This month, we're featuring two Italian wines from the Quatro Mani
project, Honker Blanc Sauvignon Blanc from Piedmont and Alameda's John
Tudal, Sorin Rosé, Coussergues Cabernet Franc and Altano Douro Red.
Quattro Mani,
or "four hands", is a project of four celebrity winemakers, each
expressing the character and strength of indigenous grape varieties,
interpreted through their unique personalities. The winemakers of
Quattro Mani have a unique ability in allowing the vineyard to speak
through the wine, while personally interpreting the grape variety
during vinification. The choice to use only native varieties reflects
our belief that the essence of a region can be best expressed through
traditional varieties placed in the hands of skilled artisan
winemakers. Quattro Mani wines are always produced from estate grown
fruit grown using sustainable agriculture and are bottled at the source.
Quattro Mani [Toh-Kai] is a single vineyard Furlanski Tokaj (Tocai
Friulano) from the Brdo region of Slovenia made by Ale Kristancic.
This biodynamic and organically farmed, medium bodied white wine is
floral and fresh with rich melony fruit flavors and a brisk, elegant
finish. Kristancic is a larger than life personality; there's a great
article about him in the April 2009 Food and Wine. (My favorite quote from the article: I need critics! I dont need this wow-brow shiki-miki zak-zak! Roughly 
translated,
that means, Hey, I need actual critics, not a bunch of useless hipster
yes-men. Importer Domaine Select loved Ales Kristancics Tocai so
much, that when he stopped making it, they hired him to produce the
wine under their own label. Produced from young vines (which for Ales
means 20+ years), Quattro Mani [toh-kai] is styled to be fresh and
fruit forward, without sacrificing quality.
Quattro Mani Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a ripe and juicy red wine from the Chieti region of Abruzzo, made by famed consulting enologist Attilio Pagli. Robert parker described the wine as "a plump, fruity red perfect for informal drinking....hard to beat for the money." The wine is ruby red with purple hues. On the nose, it is fresh, with aromas of currant, strawberry and raspberry. On the palate the wine is fresh and fruity, well balanced and smooth. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is the name of a grape variety, one of the most confusing and difficult to pronounce of all the world's noble wine grapes. It's confusing because Montepulciano also is the name of a famous wine town in southern Tuscany. The town has no connection to this grape, which is not grown there. Nonetheless, the grape produces some of the best red wines in the region of Abruzzo.
When
the weather gets warm, there's nothing better than a glass of dry
rosé! Good rosés have the depth of a red wine with the crispness of a
white wine. We've been carrying Domaine Sorin Côtes de Provence Rosé Terra Amata
for several vintages, and love its wallop of a nose of freshly picked
strawberries, bracing acidity, fruity core. Sorin is one of the best
producers of Bandol, and although the cépage
of this tank fermented blend of Grenache (40%), Cinsault, Syrah,
Mourvèdre, Carignan, Rolle (Vermentino) and Ugni Blanc is quite
different from Mouvèdre-based Bandol Rosés, the wine's cherry,
watermelon, and cranberry flavors make it a perfect foil for summer-ish
fare like Sushi, Thai, Mexican, Barbecue, Fish and Vegetables.
We've
been bullish on Portugese table wines here in the Bargain Club - and
it's easy to see why: well crafted wines at an even better price.
This month, we present Altano Douro Red from Warre's,
the venerable Port house operated by the Symington family. This wine
comes from the Douro Valley vineyards of Northern Portugal and is
produced from the Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca varietals.
The first provides intense ripe berry flavors and the second, lifted
floral aromas. This sustainably farmed table wine from the Symington
family is a supple, accessible Douro red. It has succulent raspberry
flavor softened up by the sweetness of oak. It's pretty and clean, yet
it still has distinctly schisty tannin to support any grilled meat on
the menu.
Finally, there's Domaine de Coussergues Cabernet Franc,
a perennial favorite here at Farmstead. This gorgeous wine is made
from 100% Cabernet Franc, an unusual grape for the Languedoc region of
France, but Domaine de Coussergues manages to produce a wine of
excellent quality. Very pure, almost crystalline, with black fruit and
good minerality. Drink slightly chilled with chicken and rosemary
roast potatoes or just about anything off the grill. An exceptional
value for spring and summertime drinking! Lush and ripe cherry and
black fruit flavors with a touch of pepper.
Coussergues is an ancient Baronnie founded in 1495 by a land grant
from Charles VIII, is owned by the Baron Arnould de Bertier and his
family. Arnould represents the thirteenth generation of the Sarret de
Coussergues family to run the estate. About 50% of their production is
sold in bulk with 80% of their wine sold to export. Domaine de
Coussergues has been a reliable producer of good value white wine over
the years.
Recipes (provided by Michael Lemaire)
Roast Chicken and Potatoes 2 to 3 servings
I
love roast chicken and make it often. This recipe captures the
delicious juices as they drip down on a pan of potatoes. The quality of
the resulting chicken will depend on the quality of the chicken you buy
so buy the best. This dish will taste good with both white and red, so
decide what you want to try and pop the cork!
2 1/2- to 3-pound chicken, gizzard packet removed (reserve for another use, if desired)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons sweet paprika or chopped thyme leaves (optional)
2 to 4 tablespoons salted or unsalted butter, at room temperature
For the potatoes
5 to 6 medium potatoes, peeled and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices, then precooked (see NOTE)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Leaves from 1 sprig of thyme
1 tablespoon cold salted or unsalted butter, cut into very thin slices (optional; preferably using a mandoline or V-slicer)
For
the chicken: If necessary, slightly lower the middle oven rack so the
chicken will be situated in the middle of the oven as it roasts;
preheat to 425 degrees.
Rinse the chicken and dry with paper
towels inside and outside. Rub it with a generous amount of salt and
pepper on the inside and outside, plus paprika, if using. Rub with the
butter. If you want a more attractive result, use kitchen twine to
truss (tie together) the legs.
Rub a little butter or canola oil on a roasting rack; place the bird on it.
Prepare
the potatoes: Season the partially cooked potatoes lightly with salt
and pepper and place them in a small or medium ovenproof baking dish,
arranging the thyme leaves between the slices. Place the slices of
butter over the potatoes, if desired.
When ready to roast, place
the roasting rack with the chicken directly on the middle oven rack,
with the potatoes positioned directly below to catch the chicken's
juices, making sure there is enough headspace so the heat is not
blocked from circulating under the bird.
Roast for 50 to 60
minutes, looking through the oven window to make sure the chicken does
not burn. Test for doneness by piercing the bird where the leg is at
its thickest. If the juices run clear, the chicken is done. If they are
still pinkish, roast for 10 minutes and check again. If the potatoes
are turning dry or becoming too brown, cover loosely with aluminum foil.
Let
the chicken rest for 15 minutes before serving. Carve the chicken and
divide the pieces, along with the potatoes, among individual plates. If
using the thyme, season just before serving. Serve hot.
NOTE:
Precook the sliced potatoes by placing them in a large saute pan; cover
with water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat; cook for 10 to 15
minutes; they will not be cooked through. Transfer to a small or medium
ovenproof casserole dish.
Lamb and Ricotta Crespelle with Tomato and Pecorino Serves 6
Here
is a great recipe from Nat Appleman at A16 who just brought home a
James Beard award. While this recipe does take some advance planning
and time to cook, it is actually really easy and does not require any
tricky techniques. Plus it yields a meal worthy of the Italian
grandmother we all wish we had! Enjoy this dish with a ripe red wine
such as the Montepulciano in this month's selection.
Crespelle
- 2 cups whole milk
- 1-1/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
- 4 eggs, lightly beaten
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Lamb-Ricotta Filling
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 sprig rosemary, leaves picked and coarsely chopped
- 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 2 pounds lamb shanks
- Kosher salt
- 1 cup water
- 1 pound (about 2 cups) fresh ricotta, drained if very moist
- Leaves from 2 sprigs mint, torn into pieces 1/4 teaspoon dried chile flakes
Lamb Sauce
- 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 2 cloves garlic, smashed with the side of a knife
- 1/4 teaspoon dried chile flakes
- 1/3 cup dry white wine
- 1 (28-ounce) can San Marzano tomatoes with juices
- Block of aged pecorino for grating
- Extra virgin olive oil for finishing
To make the batter for the crespelle, in a bowl, whisk together
the milk, flour, eggs, butter, and salt until well combined. Strain
through a fine-mesh strainer, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
To
make the filling, in a small bowl, combine the garlic, rosemary, and
olive oil. Place the lamb shanks in a shallow dish, season them with
about 2 teaspoons salt, and thencoat them with the olive oil mixture.
Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Preheat the oven to 250°F.
Transfer
the shanks to a roasting pan or Dutch oven and pour in the water.
Cover, transfer the pot to the oven, and roast for about 4 hours, or
until the meat is completely tender and beginning to fall off the bone.
Remove
the pot from the oven. Place a colander over a bowl, and transfer the
shanks to the colander to rest. Let the braising liquid rest in the pot
for 30 minutes to allow the fat to rise to the surface. Skim off most
of the fat with a large spoon. Taste the liquid for seasoning and add
salt if needed. Stir in any liquid that has drained from the resting
shanks, and set the braising liquid aside. You should have about 1 cup.
Once
the meat is cool enough to handle, pull away the meat from the bones
and shred it into bite-sized pieces with your fingers. In a bowl,
combine the lamb, ricotta, mint, and chile flakes and mix well. Set the
filling aside.
To make each crespella, heat an 8-inch nonstick saute pan or crepe
pan over medium heat. Brush the pan with butter, then ladle about 1/4
cup of the batter into the pan. Swirl the batter in the pan until
evenly distributed. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the bottom is
golden and the top is almost dry. Using a spatula and a flick of the
wrist, flip the crespella carefully and cook for 30 seconds on the
second side, or until the bottom is lightly browned. Slide the
crespella onto a plate and repeat until all of the batter has been
used, brushing the pan with butter as needed and stacking the crespella
as you work. You should have 16 to 20 crespella.
To make the
lamb sauce, heat the olive oil in a pot over medium heat. Add the
garlic and chile flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3
minutes, or until the garlic softens and starts to turn golden. Remove
from the heat and gradually pour in the wine. Return to the stove,
increase the heat to medium-high, and reduce for 3 minutes, or until
the wine has evaporated. Add the braising liquid and cook for about 3
minutes more, or until reduced by three-fourths.
Meanwhile,
place the canned tomatoes and their juices in a bowl and crush with
your hands or the back of a wooden spoon. Once the sauce has reduced,
stir in the tomatoes and bring the sauce to a boil. Remove from the
heat and reserve.
To assemble the crespella, lay a crespella
flat on a work surface. Spread 1/3 cup of the filling horizontally
along the center, fold the edge of the crespella closest to you over
the filling, and then roll it up, securing the filling firmly inside.
Place the crespella, seam side down, in the roasting pan. Repeat until
all of the crespella have been filled.
Place the pan in the oven
and heat the crespella, rotating the pan front to back after a couple
of minutes, for about 5 minutes, or until evenly browned.
Meanwhile,
reheat the sauce until hot. When the crespella are ready, remove them
from the oven. To serve, spoon the sauce into warmed bowls, dividing it
evenly, and place the crespella on top. Grate pecorino over the top of
each serving, and then drizzle with olive oil to finish. Serve
immediately.
Spaghetti Alla Rosinella (Spaghetti with Shrimp, Squid, and Clams) Serves 4
Here
is a simple dish of spaghetti, seafood, and garlic. This is quick to
prepare and very satisfying. A crisp white wine like the Honker Blanc
or the Friulani would taste good with this dish.
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1 fresh red chili, seeded and finely chopped
- 10 oz fresh clams, scrubbed and rinsed well (see note)
- 2 fresh squid, cleaned and prepared, cut into rings or small squares
- 7-8 oz fresh raw shrimp, peeled and deveined
- 14 oz spaghetti
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped, to serve
Heat the oil in a large pan over medium heat and sweat the garlic
and chili for a few minutes until soft. Tap the clams on the work
surface and discard any that do not close. Add the clams and squid to
the pan with half of the garlic and half of the chili, and continue to
sweat, taking care that the garlic and chili do not burn. As soon as
the clams open (discard any that do not), tip the contents of the pan
onto a plate and set aside. Add the shrimp to the same pan with the
remaining garlic and chili, and saute over medium-high heat for a few
minutes until cooked. Pick the flesh from the clam shells, discard the
shells, and return the flesh to the pan with the squid, garlic, and
chili. (If you prefer, you can keep the clams in their shells for
serving.) Season with salt and a little black pepper, and toss to heat
through.
Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti in a large pan of
slightly salted boiling water until al dente. Drain and add to the
sauce with a tiny amount of the cooking water (just enough to keep the
pasta moist). Stir well, transfer to a large serving bowl or individual
pasta bowls, and sprinkle with lots of chopped parsley. Serve
immediately.
Preparing clams Tap the clams on the work surface
and discard any that do not close. Scrub the clams well under cold
running water to wash away any grit. If you are not using farmed clams,
you may need to purge them of sand or grit, but a good scrub on the
outside and proper rinsing should do the trick. Otherwise, put the
clams in a large bowl of salted water, making sure they are well
covered (but do not cover the bowl). Soak in the refrigerator for a
couple of hours or even overnight - any grit or sand will be left
behind in the bottom of the bowl when you remove the clams. Rinse in
plenty of fresh cold water, then strain the water through a fine cloth
such as muslin or a clean dishcloth. You then pick out your clams and
discard the grit. (Or you could simply rinse under cold running water.)
| < Prev | Next > |
|---|
