and salt. This eminently satisfying cuvée will gain further complexity over the next several years in bottle.

Nicolas Batlle is a young winemaker of great talent - a fifth generation winemaker - who's created a new Domain of fantastic potential, composed of black schist soil and very old vines averaging 80+ years of age. Mas de Lavail is located in sunny and dry Languedoc-Roussillon, between the Mountains of the Pyrenées and Corbières. Terre d’Ardoise is the domain’s red VdP, whose vines come from the region of Fenouillèdes, north-west of Perpignan. Hand-picked from older vines, this majority Carignan based wine is soft and warm with smooth tannins. It is an open wine whose fresh hints of ripe fruit make it an ideal combination with the best cuts of meat. The Carignan’s power is balanced by the Grenache in this excellent value wine, which could be mistaken for a good Côtes-du-Rhône!


Recipes

White Blend: Bucatini with Chanterelles, Spring Peas, and Prosciutto Serves 6

Peas, bacon and pasta! Yum!

1 cup shelled fresh peas
Salt
1 pound fresh chanterelle mushrooms
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled
2 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto di Parma, chopped
Freshly ground black pepper
1-1/2 pounds ripe fresh plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and crushed, or 2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes with their liquid, seeded and crushed
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 pound bucatini
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Parboil the peas in a small saucepan of boiling salted water until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain them and set aside. Trim the tough ends and wilted spots from the mushrooms. Wipe them clean with a damp paper towel, or wash them quickly and dry them well. Slice them thin and set aside.

Bring 6 quarts of salted water to a boil in an 8-quart pot over high heat.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Whack the garlic cloves with the flat side of a knife and add them along with the prosciutto to the oil. Cook, stirring until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Stir in the mushrooms, season them lightly with salt and pepper, and cook stirring until they are lightly browned and wilted, about 7 minutes. Pour in the tomatoes, season them lightly with salt and pepper, and bring the sauce to a boil. Lower the heat so the sauce is at a lively simmer and cook 5 minutes. Stir the peas and chopped parsley into the sauce and cook until the peas are tender, about 3 minutes.

While the sauce is simmering, stir the bucatini into the boiling water. Return to a boil, stirring frequently. Cook the pasta, semi-covered, stirring occasionally, until done, about 10 minutes.

Drain the pasta, return it to the pot, and pour in about three-quarters of the sauce. Bring the sauce and pasta to a boil, tossing to coat the pasta with the sauce. Check the seasoning, adding salt and pepper if necessary. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the grated cheese. Transfer the pasta to a warm platter, top with the remaining sauce, and serve immediately.


Chardonnay:  Fish Tacos with Creamy Lime Guacamole and Cabbage Slaw Serves 5 to 6

Fish tacos bring to mind California cuisine, and a Chardonnay such as the Smoke Screen is a perfect match—rich, tangy and with good acidity, and delicious with the creamy guacamole.

2 avocados—halved, pitted and peeled
1/4 cup sour cream
1 small jalapeño, seeded and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons minced red onion
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
5 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1 small head of napa cabbage, shredded (4 cups)
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for brushing
2 pounds thick red snapper fillets with skin, cut crosswise into ten 2-inch-wide strips
Ten 7-inch flour tortillas, warmed
2 medium tomatoes, thinly sliced
Tabasco sauce, for serving
Lime wedges, for serving

Light a grill. In a medium bowl, mash the avocados, sour cream, jalapeño, red onion, cilantro and 3 tablespoons of the lime juice. Season the guacamole with salt and pepper and press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the guacamole.
In a large bowl, toss the cabbage with the 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil and the remaining 2 tablespoons of lime juice. Season with salt and pepper.
Brush the fish with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderately high heat until lightly charred and cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer the fish to a platter and pull off the skin.
To assemble each taco, spread a dollop of guacamole on a tortilla. Top with a piece of fish, a few tomato slices and a large spoonful of the cabbage slaw. Serve with the hot sauce and lime wedges.

Reds:  Grilled BLT Tuna Sandwiches Serves 6

Here is a great tuna sandwich from Laurent Tourondel, the fantastic seafood chef of the BLT Restaurant group in New York. This sandwich is inspired by the famous pan bagnat sandwich of Provence, which is made from canned tuna.

1 1/2 pounds yellowfin tuna, cut into 12 slices, about 1/3 inch thick
Sea salt and pepper
1/2 cup olive oil
4 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon chopped garlic
1 large bunch of arugula
1/2 cup mayonnaise

Tapenade:
1 cup pitted Kalamata olives
1 anchovy fillet
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/2 clove of garlic
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 loaf ciabatta, cut into 12 thick diagonal slices
12 sliced applewood smoked bacon, cooked until crisp
1 medium red onion sliced
2 ripe tomatoes
3 hard cooked eggs, peeled and sliced
6 ounces Parmesan, thinly sliced with a vegetable peeler
1 ripe avocado
1 bunch fresh basil

For the Tapenade:
Place the olives, anchovy, lemon juice, and garlic in a food processor. Process the mixture, adding the oil slowly. Blend until smooth.
Season the tuna on both sides with salt and pepper and grill for about 1 to 2 minutes per side, until rare.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the oil, lemon juice, garlic, and salt and pepper. Add the arugula and toss well.
Spread the mayonnaise and tapenade on each slice of bread. Divide the bacon, onion, tomatoes, eggs, cheese and avocado over half the slices. Top with the tuna, basil and arugula salad. Place the remaining bread slices on top. Cut the sandwiches in half and serve immediately.