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January Bargain Wines

This month we have the perfect wine for fondue, an Italian white,  another Chilean Cabernet, a Tuscan red, a Nero d'Avola from Sicily, and a Tempranillo based wine from Spain. 

First off, we have Vullien Vin de Savoie Montmélian from the French Alps - 100% Jacquère grapes raised sustainably (Lutte Raisonnée) on mainly Jurassic Limestone and black Marl soils.  While this alpine area of eastern France may be better known for skiing than viticulture, a cadre of Savoyard vignerons are producing great wines here. The region's best come from a boomerang-shaped string of six hillside crus between Grenoble and Albertville called the Combe de Savoie, where Vullien tends 69 acres in four of the six crus.This year, France's Revue du Vin selected Domaine Jean Vullien as their Coup de Coeur (Favorite) domaine in Savoie. While the Vulliens have been making wine for 36 years, the family is perhaps best known as a leader in another segment of the wine industry. Since 1890, their nursery has been supplying young vines to growers throughout France. In fact, they are responsible for 25% of the Chardonnay planted in Chablis today.

Vullien Vin de Savoie Montmélian is a crisp, lemon and mineral Jacquère-based white that British wine author Andrew Jefford calls the  Muscadet of the Alps.  Very crisp and tangy with a core of citrus/green apple/quince fruit. As good as any wine with shellfish, and a classic wine to pair with Alpine cheeses.
Our second white wine - Estrosa Monferrato Bianco from producer Pico Maccario in Piedmont (northwestern Italy) is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and the local grape Favorita. This tank fermented beauty is crisp, clean, lemony, and a perfect foil to cheeses, fish, and other lighter fare.  There’s a nice play off between the fruit and acidity that gives the wine structure and character. It has aromas of lemons and limes, a slightly floral tastes and a zingy, fresh finish that prepares you nicely for the next sip.

Our first red selection is Coltibuno Cancelli, a Tuscan red that's primarily Sangiovese, with some Syrah added for stuffing.  This is a versatile wine that will go with many foods, from pastas and fowl to roasts, stews and braises. 

Look for an intense, purplish color; spices, black pepper, cherry and floral notes in the aroma, and fresh, berry, and mineral with a velvety finish.  A perennial Best Buy from both the Wine Advocate and the Wine Spectator, here's another  wine that you should buy by the case!

I'm very bullish on the wines from San Elias in Chile.  (Last month we tried their lovely Chardonnay). This month's offering, San Elias Cabernet Sauvignon, is  100% Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from Chile's Central Valley is  smooth and fruity on the palate, the wine goes well with pasta, salads. Fresh and delicate cassis tones, a great structure.   The wine comes from younger vines - let it breathe for a spell, and then enjoy with foods from cheese to meats.....

Next up is Kyos Nero d'Avola, made from 100% Nero d’Avola grapes from 10 year old vines, hand harvested, stainless steel fermentation and aging.   Kyos is named after the Greek island Chios, chosen as the name of this wine because of the fame of their wines since mythological times, and the similarity in the Sicilian climate, lifestyle and viticultural traditions. This is a brilliant ruby red colored wine with spicy notes and a hint of small red fruits.  It has a full taste,  a long finish reminiscent of Asian spices and fresh picked cherries.  Pasta dishes, grilled meats and ripened cheeses.

Finally, there's Dacu Tempranillo, a wine I discovered on my last trip to Spain with Olé Imports.   Dacu is 100% Tempranillo from the Ribera de Guadiana DO (Extramadura) made by Olé co-owner Alberto Orte.   

Similar in style to a medium-bodied Rhône. Packed with juicy red and black berry flavors. Surprisingly weighty at this price point, it is a satisfying red that offers fresh, dark fruits and a clean, balanced finish. Very tasty.  It’s hard to believe that a wine of this caliber can be priced under $12.  89 points Parker:  "The 2008 Dacu is 100% Tempranillo aged on its lees for four months in stainless steel followed by two months in French oak. It is exceptionally fragrant with aromas of rose petals, cinnamon, cranberry, and raspberry. Plush and tasty on the palate, the finish has no hard edges. Drink this pleasure-bent offering over the next four years."

Recipes:

For the Savoie White:  Fondue
Fabulous Swiss Fondue (serves four-six) (adapted and modified from The Joy of Cooking and Epicurious.com)

1/2 lb Gruyère cheese
1/2 lb Emmenthaler cheese
1/4 lb Appenzeller cheese
1/4lb Raclette cheese

1 clove of garlic, cut lengthwise

1/4cup Kirsch (cherry brandy)
1 1/2 to 2 cups dry white wine
2 tablespoons cornstarch
juice of one lemon
pinch of nutmeg

1 to 1 1/2inch cubes of crusty French, Sourdough, or Italian bread

Fondue forks or wooden skewers
Caquelon or Fondue pot

Grate the cheese using the large holes of a box grater.
Toss the cheese in one half of the cornstarch
Rub the inside of a caquelon or heavy pot with cut sides of garlic.
Discard garlic.
Add wine and lemon juice to pot and bring to a slow simmer over low/moderate heat.
Stir together the remaining cornstarch and kirsch in a cup.
Gradually add cheese by the handful to pot, stirring constantly in a zigzag pattern to prevent cheese from balling up, until cheese is just melted and creamy.
Keep the temperature just below simmering point.
Stir cornstarch/kirsch mixture again and stir into fondue.
Bring fondue to a slow simmer and cook, stirring, until thickened, 5 to 8 minutes.

If you aren’t preparing the fondue in a caquelon, transfer to heated caquelon set over a flame.
Serve with bread for dipping.

If the fondue becomes too thick, add some of the additional kirsch.
Spear the bread cubes with fondue forks and dip them into the fondue.
For the Italian White:  Italian Seafood Stew  serves six

In this luscious, tomato-rich stew, New York chef, Marco Canora, cooks the calamari slowly until it becomes supertender. He says calamari is absolutely essential to the success of the dish, because it releases its liquid as it simmers, which adds a huge amount of flavor to the sauce. This dish pairs well with the bright, minerally flavors of this months Italian white!

* 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
* 1 fennel bulb, cored and finely chopped
* 2 celery ribs, finely chopped
* 1 white onion, finely chopped
* 1 tablespoon dried oregano (preferably Sicilian)
* Pinch of crushed red pepper
* 1 1/2 pounds cleaned squid—bodies cut into 1/2-inch rings, tentacles halved
* 2 cups dry white wine
* One 28-ounce can tomato puree
* 2 lemons—zest of one peeled in strips with a vegetable peeler, zest of the other finely grated
* Salt and freshly ground black pepper
* 2 cups water
* 1 cup bottled clam broth
* 12 ounces mussels, scrubbed
* 12 ounces littleneck clams, scrubbed
* 12 ounces shelled and deveined large shrimp
* 12 ounces skinless striped bass fillet, cut into 2-by-1-inch pieces
* 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

In a very large, enameled cast-iron casserole or Dutch oven, heat the 1/2 cup of olive oil. Add the fennel, celery, onion, oregano and crushed red pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are softened, about 15 minutes. Add the squid and cook over moderately low heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Stir in the wine and bring to a boil over moderately high heat. Cook until evaporated, about 20 minutes. Stir in the tomato puree and strips of lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper and cook over very low heat, stirring occasionally, until very thick, about 40 minutes.
Add the water and clam broth and bring to a boil. Remove and discard the lemon zest. Season the broth with salt and pepper. Add the mussels, clams and shrimp, cover and cook until most of the shells have opened, about 5 minutes. Add the striped bass and cook until opaque, about 2 minutes longer.
In a small bowl, combine the parsley with the grated lemon zest. Spoon the stew into deep bowls and sprinkle with the gremolata. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.


For the Reds:  Coffee-Marinated Bison Short Ribs  serves six
Here is a great short rib recipe from Bruce Aidells. The rich, sweet and spicy flavors of the marinade really make this dish. Keep this recipe in mind for Super Bowl Sunday!

MARINADE

* 4 cups water
* 3 cups chilled strong brewed coffee
* 1/2 cup coarse kosher salt
* 3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (packed) dark brown sugar
* 1/4 cup pure maple syrup
* 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
* 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
* 2 cups ice cubes
* 4 pounds bison (often labeled buffalo) short ribs, cut between ribs to separate


SHORT RIBS

* 1/4 cup chopped bacon (about 1 1/2 ounces)
* 2 cups chopped onions
* 1/2 cup chopped shallots
* 6 garlic cloves, chopped
* 1 small jalapeño chile, seeded, chopped
* 1 cup strong brewed coffee
* 1 cup low-salt chicken broth
* 1/4 cup chili sauce (such as Heinz) or ketchup
* 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
* 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
* 1 tablespoon soy sauce


PREPARATION

Stir 4 cups water, coffee, 1/2 cup coarse salt, and sugar in large bowl until salt and sugar dissolve. Add syrup and next 3 ingredients; stir until ice melts. Add ribs. Place plate atop ribs to keep submerged. Cover and chill 4 to 6 hours. Drain ribs; discard marinade. DO AHEAD: Drained ribs can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Preheat oven to 325°F. Sauté bacon in heavy large wide ovenproof pot over medium heat until beginning to brown. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to plate. Increase heat to medium-high. Sprinkle ribs with salt and pepper. Working in batches, cook ribs until browned on all sides, about 7 minutes per batch. Transfer to large plate. Add onions, shallots, garlic, and jalapeño to pot. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook until vegetables are soft, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add coffee and broth; stir, scraping up browned bits. Add chili sauce and all remaining ingredients; bring to boil. Add bacon and ribs, cover, and transfer to oven. Braise until meat is tender, about 2 hours 15 minutes. DO AHEAD Can be made 2 days ahead. Cool slightly. Chill uncovered until cold, then cover and keep chilled. Rewarm in 325°F oven until heated through, about 20 minutes, before continuing.
Transfer ribs to plate; tent with foil to keep warm. Spoon fat from surface of sauce. Boil sauce until reduced to 2 cups, about 5 minutes. Pour sauce over ribs.

For the Bargain Red:  Baked Polenta with Sausage   serves 6-8
My friend, and very talented Italian chef, Luke Palladino calls this dish (which he used to serve in his restaurants at the Borgata Casino in Atlantic City) “pasticciata,” which means “a big mess” in Italian and usually refers to dishes in which the ingredients are mixed together and baked in a casserole. The best polenta, a speciality of the Veneto region, is stone ground (rather than milled with steel rollers), which has a coarse texture and more corn taste.


Polenta:

* 9 cups water
* 2 teaspoons coarse salt
* 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
* 3 cups stone-ground yellow cornmeal
* 3/4 cup grated Parmesan
* 1 tablespoon butter
* Coarse salt and ground black pepper


Sausage Mix Ingredients:

*

2 tbsp unsalted butter
* 4 cloves garlic, chopped
12 sage leaves
2 lbs Italian sausage, removed from casing
1 cup milk
Coarse salt and ground black pepper


* 1 cup (8 oz) Gorgonzola dolce, rind removed and crumbled into large pieces
* 1/3 cup grated Parmesan


For the Polenta: Bring water to a boil in large heavy pot. Add salt and olive oil and reduce heat until water is simmering. Rain down the cornmeal over simmering water, adding it very slowly to control flow and whisking constantly to prevent lumps. (If necessary, stop adding cornmeal from time to time and beat mixture vigorously.) Set burner at lowest setting, cover pot, and cook, removing lid to stir every 10 minutes. The polenta will become very thick. After 30 minutes, stir in Parmesan and butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Remove pot from heat and store covered, keeping it warm until ready to use.

For the Sausage: In a large sauté pan over moderate heat, melt the butter until foamy. Sauté garlic and sage leaves until lightly golden. Add sausage and stir with a wooden spoon, mashing any chunks, and cook until pork loses pink color and edges are slightly brown. Add milk, cover with lid, and braise (at the lowest setting of your burner) until very little liquid remains under the sausage, about 20 to 25 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly butter a large (8 quart) casserole or (12 inch) skillet. Pour polenta into buttered casserole, spooning sausage on top. Evenly distribute Gorgonzola and sprinkle Parmesan over all. Bake uncovered until bubbly and golden brown, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven and let rest 10 minutes before serving.