Bargain Wine Club
Bargain Club - November '09
First off is Marcato Lessini Durello Brut, a sparkling wine from the Veneto . Straw yellow color. Complex citrus, acacia and honey aromas. Medium palate with light exotic fruit flavors, a good balance and a mineral acidity. Mostly Durella, with some Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Attractive pale gold color. Moussy and slightly yeasty nose. Medium bodied with good apple, orange blossom, and lemon flavors captured inside a fairly focused effort. Pleasant finish that's long without wearing out its welcome. The Marcato family is one of only 5 producers left producing Durello.
Durello is an excellent choice for fish, seafood, oysters, and vegetable dishes. Unlike many Proseccos, this wine is dry and offers excellent citrus and mineral characteristics.
Also from the same producer is Marcato Soave Doc Colli Scaligeri, also from the Veneto. Mostly Garganega, with some Trebbiano di Soave and Chardonnay. The grapes were manually harvested and crushed and pressed under a blanket of CO2. A temperature controlled stainless fermentation was followed by a 3 months on lees. Pale straw yellow. the wine displays fragrant and elegant notes of white flowers and white fruits, and green apple and minerally notes on a dry but soft palate of medium persistence. Starters based on white fish, as well as light tapas dishes, pasta primavera, white pizza, or on its own as an aperitif.
Sant'Agata Barbera Asti, Baby Called Baby because it's made to drink fresh and young and comes straight from the grape without any oak, this is a benchmark expression of Barbera. Inky dark blackish-purple in color and ripe in aroma, it breathes sweet red cherries and spice. Raspberry jam on the nose, with hints of fresh herbs. Medium bodies, with a fresh lemony, fruity character and a light finish.
Juicy tart-cherry fruit and a lemon-squirt of acidity make for a fresh, mouth-watering flavor that goes very well with food. Try it with Thanksgiving turkey, it's also a stellar match with something more downscale: old-fashioned beef-and-pork meatloaf loaded with onions and bell peppers.
Next up is a store favorite - Vinum Cellars PETS Petite Syrah. A tasty concoction of ripe blackberry, boysenberry and cassis flavors that are ripe and juicy, with thick tannins, wonderful spicy notes and a hint of fresh cracked black pepper. Petite Sirah goes by many names. In addition to its true identity as the French grape Durif, I’ve heard it referred to it as “Petty Sarah” and “Pets,” which is where this wine gets its name. In a nod to this alias, a portion of the sales of the Vinum PETS goes to an animal shelter fund. Single Vineyard, Clarksburg CA (Yolo County)
Then there's Erta e China Rosso di Toscana from Renzo Masi. This Tuscan red demonstrates the flexibility of the IGT regulations with a non-traditional blend of half Sangiovese, half Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 14 months in a combination of French and American oak. Inky dark garnet, almost black, it shows bright reddish-purple glints against the light. Aromatic, dark fruits, dried cherries and spice, more fruit than oak despite its long stay in wood. Juicy, snappy fruit flavors follow the nose, black fruit and lemony acidity; clean and lingering, with a whiff of fennel in the finish. Impressive wine, somewhat in the international style.
Viños de Terruño Siete 7 From an organic vineyard in Spain's Navarra region, this blend of 80 percent Garnacha and 20 percent Tempranillo is ripe for the picking—purple in color, redolent of blueberries, blackberries, and black cherries, but balanced in a way that only old-vine wines can be. A streak of lively acid makes it a great food wine, but it drinks well any time. Ripe and full-bodied, it has nicely integrated tannin and excellent length. A steal!
Recipes: Thanksgiving Dinner!
Chef Andy has thoughtfully put together a Thanksgiving Dinner for this month's Bargain Wine Club!
Chestnut, Celery Root, and Apple Soup
Here is a first course for the Thanksgiving meal, rich, creamy and intensely satisfying. Perfect to start with the Bargain whites.
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 medium onion, peeled, trimmed, and thinly sliced
- 1 medium leek, white part only, thinly sliced, washed,and dried
- 2 McIntosh apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
- 10 ounces celery root, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 sprig thyme
- Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
- Salt and freshly ground white pepper
- 3/4 pound peeled fresh chestnuts (from about 1 1/4 pounds chestnuts in the shell) or dry-packed bottled
- or vacuum-sealed peeled chestnuts
- 2 quarts unsalted chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium chicken broth
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
Heat the oil in a stockpot or large casserole over medium heat. Add the onion, leek, apples, celery root, bay leaf, thyme, nutmeg, salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until the onions and leeks are soft but not colored. Add the chestnuts and chicken stock and bring to the boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, skimming the surface regularly, 35 to 40 minutes, or until the chestnuts can be mashed easily with a fork. Add the heavy cream and simmer 5 to 10 minutes more, then discard the bay leaf and thyme.
Purée the soup until smooth using a blender, food processor or hand-held immersion blender, then pass it through a fine-mesh strainer. At this point, you should have about 2 quarts of soup. If you have more, or if you think the soup is too thin--the soup should have the consistency of a veloute or light cream soup--simmer it over medium heat until thickened. Taste and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning. (The soup can be cooled completely and stored in a covered jar in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days or frozen for up to a month. Bring the soup back to a boil before serving.)
Thanksgiving Turkey with Sausage, Mushroom and Brioche Stuffing Serves 6-8
* One 10 to 12 pound turkey
* 2 gallons plus 1 quart water
* 2 cups kosher salt
* 1 cup sugar
* 1 onion, skin removed and quartered
* 1/2 bunch fresh sage
* 2 lemons, quartered
* 1 pound unsalted butter
* 1 cup high quality maple syrup
* 1 pound fresh pork sausage, picked into 1/2 inch pieces
* Giblets from turkey
* 1 onion, 1/2 inch dice
* 4 celery stalks, 1/2 inch dice
* 2 garlic cloves, minced
* 1 pound mixed mushrooms, chopped
* 2 tablespoons sage, chopped
* 1 bunch parsley, chopped
* 4 sprigs thyme leaves, chopped
* ½ pound unsalted butter
* 4 cups turkey or chicken stock, or low sodium broth
* 4 cups heavy cream
* 1 ½ cups dried cranberries
* 1/2 cup toasted pecans, chopped
* 2 pounds brioche, preferably 2 days old, 1 inch cubes
* salt and pepper
Brining:
Whisk the water with the salt and sugar until they are dissolved. Transfer to a plastic bag or container large enough to hold the turkey, Remove the innards from the turkey, reserving only the giblets, and submerge the turkey in the brine. If you are using a bag, place the bag in a large container, pour in the brine, add the turkey, and then remove any air pockets before sealing the bag shut. Refrigerate for 8 to 10 hours. Remove the turkey from the brine, and pat dry with paper towels. Rest the turkey in the refrigerator, uncovered for about 5 hours or overnight.
Turkey:
Remove the turkey from the refrigerator about one hour prior to roasting. Fill the cavity with quartered onions, lemons and sage. Heat oven to 375 F. Melt the butter over low heat and add the maple syrup, keep warm for basting. Place a cooking rack in a large baking dish and pour in enough chicken stock to come 2 inches up the sides of the pan. Cut wings of turkey, place on rack and seat turkey on top of wings. Place in oven and set timer for 20 minutes. When timer goes off baste turkey with melted butter and syrup mixture, and rotate the turkey in the oven. Repeat this process two more times. After the third time (1 hour), lower heat to 325 F, baste and return to oven basting every twenty minutes for the next 2 hours. By now the turkey will have been roasting for 3 hrs and have a nice golden color. Use a meat thermometer to test for doneness. Once the turkey is cooked to 155F in the deepest part of the inner thigh, remove from the oven and allow the bird to rest for 30 minutes before carving.
Stuffing:
In a large pot or Dutch oven over medium low heat, add the pork sausage and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the chopped giblets, onion, celery, garlic, mushrooms, cranberries and pecans and continue to cook on medium low heat, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 more minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Add the chicken stock and heavy cream and bring to a simmer. Add the brioche cubes, turn off the heat, stir gently and allow to sit for 30 minutes to develop the flavors-add more brioche if necessary. Check seasoning and remove and bake in the . Stir in the fresh herbs. Place in a baking pan, cover with foil and set inside a larger pan. Fill the larger pan with water halfway up sides and bake in a 325F oven for about 1 1/2 hours or until fully cooked and set. Remove from oven and keep warm. Warm in a low oven before serving.
Ruby Port Cranberry Sauce
* 1 1/2 cups ruby Port
* 3/4 cup sugar
* 3 cloves
* 1/2 stick cinnamon
* 3 allspice berries
* 4 black peppercorns
* 2-inch-by- 1/2 -inch strip of orange peel
* 12 ounces cranberries
In a medium saucepan, combine the Port and sugar. Tie the cloves, cinnamon stick, allspice and black peppercorns in a small piece of cheesecloth. Add the spice bundle to the saucepan. Add the orange peel. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer gently until the wine is reduced to 1 cup, about 4 minutes.
Add the cranberries to the wine. Return to a simmer over medium-high heat then lower the heat and simmer until the cranberries pop, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour into a bowl. Let cool to room temperature,then remove the spice bundle and orange peel. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Brussels Sprouts with Bacon, Dried Cranberries and Mustard
* 1/4 pound apple smoked bacon, cut into thin strips
* 2 pounds Brussels sprouts, cleaned and quartered
* 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch dice
* 1/2 cup dried cranberries
* 2 cups chicken stock
* 1/2 cup cider vinegar
* 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
* 1/4 teaspoon chopped thyme
* 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
* salt and pepper
* Parmesan for grating
In a large, deep skillet, cook the bacon over moderately high heat until browned, about 8 minutes, removed form the pan and add the Brussels sprouts.Cook the sprouts for about 3- 4 minutes until slightly softened and a little charred and brown. Add back the bacon, apples and dried cranberries, and cook a further 2 minutes, before adding the chicken stock and vinegar. Cook the mixture for about 10 minutes until the sprouts are tender and the liquid has reduced to about 1/2 cup (if the liquid reduces to almost nothing before the sprouts are fully cooked, just add more stock and continue cooking). Add the mustard and cook until the liquid begins to thicken and you have a smooth sauce. Finally, add the thyme and butter and shake the pan, swirling the butter into the sauce until completely smooth. Check the seasoning, and serve with some coarsely grated Parmesan on top.
Potato Gratin Forestière
Here is a great potato gratin recipe from Daniel Boulud.
* 1 pound assorted wild mushrooms, separated by variety, cleaned, trimmed and sliced
* 2 tablespoons (approximately) unsalted butter, divided
* Salt
* Freshly ground white pepper
* 2 cloves garlic, peeled, split, germ removed, finely chopped
* 1/4 teaspoon finely chopped thyme leaves
* 3 cups heavy cream
* 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
* 4 pounds Idaho or other russet potatoes
* 1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
In a medium saute pan or skillet over medium heat, saute each variety of mushroom in just enough butter to keep the mushrooms from sticking. Season each batch with about one-eighth teaspoon salt and a pinch of white pepper and cook, stirring, just until the mushrooms are tender but not colored, a few minutes for each batch. When one type of mushroom is cooked, drain, turn it into a large bowl and repeat with the next type. You need to saute the mushrooms separately because each type has a different cooking time.
Mix the cooked mushrooms together in the bowl. Stir in the garlic and thyme and set aside at room temperature until needed. (The mushrooms can be sauteed up to 2 hours ahead and kept covered with plastic wrap at room temperature.)
Place a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 10-inch baking dish.
Pour the cream into a large bowl and whisk in 2 1/2 teaspoons salt, one-half teaspoon white pepper and the nutmeg. (Add more salt than you might normally add because the potatoes will need it.)
Peel the potatoes and slice them into one-eighth-inch thick rounds using a mandoline, the thinnest slicing blade on the food processor or a knife. Toss the potatoes into the cream as you slice them.
Using your hands, remove enough potato slices from the cream to make a single layer on the bottom of the pan, arranging the slices in even, overlapping concentric circles. Make a second layer of potato slices and then pour some cream over the layers. Press down on the potatoes to compact the layers -- when you do this, some of the cream should rise up between the slices.
Spread the mushrooms (minus whatever liquid may have accumulated in the bowl) over the potatoes and pour in more cream, again using your hands to press down on the ingredients and bring the cream to the top. Arrange the remaining potatoes in layers over the mushrooms, pouring in cream and pressing down as you finish each layer. You may not need all of the cream; you've added enough when, without pressing down, you see cream at the edges.
Dust the gratin evenly with the Parmesan cheese and place the gratin on a foil-lined baking sheet.
Bake the gratin 45 minutes, then check that it's not getting too brown. If necessary, lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees to keep the gratin from coloring too much. Bake an additional 30 minutes or until you can easily pass a slender knife through the layers.
Remove the gratin from the oven and keep it warm about 20 minutes to allow the potatoes to soak up more cream. To serve, cut into wedges.
Swiss Chard Gratin
* 6 pounds Swiss chard
* 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
* 1/4 cup minced onion
* 1 tablespoon olive oil
* 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
* 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
* 1/8 teaspoon ground clove
* 3 tablespoons butter
* 3 tablespoons flour
* 2 1/2 cups warm milk
* 1/2 cup shredded Gruyere cheese
* 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
* Salt and pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 375°F.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and place a bowl of ice water on the side.
Separate the Swiss chard leaves from the stems, and reserve half of the stems; rinse well. Boil the Swiss chard leaves until tender, remove with a slotted spoon, and chill in the ice water. Strain well by wrapping with cheesecloth and squeezing out the liquid; then chop roughly. Cut the reserved half of the stems into thin slices.
In a large saucepan over medium-low heat, add the olive oil, garlic, onion, Swiss chard stems, and one teaspoon of Thanksgiving Spice Blend and cook, stirring, until tender. Stir in the cooked leaves to combine.
In a separate small pot on medium-low heat, add the butter, flour and spices. Cook, stirring with a whisk for 2-3 minutes, being careful not to brown the butter. Gradually whisk in the warm milk. Continue to cook, whisking, for 3 minutes to make a béchamel.
Transfer the béchamel into the pot with the Swiss chard, and stir to combine, Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a small casserole dish.
Sprinkle evenly with the cheeses and remaining teaspoon of Thanksgiving spice and bake 8-10 minutes, or until golden brown.
White Chocolate and Pumpkin Cheesecake makes 3 cheesecakes
Crust:
* 1 3/4 cups graham cracker crumbs
* 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
* 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
* 1/4 teaspoon cocoa powder
* 2 tablespoons brown sugar
* salt
Pumpkin Batter:
* 24 ounces cream cheese, softened
* 1 cup sugar
* 1 ½ cups heavy cream
* 1 cup crème fraiche2 eggs
* 2 egg yolks
* 4 teaspoons lemon juice
* 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
* 2 ½ cups pumpkin puree, fresh or canned
* ½ cup light brown sugar, sieved
* 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
* 1 teaspoon ground ginger
* 1 teaspoon ground cloves
White Chocolate Batter:
* 9 ounces white chocolate
* 24 ounces cream cheese, softened
* ¾ cup sugar
* ¼ teaspoon salt
* 2 eggs
* 2 egg yolks
* 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Preheat the oven to 350F
For the Crust:
In a medium bowl, mix the graham cracker crumbs with the melted butter, cinnamon, cocoa powder, brown sugar and a pinch of salt. Press the crumbs over the bottom and 1 inch up the side of a the spring-form pans.
For the Pumpkin Batter:
Beat the cream cheese and sugar on medium high until very smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl constantly. Slowly, add the heavy cream, crème fraiche, eggs, lemon juice and vanilla and mix until well blended. Stir in the pumpkin, brown sugar and spices and mix until blended. Set aside.
For the White Chocolate Batter:
Melt the chocolate over simmering water until completely melted and smooth. Beat the cream cheese, salt and sugar until very smooth, constantly scraping down the sides of the bowl. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well and add the vanilla and melted chocolate and stir to combine.
Fill prepared pans two-thirds full with pumpkin batter, fill the remainder with the white chocolate batter. Set the spring-form pans in a large roasting pan. Add enough hot water to the roasting pan to reach halfway up the side of the spring-form pans. Bake the cheesecakes in the hot water bath in the center of the oven for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours, constantly lowering the temperature 25 degrees each 15 minutes until the cheesecakes have a slight wobble in the center. Turn off the oven and leave the cheesecakes in there for 30 minutes to 1 hour until set.
Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or the next day before serving.

