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Sept. '09 Bargain

First off, we present  Tabali Sauvignon Blanc, from the cool climate Limari Valley in Chile.  This SB has got it all -  explosive passion fruit and citrus notes and a minerally core that makes it a perfect match at mealtime.   Parker gave last year's vintage 90 points, and raved "...a great value... mouth-watering, vibrant, lengthy Sauvignon that way over-delivers for its humble price."  Limari is one of the newest wine producing regions in the very north of Chile, close to the desert but close also to the cooling Pacific Ocean. I loved the intense, green herbaceous flavors and long grapefruity finish.

We've carried wines from Coussergues for a while (check out their Cabernet Franc!), so I was pleased to try their Domaine de Coussergues Chardonnay-Viognier blend.  This is a 50/50 blend has the floral and fruity aromas of peach and apricot fromthe Viognier, and a fresh, crisp and round mouthfeel.  Pear and tropical fruit flavors, soft texture and refreshing acidity. Excellent with chicken, salad, cheeses.  A nice patio wine! 

Robert Parker gave it 90 points! " My favorite from this winery...medium-bodied, dry, fresh, lively....Exotic tropical fruit, honeysuckle, and floral undertones offer a lovely aromatic display."      Due to overwhelming national response on this juice, we only have a limited amount available.

Then, we've got four absolutely great red wines for you - two from acclaimed winemaker Chris Ringland, one from the folks at Owen Roe, and a kick a** Rhône from  Vieux Clocher!

Despite his whimsical, somewhat twisted sense of humor, and laughable packaging, Evil Cabernet and Bitch Grenache from Chris Ringland are serious wines, deserving a place as a go to wine.  Chris makes wines on two continents - rich super scoring Spanish wines for Jorge Ordoñez (Clio, El Nido, Aquilon, Alto Moncayo, etc.), and rich, high scoring wines in his native Australia (Chris Ringland Shiraz, and others.  Parker has given Chris 100 points several times for his high end wines.

Evil Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Langhorne Creek, Riverland, Barossa Valley. 25% aged in French oak for 12 months. Dark rich red, with bright crimson hues. Fresh, yet rich classic varietal nose, consisting of black olive, fresh blackberries and raspberries. The soft palate displays complexity of fruit and oak, with blackcurrant and spicy clove characters, balanced with a fine tannin finish.

Bitch Grenache Bitch, a provocatively named 100% Grenache from R Wines, achieves the potential of this difficult-to-grow grape. Winemakers Chris Ringland and Lisa Wetherell use fruit from the Barossa Valley in South Australia. Yields from the 25-year-old vines grown in sand over clay are modest, 3 to 5 tons an acre. Ripe quince and lifted spice with a rich juicy concentration, along with intensely perfumed characters come from the sandy loam soil, and dark berry characters from the heavier red-brown soils. Ostensibly named after Ringland's ex-wife.  Parker listed this as a Value Red for $20 and Under!

Corvidae is a new brand for Owen Roe (one of Farmstead's favorite wineries!), and represents value tiered wines.  Corvidae is the Latin name for the family of birds that includes crows and ravens. Crows have a long history in folklore and mythology. Each Corvidae wine is named with a particular fairy tale, fable, or legend in mind. "Rook" references the legendary luck associated with crows. 

Corvidae is a new brand for Owen Roe (one of Farmstead's favorite wineries!), and represents value tiered wines.  Corvidae is the Latin name for the family of birds that includes crows and ravens. Crows have a long history in folklore and mythology. Each Corvidae wine is named with a particular fairy tale, fable, or legend in mind. "Rook" references the legendary luck associated with crows.

Corvidae Rook is a CSM (Cabernet, Syrah, and Merlot blend), common in Northwest wines.  

The Cabernet Sauvignon is from the acclaimed Seven Hills Vineyard in Walla Walla. Here the fruit contributes texture and riper flavors to the blend. On the far west end of Yakima Valley the Merlot is grown by Mike Sauer of Red Willow Vineyard. The Syrah is grown in the Horse Heaven Hills where the temperatures are moderated by close proximity to the Columbia River.  Enjoy this very affordable, lush blend with any rustic meaty fare or tomato-based pasta dishes.

Finally, we present Maison Arnoux Vieux Clocher Ventoux from vineyards on the slopes of Mount Ventoux, a Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault blend.   The wine is from the phenomenal 2007 vintage and is well-balanced, fruity, with a long, satisfying finish. 

Recipes: (from Andy Carthy)
For the Sauvignon Blanc Grilled Tomato and Basil Tart Serves 4-6

Rich to the point of sin; the sort of thing I like to eat when slightly depressed by colder weather and earlier sunsets. No need to roll the pastry here just press it into a baking tin, as roughly as you like. Use cherry or quartered plum tomatoes that are as ripe as possible. Don’t worry if they collapse when cooked – the look you are aiming for is a sumptuous mess. A perfect send off, with a glass or two of the Tabali Sauvignon Blanc to summer and the tomato season!

* 8 ounces plain white flour
* 4 ounces butter, cold from the fridge
* 1 egg yolk
* 1 ¼ pounds cherry or plum tomatoes
* 1-heaped tablespoon of butter
* 8 basil leaves, torn into strips
* ½ pound crème fraîche

Preheat the oven to 375F.

To make the pastry, put the flour with a pinch of salt on the work surface, grate the butter over it and mix lightly. Make a well in the centre; add the egg yolk and one tablespoon of cold water and mix to form rough dough. You may need to add a second tablespoon of water.

Put the dough on a baking sheet and use your hand or a jam jar to flatten it to about ¼ “ thick and into a rectangular shape. Tidy the edges of the pastry with a knife. Cover with a sheet of baking paper and weigh it down with a few dried beans.

Bake until light brown. Take off the paper and beans and set aside.

Meanwhile sauté the tomatoes in the butter on a medium heat. Add the basil leaves then spread them over the surface of the pastry. Add large blobs of crème fraîche, then bake the dish again for about five minutes, until the crème begins to bubble. Serve carved into squares. The pastry will be quite fragile – but the nicer for it.

For the Chard-Viognier  Salmon and Corn Chowder with Zucchini Serves 4

This quick and easy Indian summer soup recipe will pair perfectly with the Chardonnay/Viognier blend from Domaine Coussergues.

* ¼ lb bacon, cut into thin strips
* 1 onion, finely chopped
* 1 ¼ pounds Idaho potatoes, cut into ½ inch cubes
* 3 cups chicken stock, or low sodium chicken broth
* 1 ¾ teaspoons salt
* 4 cups fresh corn kernels
* 1-pound skinless wild salmon fillets cut into 1inch pieces
* 2 cups zucchini cut into ½ inch cubes
* 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
* ¾ cup half and half
* 2 tablespoons chopped chives

In a large pot, cook the bacon until almost crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the pot. Add the onion and cook over moderately low heat until translucent.

Add the potatoes, stock, bacon and ½ teaspoon of the salt to the pot and simmer for about 10 minutes. While this is happening, reserve one cup of the corn and add the remaining three cups to the half and half and place in a medium size pot and bring to a simmer. Cook fro 10 minutes or longer until the kernels are tender. Carefully remove the cooked corn and half and half to a blender and puree until smooth. Add to the large pot with the reserved one-cup of corn and the zucchini and cook for about 10 minutes until the potatoes are tender.

Add the salmon, remaining salt and pepper and bring back just to a simmer and cook for about 1-2 minutes until the fish is just cooked through.

Adjust the consistency with more half and half if needed. Divide among 4 large soup bowls and garnish with the chopped chives.

For the French Grenache Blend Grilled Pork Chops with Pears, Stilton and Parsnip Mash Serves 4

Free Range Pork is more meaty, juicy and flavorful than conventional pork, and generally does not require brining to help retain moisture. Available from most specialty butchers, food markets and online from quality purveyors such as Niman Ranch. You can substitute the Stilton for any blue cheese you prefer.

* 4 one and a half inch thick free range pork chops
* 1 pinch black pepper
* 1 dash of olive oil
* 2 pears ripe, peeled, quartered and sliced
* 1/2 pound of Stilton, crumbled
* For the parsnip mash:
* 2 pounds of parsnips
* 1 pinch black pepper
* 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
* 2 teaspoons wholegrain mustard
* 1 tablespoon hazelnut oil

Peel and roughly chop the parsnips and place in a pan of salted water and bring to the boil. Cook until tender (about 20 minutes), and then drain.

Return the parsnips to the pan and allow the steam to evaporate for a minute before mashing with the butter, salt and freshly ground pepper, wholegrain mustard and hazelnut oil.
Light a grill and create a cool zone. (For a charcoal grill, rake the coals to one side; for a gas grill, leave one side unlit.)

Brush the pork chops generously with olive oil and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Grill over moderately high heat for 4 minutes, turning the chops once or twice until lightly browned. Transfer the chops to the cool zone, cover and grill for about 10 minutes. Top each of the chops with a few slices of pear and some crumbled Stilton cheese and cook a further 5 minutes until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the chops registers 135° for medium meat. Let the chops rest for 5- 10 minutes before serving.

Spoon the parsnip mash unto the center of 4 large dinner plates and place the pork chops on top.

For the Australian Grenache  Duck Breasts with Fig Mostarda and Endives Serves 4

This duck recipe will work beautifully with the ripe dark berry fruits of the Bitch Grenache. You can substitute dried figs for the fresh but I would suggest soaking them in the wine for at least 4 hours prior to cooking and you will possibly need to increase the cooking time by at least 15-20 minutes. You can also use this mostarda as a terrific condiment with cheese!

* 1 cup red wine
* 1 cup sugar
* 1 large bay leaf
* 1/2 cinnamon stick
* 8 ripe figs, quartered
* 1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
* 1 1/2 tablespoons dry mustard
* Salt and pepper
* Two 12 ounce duck breasts
* Olive Oil
* 2 large endives, quartered lengthwise

In a large saucepan, combine the wine, sugar, cinnamon stick and bay leaf and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil until syrupy, about 5 minutes. Add the figs and cook until they begin to break down, about 5 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar with the mustard, then whisk the mixture into the figs. Remove the bay leaf and cinnamon stick, and season with salt and pepper. You can make the mostarda up to a week ahead.

Meanwhile, heat a large, heavy skillet until very hot. Lightly rub the duck skin with vegetable oil and add the breasts to the skillet, skin side down. Cook over moderately low heat until the skin is golden and crisp, about 15 minutes. As the fat renders, spoon it into a heatproof bowl. Season the duck breasts with salt and pepper, turn them and cook over moderately low heat until browned on the bottom, about 8 minutes. Transfer the duck to a plate and keep warm.

Add 2 tablespoons of the reserved duck fat to the skillet and heat until shimmering. Add the quartered endives, season with salt and pepper and cook over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until softened and golden, about 6 minutes. Slice the duck breasts and transfer to plates. Serve the duck with the quartered endives and fig mostarda.

For the Washington Cab blend  Pancetta Wrapped Quail with Figs, Polenta and Balsamic Reduction Serves 4

This mouthwatering quail dish with a rich balsamic sauce and soft rib sticking polenta will need a rich, lush, full flavored red such as the Corvidae Rook to compliment it.

* 1 tbsp grain mustard
* 1 tbsp honey
* 4 large free-range quail, ready-boned and spatchcocked
* 4 small black figs, topped and tailed
* 1-2 tbsp rosemary, sage and thyme, finely chopped
* 16 thin slices pancetta
* 3 tbsp olive oil

For the polenta:
* 3 cups water
* 1 cup whole milk
* 1 1/2 tsp salt
* 1 1/2 cups polenta

For the sauce:
* 2 shallots, finely chopped
* 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
* 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
* 1 cup chicken stock, preferably home-made
* 1 tablespoon cold butter
* Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the Oven to 350F.

Combine the mustard and honey in a small bowl. Open out the quails with the breast side down and brush a thin layer of the honey and mustard mixture over the surface. Place a fig in the centre of each quail. Wrap the quail legs and breast around the fig tightly so it is completely covered. Sprinkle the quail with the herb mixture. Wrap each quail in four slices of pancetta, covering as much of the quail as possible. Set aside while you make the polenta.

To make the polenta, bring the water, milk and salt to the boil in a large saucepan, then turn the heat down to a medium simmer. Using a long-handled wooden spoon (the polenta will spit as it boils) stir with one hand and use the other to add the polenta in a steady stream, a fistful at a time. Keep stirring and adding polenta, making sure each fistful is absorbed before adding the next. Keep stirring vigorously and frequently for 15-20 minutes until the polenta comes away from the sides of the pan. To serve wet, spoon it into a serving dish and keep warm. Otherwise, pour it onto a board, level with a wet palette knife and leave to cool and firm before frying or grilling.

Finish the quail while the polenta is cooking. Heat the olive oil in a large heavy-based oven-proof frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the quail and sear on all sides.

Put the pan in the preheated oven and roast the quail for 10 minutes. Remove from the pan and keep warm.

To make the sauce, skim the fat from the pan used for the quail. Add the shallots and garlic and gently fry over medium heat for 1-2 minutes.

Stir in the balsamic vinegar and let it reduce until syrupy. Add the chicken stock and bring to the boil. Simmer until slightly reduced, then whisk in the butter to create a glossy emulsified sauce.

Spoon the polenta onto the center of 4 warm dinner plates. Lay the quail on top of the polenta, and spoon the balsamic reduction over and around the quail.

For the Australian Cabernet Oven Roasted Lamb Salad Serves 6

Roasted lamb top round, a tender and flavorful cut from the leg, is the centerpiece of this composed salad of earthy mushrooms, crisp potatoes, and a garlicky vinaigrette. Be sure to slice the meat against the grain after roasting for the juiciest results. Enjoy with the Evil Cabernet!

* 1 head garlic
* 2 tbsp. canola oil
* 2 tbsp. sherry vinegar
* 2 tbsp. salt-packed capers, rinsed, drained, and finely chopped
* 2 tbsp. minced shallots
* 10 oil-packed anchovy filets, drained and finely chopped
* 12 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
* Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
* 1  1 1⁄2-lb. lamb top round, trimmed
* 6 small red new potatoes (about 1⁄2 lb.), cut into wedges
* 1 tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary
* 1⁄4 lb. mushrooms, such as oyster or shiitake, stemmed and torn
* 1 tbsp. unsalted butter
* 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
* 9 cups loosely packed mixed greens, such as frisée and arugula (about 5 oz.)
* 1⁄2 cup loosely packed mixed flat-leaf parsley and mint leaves
* 2 tbsp. chopped toasted pistachios

Heat oven to 400˚. Cut 1⁄4" off top of garlic head. Rub garlic with 1 tbsp. canola oil; wrap in foil and transfer to oven. Cook garlic until soft, about 1 hour; set aside to let cool. Squeeze the garlic cloves from their skin and finely chop them into a smooth paste; transfer garlic to a medium bowl along with the vinegar, capers, 1 tbsp. shallots, and anchovies. Slowly whisk in 8 tbsp. olive oil and season with salt and pepper; set vinaigrette aside.

Season the lamb generously all over with salt and pepper. Heat the remaining canola oil in a 10" cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the lamb and cook until meat is browned on all sides, about 12 minutes. Transfer skillet to the oven and cook lamb until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat registers 130˚, 10–15 minutes. Transfer the lamb to a plate, cover loosely with foil, and let rest for 30 minutes. (Lamb will continue cooking to medium rare as it rests.)

Increase the oven heat to 475˚. In a medium bowl, toss the potatoes with 2 tbsp. of the olive oil and the rosemary; season with salt and pepper. Transfer the potatoes to a rimmed sheet pan and cook, flipping occasionally, until golden brown and tender, about 20 minutes. Set the potatoes aside.

Heat the remaining olive oil in an 8" skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, flipping them once, until browned and crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining shallots, butter, and thyme and cook, stirring frequently, until the flavors meld, about 1 minute more. Set mushrooms aside on a plate.

Put the mixed greens and the herbs into a large bowl. Whisk the vinaigrette and drizzle most of it over the greens. Toss the greens and season them with salt and pepper; transfer the greens to 4–6 plates and divide reserved potatoes and mushrooms between them. Thinly slice lamb against the grain and divide between the plates. Sprinkle remaining vinaigrette over salads and garnish with pistachios.